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Great work Sweaty! Thank you for all the details and the pictures. It is builds like these that keep us all motivated on our own projects.

Yes, exhaust manifold nuts are crimp nuts. Nylon inserts would melt. Regardless, Crimp nuts are a one time use only and Nyloc's really should be used only once... but you can usually get away with one re-use ( Nyloc's )... in non- critical areas. High Strength Loctite + new Lock nuts = peace of mind Edit: Jet nuts is an Aviation term. They are a high grade alloy crimp nut:

All four hoses to the can removes the "positive" pressure differential that causes the crankcase gases to be purged. Air could flow directly through the can to the PCV valve without going through the crankcase. The crankcase would be dead air. The ports are separated and placed to cause the "positive" part of PCV. The PCV system has some fine details. Looking at the diagram you can see that a stuck open PCV valve can also cause a leak past the throttle body. Could cause a high idle problem. I'll have to remember that one. I've wondered also why there are so many different PCV valves, all with the same threads and from factor. There must be some fine tuning of the springs inside. Your engine will probably run fine. Just might gunk up the oil sooner than normal. We could probably have a whole thread on PCV systems.

When you do finally get to the wiring harness give yourself lots of time, 2days to week depending on how much work it needs. Lay it out on the floor in the shape it normally is when it's installed. You will want to remove all the wrap so you can check for burn throughs, nicks, previous modifications and connectors that need replacing. I found it very helpful after removing the wrap to bracket with a tie wrap on either side of the harness where a wiring lead left the main harness. You don't need to pull them tight but just enough to mark location where the wires come out so when you are recovering the harness you end up with the same length of wire coming out at the right spot. There is nothing worse then doing a perfect wrapping job, go to install the harness and find it doesn't fit. Then you have do a cut and patch job on the spot or redo all of your work again. You will be amazed at how much crap can get inside that wrap after 30-40 yrs and it is not uncommon to find 5-6 wires melted together with only microns of plastic insulating them from each other. If part of a 16 gauge wire needs replacing I like to pull the entire length and replace it with 14 ga., same with the lighting harness, I have found it a good practice to up size all of those wires. Also, before doing the final wrap I have found it useful to add an additional 4-5 wires into the harness that will run from the engine bay into the cab and a few from the cab to the back of the car. Clearly mark them as dormant wires so when in the future you want to add some electrical thingy your wires are already there waiting and you won't have to have jerry-rigged looking wires poking out running across the engine bay. Chris

headlight surrounds (fiberglass) repaired and epoxied. they both had several cracks and the lh side mounting holes were broken.

Messed with the MN 47 head today. It was more of experimenting on my head named "warpy", for it's .030 warpage. This is my flow bench head and practice porting head. I also wanted to remove the liners to see what's under there. I am curious if there is any usefulness for removing them and how much work was it. I can say that the liners are in there pretty damn well. It took me about an hour to just get one out. I was trying to be somewhat careful as not to damage valve seat or guide or any surface. The liners leave behind a lot of work if you are trying to make the port flow. Sharp edges and raised areas for supporting the liner shells. I don't see myself trying to use this head without liners, but I will try and make one port flow without them. I also wanted to use this head to develop a tapered sanding drum to making porting easier. I have a FI intake in the works that has rather larger ports -37mm- at the head, so I will need to open up a head to use it.