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Seems like there's a clue in these statements. Engine is cold, driver gets in and starts engine, starts up normally(?), engine is running at normal AAR-controlled high idle RPM, (tachometer still broken so sound-based), driver gets out, engine runs for a certain amount of time (how long?), maybe to a certain engine temperature (how hot?), door is opened, driver gets back in, [undefined things happen (clutch pedal pressed (?), transmission put in to gear (?), clutch released (?)], engine dies. Engine is restarted and runs fine ? (not clear). Add some detail to "before I could press the gas to go" and what happens after it died. Might be something there. Sorry to be so pedantic, just wanted to detail my point.

Jai Has RB, at any time recently, ran good, or at all, below the half tank level? Also, is this the first time you've noticed the fuel loss? IMO the possibility of fire is very low. The fuel loss appears to be on the right side, most tank connections are on that side, hot exhaust is on the left. That said, don't park the car in a closed garage with no air circulation.

The steering wheel on my 280 has seen better days. The foam along the top started to degrade like they all do, and the whole wheel was squishy, especially when hot. I looked into options and finally decided on a wheel from the 90 300ZX. This wheel was used on the first year 90-96 Z (the only year without an air bag) and also on a couple years of 240SX. Why this wheel? Because I wanted something that "looks like it belongs". I didn't want a fancy multi-colored racing style wheel or a small quick turn go-kart wheel. I wanted something that looked "right". "Appropriate." Something that could be mistaken for factory. And as a bonus... It's still a Z wheel: There were several hurdles in getting this thing to fit the old Z, but the biggest challenge is that the spline design is different and the new Z wheel doesn't fit the old Z steering column. I made new hub with correct splines, cut off the original 300ZX hub, and welded on my hub in it's place. Here's the hub I made. Aluminum test piece on left, steel real piece on right: Back of 300ZX / 240 SX wheel: Cut off original hub: Welded my hub on. I'm no welder, but it's secure. Note the two prongs to cancel the turn signals: Bottom line? The results are fantastic! Overall size is almost identical to stock as is the distance from the driver. The leather grip portion is firm and much thicker and meatier than stock which feels much better to me than any of the first gen wheels. Was a lot of work, but I'm very happy with the results.

I used a small floor jack on a creeper under the tail-shaft housing. It helped stabilize & adjust the rear of the trans as it was sliding into place. While the rear of the trans is still down a bit, slip the drive shaft into the trans. Align the drive-shaft with the rear-end flange with one hand and jack the trans up into position with the other hand. Everything will stay in place while installing fasteners.

Been so long for me that I don't have any memorable info to provide, but I can provide moral support. Good luck and hope it goes smoothly!

If you drop the pair in as a unit I hope you have a leveler. I had a heck of a time lifting the tail of the transmission up to the mount without one. Also found that leaving most of the mount bolts, even those in to the block, slightly loose made it easier to get them all started. Once they're all in, tighten them up. I've only done one though.

Hi Chris, I don't know if this is helpful or not, but Don at Design Pro said that there should be a number on the back of the pad that you (or Wilwood) can cross reference and get the information you need. I also found this handy chart on the Wilwood website about their pad compounds you might be able to use as you pick out your next set. You can find it here: http://www.wilwood.com/Pdf/Flyers/fl384.pdf Also, a run-down of all the compounds: http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/Flyers/fl227.pdf Hope it helps!