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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/28/2016 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    You are right on Charles.....and if you want a totally fun and reliable street car that runs on pump gas, more H.P. Is not always better. However, I really want another shot at Eiji....therefore I'm going to build something to go back and try to even the score....therefore the stroker crank!
  2. 1 point
    ......and you'll absolutely love the result. But remember ......the P79 head must be shaved and shimmed to get to 9.3 to 1. You might be able to bolt an N42 head on top and get the same result, but I've only done it with the shaved and shimmed P79.
  3. 1 point
    I'm betting your answer will be in here: https://www.google.com/search?q=speedometer+cable+seal+site%3Aclassiczcars.com&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8 From last month:
  4. 1 point
    Sorry Matthew, I haven't read through this thread yet, but just got your PM. Let me start by saying that I've done basically two L28 builds. Two with L24 crankshafts and rods and two with L28 crankshafts and rods. All four engines have the F54 blocks bored .040 over with Nissan or LTM P79 flat top pistons and SU's....none have headers. All four engines have P79 heads (same head as P90 head except P79 has liners) shaved .080 then shimmed up (valve springs and towers) .080 to keep chain height and geometry straight. The engines with the L28 cranks (to the best I've been able to determine) give you close to 10:1 compression ratio.....the L24 crank and rods will give you about 9.3:1 compression ratio. If you don't shave and shim the P 90 head, you're shooting yourself in the foot IMO. The N 42 head would probably be a better choice (I've never used the N42 head, so can't comment on engine knock.....mine have "0" knock....ever) because of the higher CR, but the P79 and P 90 is a more modern combustion chamber. All four engines use Isky reground Stage III cams (I wouldn't use anything less....they are fantastic) and valve springs. The rockers will geometry correctly using between .150 and .180 inch valve lash pads. These engines are very quick (not brutal), and very streetable and a blast to drive. Not sure which is my favorite, but the L28 crank is done at 5500 rpms (as far as power) and the L24 seems to go another 1000 rpms to max power (by the seat of the pants not yet dynoed the L24 crank engines). Both push 170 hp at the wheels (200 hp at the crank). These set ups were recommended to me by my Z expert friend the Z Doc who is no longer with us, but I always consulted with him (He built the heads, I built the rest). I don't have any other experience with Datsun modded engines although I think I might build a stroker engine since I recently acquired a diesel crank (If I do, I'll be seeking advice from someone on this forum who can help me with that build). If either of these engines interest you, I can certainly help you with your build, and will answer any questions you may have. Both engines are awesome......I love each equally. Good Luck and let me know if I can help. BTW ....if you want to hear that engine, go to my profile....go to topics and check the youtube video in "Me and Eiji head to head". He turned a 14.30 quarter mile and mine was 14.85 (he had 100 more hp) Guy
  5. Poly transmits a lot more vibration then rubber does, when installed in the suspension some of that vibration is soaked up by the drivers seat foam, but on the steering wheel it transmits directly to the hands which can get tiresome and irritating on long drives. For sure the steering will feel crisper in turns with poly but it is a trade off. I installed a solid nylon coupler and it lasted one season before I replaced it with OEM rubber, much nicer on the arms.
  6. What... You didn't like Nissan's version of a Rubic's cube?
  7. Fewer Jims. Hmmm. Likely a good thing. I confuse easily. Mind you if I just say "Jim" the chances of someone answering is as good as it was before. Oh well.... For example, I'm bringing a white Nissan, but I can't remember which one I decided on...
  8. Just texted the guy again. If it's available I am going to pick it up
  9. 1 point
    People are asking about the rust because he is only showing a little bit here and there, I'll bet there is a LOT more. With all the fiberglass on the rockers and rear end is impossible to tell what is solid or not, also there is no frame on these cars regardless of what he says, it's all connected. Be careful when you go look at it, check the doglegs thoroughly. The engine is basically worthless for resale, you can't give away 2.4L engines and the 5 spd tranny is worth about $300 so no, the engine and tranny aren't worth what he is asking for the whole car. If you go see the car maybe take some pics of the areas that he isn't showing, we would love to see them, good luck. Oh, and welcome to the forum, lots of good info and people here. Chris
  10. New Parts for Sale: Door Panels, Center Consoles, Fuse Box Covers and Custom Parts on request! Introducing a range of interior parts for the 240 Z. See Attached Pictures. Our parts are constructed of vacuum infused laminates of carbon fiber and UV resistant epoxy for long lasting clarity and durability. These parts are scratch and stain resistant and will not crack or delaminate like the OEM versions. Guaranteed to fit on OEM mounts and last the life of your car. Door panels are offered as Half or Full Height versions, with the Half versions intended for use with the OEM panel metal top portion in cars with "two tone" interiors. Weights: Half Height Panel: 1 lb 3 oz each (4 lbs 3 oz OEM) Full Height Panel: 1 lb 9 oz each (4 lbs 3 oz OEM) Center Console: 13 oz ( ~4 lbs OEM) Fuse Box Cover: <1oz. We strive to bring customers modern and quality interiors for their classic Z cars. Please contact Colin at colinfpalm@gmail.com or through our website: http://www.palmcomposites.com/#!shop/c1jgi Palm Composites, LLC Pulaski, NY
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