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WTF ! They are never finished - just a pause in the refinement process !! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I joined the rear bumper purchase team also. That plus my NOS JDM front will allow me to swap out from my painted set. Full set of pedal pads for $4.50, L/R taillight gaskets for $6 each. Crazy good prices on many items.

Moelk, yeah I love my subaru diff especially with LSD makes a big difference you can really feel. It is a street build that will see occasional track day duty. I write a build thread on it when I get some time to thoughts together and finish coverage on my website. It is using a lot of parts from Robello's 3ltr kit and then I am self porting and polishing the head, intake and cleaning up the inside of the block.

I don't think it will be the deal your thinking of if they sent you a quote. I got a quote from them a couple of years back for some stuff. They were using UPS at yhe time, and it was way above what I was expecting. Ended up going by a member here. Maybe a member on this forum can be your middleman to close the deal. I have a couple of members do it for me. A big THANK YOU for their efforts. Just going from fedex or ups to usps can make a big difference in shipping costs. Pitty another vendor is stopping. It's bound to happen eventually, just sad to see it.

So here is a picture of the finished product. I guess I'm gonna have to find another project to keep me busy now.

old topic.. nice steering wheel! My problem was it is to thin.. so i took of the "wood" and put on some mahogany with the use of a hand milling machine made me a new wheel... after lots of sanding and 8 coats of lacquer it was beautiful..

Nope! Both wheels are spinning and im impressed buy how well the sti diff work. No noise at all, total silence. And its smooth!! Im no expert and time will tell but i feel like the Suretrac version i choosed is the perfect diff for my car. Hope your machine shop do a good job for you zealous and that you get the parts back in time. Whats the plan for the engine?

Front and Rear 240 Chrome bumpers for $190 each. Wish I was a year or two into my ownership and knew if I wanted new/super clean ones. Tempted to buy them just because it can't ever be a losing investment even if I don't end up using them.

Moelk no single wheel burn out for you anymore I finally dropped of the block, cylinder and head to the machine shop. Hoping to get it back and assemble over the Christmas break.

Sounds like something is stuck or rusty. I am wondering if the head gasket had gone in the past and someone used stop leak etc. If giving it a tap with rubber mallets doesn't loosen you could try lifting it with an engine hoist (if you have one) or ratchet strap from the rafters. Use the last intake stud on the driver side and one of the mechanical fuel pump bolts on the other as lift points.

i have never thought of that. great idea, but i would put a couple of head bolts in just to keep the head from turning into a missile

Put it back together without the head bolts and start it up. That should pop it loose.

PO probably used a head gasket with some sort of sealant that melts when torqued down. Another suggestion to try. Put your breaker bar back in the Intake port and try it again. But this time have an assistant whack the front and sides of the head with a hard Plastic head hammer. The Plastic head should not harm the aluminium , but should shock the head enough to break it free. That usually works for me. Jeff's idea of the 2 X 4 sounds good as does the Plastic Wedge idea, but I've never had a head stuck on that bad. Breaker bar in a Port usually works for me....

Is it just an optical illusion that the passenger side head bolts appear to still be in place? I know you said you removed them, but I swear I see them in the second pic. Edit: Nevermind... I put on my glasses and can now see for sure that they are out. I've had them stick, but never to the extent that I couldn't get it off without a good yank by hand. The front small bolts are usually the culprit, but you said you got them. Try using a 2x4 across the car as a lever arm. Place one end of the board on the RH strut tower top mount nuts and place a very short ratchet strap over the 2x4 with both ends hooked to the front lifting eye. Lift the opposite end of the 2x4 up GENTLY to unstick it.

I seem to still be getting reports from this thread. I would like to point out that this site isn't a true debate site. It is a Z enthusiasts site. Therefore debate should be minimum, and purely factual if it happens. Let's keep it friendly and respectable so we don't chase off potential new members, and current ones. What do you say?