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Got a message the other day of someone selling some black leather 350z seats and I couldn't say no. Well I could of, but the price was great. Being they had red stitching kind of sealed the deal- lol. they are power heated seats so I will have wiring to do plus some fab work. Looking forward to having some more flexibility and comfort in my ride. I guess there will be some 1st gen seats on the market soon! well I would have posted a pic but the upload keeps failing

Years ago i saw these in a 240z rallycar.. bought these, they will look great and work very well in my red 240z with black interior.. when my 280 is done i will find time to put then in.. i think.... They are German made KöNIG seats, they make seats for all kind of cars,trucks anything that drives and needs seats! The with is good, they will fit and most important I fit with my 6 ft 3" or as we say 1,94 mtr These do have sliders, no sliders means not streetlegal over here! (Sorry for the dusty picture at that time i just had a new sealing..)

Sorry, been travelling and I limit my internet usage while driving. Okay, let's start with some basic info: What Bad Dog Parts labels as 240 front rails (a poor choice on my part) start 9-inches in front of the firewall, cover about a bit more than a 1/3 of the TC rod box are and end where the stock rails ended. They are made from 13 gauge steel and are 2to 3 times thicker than stock rails. They can be used over existing stock rails or as stand-alone replacements and are sold as singles or as a set. The optional rear 240 rails were designed for folks who wanted a stiffer unibody, had increased the HP or autocrossed/raced their Zs. These are butt welded to the aforementioned front rails and welded on the member cross member running in front of the rear wheel well. I showed them to Mr. Matsuo and his reaction was to slap his head, tell me they could have made these for $2.00 and gave me a pat on the back and a smile. They are sold in sets only. To complete the circle so to speak we recommend a front triangular strut tower bar and a roll bar to hold the rear strut towers in place. The 280 frame rails (the word front is not needed here) also are made from the same gauge steel and start around the same 9-inches in front of the firewall and end where the stock rails do. They are made as a complete replacement or as a cap over an existing rail. Sold in pairs and as a single piece. I would hazard a guesstimate and say that about a dozen people have bought and made modifications to allow the use of our 240 optional rears with the 280 rails (most I believe had installed LS/LT/RB motors). Both the 240 and 280 rails are compatible with replacement floors sold by Zeddfindings. My street and 240 race car have Charlie's floors installed. Bad Dog recommends that if your car will be kept stock and you need floor pans then get the best that's out there - Charlie's floors and his rails. If you need something stronger for whatever application then contact us and if you need something even stronger then you should search HybridZ.org for the means via box tubing welded half in and half under the floor pans that will allow you to build a bullet-proof subframe for really, really high HP Zs.

Yeah it's not like i've been not doing anything on the car lately but im corrently working on what is probably the most complicated assembly on the car and it needs a lot of time to figure out how to handle the adventerous electronis design of the Niles Electric company from 45 years ago. As you might know I'm a senior electronics engineer in my daily job so it's kinda fun and i want to do it right. However it's a bit tricky to get such an weird and oldschool design "right". So it needs time. But let's start with something else: Last week i loaded the hatch into my car: Brought it over to R-performance so they can add new studs to the rear spoiler and he asked for the wing so he can align the studs to the holes in the hatch. Good idea This time they were busy preparing the full-carbon bodied K24 Turbo Integra for the coming time-attack season. This car is serious business! What really gave me headaches was the turn signal switch. After days of trying different things i finally brought of the switch knob from the turn signal arm and was able to disassemble everything: Here you can see how the (what the manual calls) Dimmer switch works. Contact open: Contact closed (the wire is short circuited to the turn signal arm which is mounted to the body, so basically it's connected to ground once the button is pushed): Of course i broke the plastic knob while attempting to removing it. either i manage to remove one of the other two i have without braking it or i will need to have one 3D-printed for me since nothing is available.. I decided to exchange the old and brittly cable whilte at it so today i took two of the switches to my office and soldered in new wires. Before: After. Tried two wires with different stiffnes so i can see which one works better. You can see the original wires on the right side. That's it. next step is getting a good turn signal switch knob and assemble everything back together since everything is clean and all the contacts nice now

FWIW, it looks like even his replacement rails are thicker, and fit over the existing ones. That would stiffen things up over stock.

W Jute is a natural plant based fiber. Although you have called it carpet, what you show in the photos is the carpet PAD, not the carpet. Your car, your choice about what you want to put UNDER your carpet. Dennis

Vintage Appliance brand "Fine Wires" in 14x6 (Real wire wheels) Stock early hubcaps (aka "D" hubcaps) Vintage Appliance brand "Wire Mags" in 14x6