Leaderboard

Has anyone seen these , are they speaker enclosures?

I usually removed my fan. No heat issues with the tripple core radiator on mine.

Problem resolved! I disconnected the fuel line from the gas tank and nothing came out of the pickup nipple. I'm thinking there's no way this is all due to fuel below pickup level. I go buy a 5 gallon fuel jug and put it all in the tank. My guess is I now have 8 gallons inside. I remove the valve cover and work the rocker arm until I start hearing a squishing sound. I put the valve cover back on and turn the key-its starts. Five days of chasing my tail. Thank you everyone for the help and input.

Mr. DeMille, I'm ready for my closeup now... How can you resist not taking this puppy home?

Started the diff swap! R200 3:9 going out, R180 3:9 Subaru STI going in.

Late last fall, I had some discretionary cash and purchased a front Wilwood brake upgrade kit from Silvermine. Also a 15/16" master cylinder upgrade to compensate for the larger calipers. I knew I had an issue with a slightly warped rotor which was my main reason leading to the front brake refresh. The install went relatively smoothly, replaced the wheel bearings & races with Timken's while I was in there, and refreshed the hubs. Tried to modify & retain the original dust shields, but they interfere with the new, larger vented rotors so will have to get some new ones made up from aluminum or stainless as I don't like running without them on a street driven car. Two issues I ran into with this kit were .... Silvermine states you use the stock caliper bolts to mount the machined adapters - you cannot. The stock bolts are too long by 9mm and the non-threaded part of the bolt would prevent you from tightening the bolt to the adapter & spindle ears. To Silvermine's credit, I called Edan & he offered to send me some replacement bolts if I could give him the measurements. I opted to source them from Fastnal. The correct bolt is M12 x 1.25 x 30mm grade 10.9 (part number 11114852) The stock bolts are 39mm in length and even if you could thread them in all the way, they would contact the Wilwood calipers. The stock lock washers work fine with the new bolts. The supplied bolts for the caliper to bracket are of course fine. The second problem was centering the calipers on the rotors. In my case the inboard pad was tight against the rotor & a measurment showed centering to be about .030" off. (I could not turn the rotors with everything tightened to spec) No shim provision is included in the kit. Rather than roasting the new rotors on one side, I decided to center the calipers. Shimming can be done to either the caliper ears & bracket or the spindle ears & bracket depending on which direction is needed to center the caliper. I aquired some thin SS washers and installed them on the caliper ears and both sides were correctly centered. Bled the brakes, checked for leaks, and enjoyed the firm pedal, smooth stopping power, and extra bling of the new brakes. I did this about 12 days ago and after 150 miles, all is well. A nice upgrade. Stock vs Required bolt Caliper adapters installed with correct bolt Centering caliper (don't drink that Coors light, it was an empty to hold waste bleed fluid)

I was doing some searching on exhausts and all this time I thought I had an ANSA setup but I think Im pretty sure I have the Clifford/Datsun Competition(?) exhaust setup. One of the glasspacks broke off and I thought Id work on changing the sound since its VERY raspy. Here are some pics of the exhaust on a car I believe has 55k original miles