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I was on a road trip with some people from the Z Club Switzerland. It was great! Sent from my iPod touch using Classic Zcar Club mobile

In a sense. On the advice from club members, I bought it from my Dad. Just picked it up from him yesterday. He wept as I drove it away, which is exactly why I bought it. This was his pride and joy from day 1 of ownership in 1974 and wanted him to know it's still in the family.

Installed the Futofab rear sway bar in my white 1970 Z!

Both are good suggestions. Also the actual ignition switch is held on to the back of the lock assembly by 2 small phillips screws, easy to change. Prior to doing that, you can simply unplug it's electrical connector & plug in a replacement switch, then turn the switch with a slot screwdriver to test. Rock Auto has the switch for $17.

Short trip...leafs are falling and soon the snow too : (

Your switch is probably salvageable, the electrical switches in cars from this era actually need to be used to keep them in good order, moving the switch cleans the contact area. If I were in your situation I would clean all the terminals from the headlight itself right back to the switch with special attention to the grounds. There are a few good How To threads in the archives on dismantling the switch and cleaning it, it is also the only way to know how bad the heat damage is. After you get the headlight system working properly again you might want to have a look at the rest of the terminals, grounds and switches in the rest of the car, they have had the same lack of use so probably have the same amount of oxidation on them.

@jfa.series1, here's your PDF in an image so you can view it in the forum

Both the inner and outer hatch seals are far easier to replace with the hatch off. And if you're doing one seal , do both! If you decide to so, its best to remove the hatch from the hinge and leave the hinge attached to the body. The body attach points are where all the adjustments take place. If your hatch aligns well with the body, don't futz with the body mount. With a new inner seal be ready for push-back (literally) when you close the hatch - it takes a while for the seal to relax. A slight adjustment up to the striker loop on the hatch lock is usually called for and you can adjust it down over time.

The fuel rail does not have a return. It has three barb fittings for each carb. See the picture attached as an example. Madkaw, $60 for all 3