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Some pictures from last week roadtrip with some of my good friends, perfect weather on spectacular roads.

Arne approves....

Obviously you like the post as you seemed to have thoroughly scrutinized it? I have done similar posts for rebuilding SU carbs, tuning webers, moving the guts of tachs, FSM's and many more. It is for two reasons I do this: 1. To help others. 2. To give the site more content to attract more business for Mike. The photo of your car is great because it clearly shows the spot weld locations. There is valuable information in all of the photos I posted to help anyone restoring or repairing an early Z. I even noticed the early J seat belt hook in one... I was looking for this part a few days ago. I can not vet every part in every picture. Please do not respond to posts I start unless there is something positive or useful in your content.

Mike.....You should have used the function on the thread you just nixed!

OK, got the steel wheels and hubcaps on. Time for a small photo shoot

One of our largest national car parts supplier in Canada is Canadian Tire. I needed new front wheel bearings for #249 so I checked them out... "National Bearing" Made in China. I tried a local supplier and requested Timken. They could only obtain SKF:. Part # 18864 Inner Seal (Taiwan) Part BR2 (LM11949 / LM11910) Outer Bearing and Race (Japan) Par BR6 VP Inner Bearing and Race (Brazil)

I just wanted to let you know that I've added some extra emoticons to the list. If you want to put some into your messages, feel free to use these new graphics. You can find a complete list by clicking on the in the message box editor.

Mr. K?

Blue, you are correct in your assumption...they are the originals

Here you go!

I'm so sorry for your loss. My '73 is insured with Hagerty for $18K, 90,000 original miles. Her insurance co. will fight you hard for their money. They will try to undervalue it so be prepared to lawyer up. Get hold of your insurance co., too. You are going to be doing battle with her insurance co. FWIW, my son is a trial lawyer in Boulder. He owns a '77 Porsche SC and he would be worth a call. He loves to do battle with insurance companies. PM me and I'll give you his info. BTW, I've been thinking about selling my car. If you are interested let me know. Perhaps we can work something out. Cheers, Mike

Hey, I just realized that you own Arne's old car. Glad to see you joined the club and that the car is alive and doing well. Looks like that was a great trip. Marty

A few hours on the frame rack and that could be roughed out and ready for a new/used quarter. Even at home i've pulled out some pretty kinked up quarters with my homemade I-beam and 20 ton ram. I have seen people go to extremes to not show any collision damage but if he's willing to put up with a few bumps and waves in the floor then by all means its fixable with just a quarter panel and tail lite panel replacement.

There's usually a solution. For this problem, here is one: https://web.archive.org/web/20160324012712/http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/

I am surprised this is still available especially with all the extra parts you have. I bet you could get more than your asking price through Bring a Trailer or Ebay.

JIM, This looks great. I am still uncertain on what to use to replace the original jute material. I would like your advice before buying any materials that may serve as: Sound barrier Heat reflection moisture absorber which i believe is the purpose of the JUTE PADDING: http://www.stockinteriors.com/jute.asp?Itemid=4794 Your opinión on this will surely guide me making a final decisión on what to buy. Looking forward to your assesment!

Look at the trade-offs of purchasing a new OE-type insulator pad vs. making one up yourself. The OE product has pretty high density plus all the correct cutouts for all the mounting points and thru-wall connections. A couple of cautions on bubble-foil: it will break down over time and it will easily crush anywhere a light pressure is applied. If you want to go the insulated foil route, look into closed-cell polyethylene foam with foil backing available in 1/4" thickness. It does not crush or breakdown, has a good R-factor and decibel reduction factor. I used this on the entire floorpan of my car AND the firewall before putting my original firewall pad back in - it was still in very good shape. I can provide a link for the foil if you have an interest. For a DIY pad, consider 1/2" high-density foam sheeting from a hobby or upholstery shop sandwiched between a foil coating. Or possibly 2-3 layers of the poly-foil I mentioned above glued together with a spray adhesive. Jim