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I like your theory, Zed Head. The outermost studs, at 8mm, are probably just a bit too small to withstand the bending cycles. The factory's field fix (re-tap for a 9mm stud) suggests that they were thinking along these lines too (note that the 9mm replacement stud would have reduced the longitudinal clearance for the stud within the manifold mounting hole -- which suggests that it's not an issue of actual stud/manifold contact). This kind of fatigue failure is based on number of cycles (assuming that the bending load falls slightly short of causing instant fracture), so a lot of L24's may have the original front and rear studs still intact but well on their way. It may be that the rear stud is found sheared off more frequently than the front one because the rear stud also mounts not only the engine slinger plate but also the coolant rear transfer pipe. It's the latter item that probably got messed with the most (during attempts to replace perished coolant hoses), leading to the 'uh-oh' moment when just a bit of wrench force on the nut snaps off the already-weakened stud. Interesting that Nissan never up-sized these studs from 8mm to 9mm over the full 240-260-280 production series. Maybe the engines had to get up over the typical ownership period (say, 60 to 70 thousand miles) before the studs saw enough thermal-load cycles to start breaking off.

Interested in the carbs. zip 01886. Can you please message me with a price.

Charley Browns' Christmas Z will have a home. HLS30 39360 originally an automatic trans, now a rolling chassis. Rust damage; rear hatch sill plate and supporting body, floors, spare tire well is not rusted thru judging by the pond in it. frame rails, Missing items; console, heater core, rear plastic panels, trans., tail lights, right fender & head light & trans. Hatch was opened with an axe. I have a spare. He has a 2.8 that came out of it (E88 on a N42) and the orig. 4 screw round tops with E41 manifold and balance tube. The owner is selling these separately if anyone is interested. The body sheet metal is in pretty good shape as is the glass. Vert. defroster. The car has no title and at first he didn't want to talk about anything except parts and they had to pull them for me. Said the car could not be sold whole. I made a list of parts that I might want, and we determined that per E-Bay prices we were looking at around $1,000.00. He knew that was out of the question and his chances of moving the small parts were slim. He said it was too bad I didn't have a dismantler's license so he could sell me the whole car. I asked if he could do it if he was sure the car was dismantled by me? THEN, he asks would I might be interested in it if he took the vin #s off it. Evidently, as long as he's sure the car will never be titled again, he can stretch the rules and sell it to me. He offered it to me for $500.00. SOLD I'm making arrangements to bring it home before New Years. I'll be cleaning it out and assessing the parts and body and their usability. I really don't know what I'm going to do with it yet. The body really is not much worse than the 260 I'm working on now. And there is still that hypothetical question, posed above, rolling thru my mind. I'm open to opinions.

a little progress this past week. we had a cold front move in, so its a bit hard to get motivated when i can only get the shop up to about 55* battery tray area fixed and sealed seam sealer applied epoxy sealed