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Haha, I have my fair share of UH OH's such as the one pictured below. The first set of Interior rocker panels I made which were for my car, you can see in the picture below that the bottom of it has a bow. Though it has a bow in it, Everything still aligned up, the only fitment issue I had was with my floor pans, had to put a curve in it at the flange end that gets welded to the rocker panel in this area. Oh well I guess, part of learning. Was working on making a set of 240z Interior rocker panels yesterday and finished tonight for Charlie at Zedd Findings. You can see in the pictures below, that the bottom of it is straight like its supposed too, unlike the one pictured above. Before painted comparison picture. After a light coat of Rust preventative Weldable Primer.

I think he made a wise decision...that is a $15K car in my opinion. I was waiting for the bidding war to begin once I saw the pics.

Holy mollie $34K for a modded 280! I'm going to paint BRE stripes on my white 71 resto and raise the asking price!

Regarding the two line-three line issue, the third line is just a vent for the expansion chamber (hope I got the right name for it) that goes to the flow guide valve; don't see how it would make a difference. Regarding the "three reasons" for "percolation", in the modification manual that was posted, reason 1 makes sense, the other two seem a little iffy. However, that information applies to the flat top carbs used in '73 and '74. I'm not familiar with how those carbs work so maybe it's correct for them. My fuel pressure gauge (hooked to a tee between the mechanical pump and the custom fuel rail) seems to back up the percolation thing. On hot days, a few minutes after shutting off the engine, I've noticed the fuel pressure climbing slowly, past the usual 3.9 psi, to about 5 psi or higher. Then it drops suddenly. If heated gas vaporized and built up enough pressure to open the float valve, like the book says, that could explain it. I've also smelled gas after a hot start. If the float bowl is full when I shut off the engine, and the percolation effect pushes more gas in, that would explain it. My fuel rail is more isolated from the engine than the stock one, but maybe not enough. It seems like having a return line (I don't) would help the situation, but maybe not. Maybe no fuel return line would raise fuel pressure slightly, that might help prevent vapor lock (not percolation). Also, they already had return lines on the cars discussed in the modification manual, so apparently that didn't solve the problem. If the main cause of heat in the fuel lines is due to conduction from the bolted attachments to the engine, then it seems like insulating the lines would help keep the heat in.

Hi guys, gals! I'm still kicking as well and drop in every so often to see what's shakin in the Z world. Thanks for thinking of me Jeff, I am doing great but did downsize my car and motorcycle interests. I sold my Z and my massive Z parts stash and my Z library to our buddy Brian (think he has 5 Zs now). I still have my touring Harley, Model A coupe hotrod and a new minivan and that's enough to keep me busy. I know that our shared love for Zs, means that another could come along at any time though. I have often wondered what became of many former active members and appreciated being notified of this thread. Keep on enjoying the ride! Ron.