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True. But it's easer to type O-ring than "square-sectioned circular rubber gasket", lol.

Yes they are complete, lock grommets, fuzzy strip and new spring clips.

Be careful using abrasives to clean the needles. If any of the original material is removed it will affect the fuel/air mixture. If the needle is bent replace it. They are not hard to get. The symptoms reported indicate a problem with the damper (pot) at the top of the carb, not the needle. Focus on one issue at a time and do what you can to isolate the various components in the system to determine which part is at fault. For example, remove the pots and see how the vacuum piston moves. If it move freely then the needle and nozzle are ok. Next, add the pot if the vacuum piston now sticks the problem is with the pot or the bore it rides in (in the vacuum piston). If there is still doubt about the culprit, remove the nozzle and/or the needle and check the piston operation again with only the pot. Divide and conquer.

My ,still improving method, for re-bending a nice radius in the floor pans. I used a 1 7/8" hinge collar from a Bulldog Hinge. (Available at you local chain link fence co. They usually have old ones in their supplies) It is little more than a 1/8" x 2 1/2" piece of sheet metal bent into a U shape (1" ID radius) with long legs. They're very bend resistant. I cut about every 3", (as described by Patcon) flattened any mislocated bends 3" at a time, clamped the hinge collar to the inside of the floor pan in the proper location and rolled and beat the panel to conform to the collar using the clamp handle for leverage. It actually worked quite well but next time I'm going to heat the radius area first. The goal is to roll a radius into the floor pan 3" at a time without all the beating. Heat would make it a lot faster and safer than a BMFH.

Regardless of what is used, grease the heck out of it! I even sprayed silicon lubricant into the cable housing. The Piano wire seems to be more flexible than lawnmower cable, so it'll pull/push smoother.

I received the cover and finally completed installation last night after repairing my original console. I'm quite please with the results.

Thank you sir, her royal highness Aminatu Zazzau will send her agent around to collect the car. Please feel free to cash the cheque for $100,000 pounds sterling, take what you think is a fair price for the car and return the rest with the agent, we trust you.

Only the best fur! BTW- I recent read a book (Runways & Races) detailing a cooperative in the early 1950s between Gen, LeMay/Air Force and the SCCA to have sportscar racing at air bases. Since many appear to be in less need of use, maybe they can get the races going again, but without the scandal they had. It's a shame not to put those mile-long runways to a good use.

Sorry if I didn't make a complete enough description. I really need to make a thread with pictures to show this technique. Maybe in my spare time on the next floor board project..

psdenno, March is still there with tankers and mostly USAFRES. I watched many a Buff on final from Norton AFB. I rotated back to Langley from Rhein Main in the fall of 74. The fuel crisis in Germany and America scared the crap outa' me. So I bought a new econocar, a Vega wagon. Boy was I wrong. No gas mileage outa that rust bucket, heck the engine was toast before the payment book. The thing is I saw my first up close look at a Z car in the squadron parking lot, a 260 Z. There are probably still drool marks in that parking lot 42 years later. The thing that still grates me is a new Z car then was less than $1000 bucks more. I was offered half of the Vega's purchase price on a new Z car. I wasn't able to endure a loss like that. not on AF pay, so I suffered for years with the Vega. I bought my first Z car in 84, a 82 280ZX Turbo, held onto that for 10 years. I still smile about those days!

If you were referring to Wheee's post referring to an O-ringed rail, the Pallnet rail can be either the barbed (stock) or O-ring style to mate to the fuel rail. The new injectors will come with the seals for the intake manifold.

A couple days ago I asked if anyone had a picture of how they dressed when their Z was new. That started me searching to see if I had any from 1971. Here's a picture of what a well dressed new Z owner (me) wore in November of 1971in Northern Wisconsin. I was an Air Force 1st Lieutenant fresh back from living in the Philippines for a year and a half while keeping the world safe from Communism. Be sure to check out the white leather sheepskin lined jacket I had picked up in India while traveling around Asia. Also note the grey cashmere turtleneck sweater. I was cooler than the snow I was standing in. Dennis

Oh yeah, I've dropped them too. Now I place a rag with a small hole on the cowl and set the piston on it with the needle protruding thru the rag and into one of the cowl slots. The piston sits securely on the rag and the needle is protected from my clumsiness. To be sure the needle isn't the problem, blacken the needle with a Sharpie pen and slide the piston up and down. If there is contact, the black ink will be scraped off revealing the brass contact point. This will also work for locating interference between the piston and chamber. The choke is activated when the handle is pulled into the up position. At the carbs., the choke cables pull the fuel nozzles down. This temporarily boosts the amount of fuel in the mixture. Virtually the same action as dropping the nozzles down with the adjustment screws.