Leaderboard

Progress!

pulling the head is a bit of a chore the first time, mostly because you will probably encounter a few frozen fasteners and it's uncomfortable to go into unknown territory, but it's really pretty straightforward. with the right tools and some help it's an afternoon's work for a shade tree mechanic. i resisted until i warped one (plugged up cooling system) then dove in and got it done. you will learn a whole lot pretty quickly and a re-built head (done right) will really wake up your engine. and of course, there's the pride of knowing you did it yourself coupled with the confidence of knowing it's not going to blow up on you...

While my 77' is in for body work (rockers,doglegs,and rear valence), I took the leap and POR15'd the fuel tank, inside and out. I've been wanting to do this for a while now and was inspired by this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/17542-treating-insideoutside-of-gas-tank-with-por15-products-and-removing-evaporation-tank/page-2?hl=tank Before During , After Inside before and after ,

I just love this key and the enjoyment it brings....

Like Chuck said, use a good brand and use a Base/Clear. single stage paint is cool but doesnt look nearly as nice as a base/clear. My 260 is painted with PPG with extra clear coat and im glad it got that extra coat. My 4 year old son (at the time) saw me using a electric buffer and then decided to help by hitting the other side with a wire brush mounted on my drill because to a 4 year old thats the same thing. That buffed right out

Use a good brand like PPG. Base/clear will be better than just urethane but it'll cost more. I painted my 260Z about 10 years ago in single stage urethane Daytona Blue. It's pearl metallic and has held up without any issues. The car's garage kept and not driven much. If cost doesn't matter then go with a good base/clear. Chuck