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Hey everyone, Just wanted to take time to share what I have been working on lately and tell the story behind the project. Long story short, I bought this Z around the same time I met my soon to be wife. I'm a huge Nissan/Datsun fan to begin with and I have always loved the early S30s. When I hired on at my current job, one of the guys figured out I was a Z fan. He told me that a guy he knew was selling a 1970 240Z and asked if I would be interested. I was blessed enough to have hired on with a sign on bonus that happened to be sitting in my bank account. At the time that money was going to be used for a dry sump system for my other project (S13 240SX w/ VK56DE and 370Z 6 speed). I could not pass this up. I went to go look at the car. It looked great, but wasn't perfect, but pretty darn good for a 1970 Japanese vehicle. It ran well and drove well, but would get hot. Work picked up and life happened and it sat patiently waiting for me to take care of it. My fiance and I both love the car and after I proposed I got to thinking. The wedding is really more for the bride than the groom. You do things like go to bridal shows and they try to convince you that $30 per plate of finger food is a good deal and that 8 hours in a barn with no air conditioning is worth $10,000. You taste cake, you talk to food venders, dj's, videographers, photographers, "do we need a photo booth?", is 300 people too much?, and worry about burlap and lace. You want her to be happy but stay reasonable for the day. In the end you sort through all the wedding propaganda and find the real deals that you both want for a realistic price... but in the end, this is all a means to the end of pleasing the woman you love on your special day. I'm fine with the lace and pretty things, but I'm a car guy at heart. I have a few cool cars, but the coolest by far is this Z. I have to leave my own mark on this wedding some how. And that's when it hit me. I'm going to make the Z our getaway car! So, here is the car: Went to a local car show. The gas cap was broken off, I have since fixed that: Had a shop for a while: And a local road near by: The group: My garage at the time: Then we moved to our current house: And that got us to where we started working on the car to get it ready. Because the car would over heat, I decided to go ahead and replace/update the entire cooling system. So out came the dash, the old heater core, the old radiator, t-stat, t-stat housing and hoses and in with the new. Also I wanted to upgrade to a newer electronic distributor so I tracked down a local guy that had a 280ZX sitting around and got his tach and distributor and distributor base off him. Through the help of this lovely forum, I was able to find out that the distributor was bad and wound up ordering a reman that will be here this coming week. I also went with an MSD blaster 2 coil. The wheels and tires are coming off of my drift car. They have had a rough life and needed some tlc. I searched high and low for a local wheel refurbisher to no avail. The plan was to make the blue wheels match the gold ones and fix some lip damage. No one local could do it. So since I don't have a lathe I can't fix the lip damage but I can strip the paint and polish the lip. The wheels were profiles from sand blasting, but after a few hours of stripping, sanding and polishing, the paint is gone and the lips are almost a mirror. I have ordered the paint to match the others. Some paint stripper and 2 stages of sanding: Fully sanded and polished: Then I took a minute to get a brake from the polishing compound fumes to see how well the car will clean up, so I did some polishing on the nose of the car: Things are coming along! TLDNR: This is going to be our getaway car at our wedding! Neat, huh?

Oh man, if you could be there... That would be awesome!! Here's my "map" so far. I put real addresses on it this time to help avoid some of the blind leading the blind issues you and I had last time!

Set float levels first or you'll be chasing your tail with anything else you do to compensate for them. Carbs want to be tuned in a specific order from gross adjustment to fine.

Sheets of mass loaded vinyl backed with closed-cell foam has worked really well for me. It's obviously not original, so if that's a concern, then it's maybe not a great option. But it cuts road noise way down, won't hold water, and does a decent job blocking heat. Also, it isn't attached to the floor pans, so it can all be removed in under a minute.

Haha! I showed the map to my wife and told here that it was going to be a tough challenge. It works out to about two stops per day. She reminded me "don't forget... it's a rental car". I'm going to do what I can, but if I'm traveling alone, I just might not be able to hit them all. Man's got to know his limitations.

Haha! Actually this is my first time in the Orlando area when a trip to one of the major theme parks is NOT on the agenda. I've got my "map" all made up like the one we used in Memphis. That'll take some time, but there will be time to do other stuff too!

494 Cliff! You can do it!

Thanks! Learn sumpin new everyday!

When I first bought my 280 my mechanic bent those arms on the tps trying to get the stumble out. He'd twist the throttle rod and look then bend it some. Turns out it was the coolant sensor. I put a potentiometer in line and it runs great now. Fwiw

Good news, tried again and I got one of the spare injectors to spray on the car; The initially bad one would only drip fuel, no spray. So I swapped it with one of the spares, and it sprayed, so I buttoned it all up and ran it, and the injector now passes the "screwdriver stethoscope" test, clicks just like the others. I think the cleaning probably helped, possibly applying 9v may have applied enough magnetic force to un-stick the spare injector. (It was not working properly on the first try either). So I suppose, in summary, what I've learned is: -9 v won't necessarily fry an injector (but it could). I only touched the connection to make it pulse though, not a constant hook up. -the screwdriver stethoscope is a great method to verify if the injector is or is not working -both pins on the injector should have 12 volts (if good) -the injector should have a resistance of about 3 ohms (if good) -the ferrules on the injectors can be a pain to remove, to replace the hose -if you can get the injector to spray/operate off the car, it should theoretically work on the car, given that other items are in proper working condition (when I did the 9 volt, I wan't able to exert 36 psi of force, so I only got a stream out of the injectors. But that is enough to verify no clogging.) However, just because it operates off the car doesn't mean it will operate CORRECTLY on the car. ie) fuel spray pattern, etc... Also, my car seems to shake less through the chassis, so the bad cylinder may have been contributing to this issue (maybe not engine mounts) I will be monitoring this cylinder's plug, as well as checking the injector via the stethoscope test as I go, making sure it KEEPS working.... I do not seem to have the missing/surging issue at higher RPMs right now, likely due to getting this injector to fire as well as adjusting the TVS to only contact at idle and very close to WOT. I may need to adjust again. Both of the TVS that I have seem to initially touch the WOT contact way too early, and one had never been opened, which I found odd. I do hear a change when I unplug the TVS at idle, so it is operating (enriching the idle mixture). Thanks, hope this comes in handy for those facing similar issues. -