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The thread title focuses on air filters but the question text says fuel filter and I want to answer on behalf of all air filters, world wide, and registered to vote. Air filters are a necessary part of the intake and fuel / air mixture process. Not only do they filter out grit and moisture, they cover the intake throat and keep big things from really screwing up your engine. In my opinion, you will never be able to determine if your fuel mixture is correct if you don't test the system as it will be operational, i.e. WITH the air filter installed (a clean one is preferred).

Hello new member here, wanted to introduce myself and document my new z project I have had a 77 280z race car for 5 or so years, I have raced it in SCCA club racing and it has been the best race car I have ever had. I really really enjoyed the car. the only problem has been I want something to drive on the street and enjoy more often I have been looking for a good project car for a bit and I finally pulled the trigger in September found this on craigslist looked ok in the pictures so I drove 5 hours and bought it , paid 2k probably a it too much but hey.. 1) the plan when I first got it, I was going to tear into it and start restoring it right away. on further thought I am going to get it running and driving upgrade and enjoy it as a beater/ rat rod and "restore" it later 2) rust assessment first I inspected it for rust . when I looked at it before buying the rust seemed like a really mixed bag, no rust in lots of typical areas but seemingly bad rust in others. no rear hatch rust, nothing in the rear quarters,no front frame rail rust, very little bit of bubbling in the rockers, one lower front fender was bad but the other was very good. and only the drivers side pan was rusted, but it was pretty bad. both doors have quite a bit of bubbling along the lower edge , luckily I have probably have 5 doors sitting behind the shop 3) mechanical assessment not so worried about the mechanics truthfully, as I have so many spares from my race car that I could re-build the engine and only buy a few things. shocks that did not work out as good, old sway bars etc,etc. I think at last count I had 7-8 heads on the shelf ! engine ran , but it bogged so bad on application of throttle you could barely move the car ! clutch and gearbox worked okay brakes kinda hinted they might slow the car, but it was only a hint.... the left rear strut was either broken or so loose from the mount that it flopped around with a huge thud when you got on and off the gas ! and the drivers seat frame was broken, so it was like trying to drive sitting on a stool ! attached are pics of the car, and for fun one of my race car

This 1972 Datsun 240z has 150k miles and was purchased new by the seller from Forrest Datsun in Redwood City, California. The car retains its factory paint and body panels, and benefits from an extensive mechanical refurbishment performed in 2001. Work included a full rebuild of the 2.4L inline-six, rebuilt SU carburetors, new fuel pump, replacement of many cooling system parts, reseal of the 4-speed manual transmission with a new clutch, and refreshment of braking and suspension components. Modifications include 14″ mesh wheels, aftermarket mirrors and exhaust, front and rear bumper over-riders, and a period stereo upgrade. The car has been garage-kept in Washington for nearly 30 years and has been driven sparingly, with approximately 1k miles placed on it since the work was performed. This 240Z is sold with a clear Washington title in the seller’s name. The car wears its original Red (110) paintwork that is close in color to the more popular 918 Orange often seen on early Zs, though it exhibits a darker hue when viewed in different lighting conditions. The finish retains a clean, well-preserved appearance, benefiting from frequent waxings and the avoidance of inclement weather throughout its life. The car has remained free of accidents with imperfections said to be limited to a few small door dings as well as a small development of rust along the driver-side rocker sill that can be seen in detail in the photo gallery below. The exterior remains stock apart from the installation of period side mirrors, front and rear bumper over-riders, and a set of 14″ mesh wheels fitted with newer Bridestone Potenza rubber. Lenses remain clear and crack free, and the chrome trim retains good shine and proper fitment. The exterior rubber trim shows equally well remaining well-preserved and free of any excessive fading. Apart from a new carpet kit and the reupholstering of the driver’s seat, the original interior shows quite well for its age and mileage. Though the seller notes the new driver’s upholstery is not an exact match, new material for the passenger seat is included in the sale. The original dash remains free of cracking and interior alterations are limited to the aforementioned carpet and upholstery, as well as the installation of a period cassette player and leather steering wheel wrap. Though the gauges remain fully operational, several accessories are noted by the seller as non-functional including the rear window defogger, windshield washer, overhead dome light, clock, rear hatch key lock, and the heater, which the seller describes as not producing any flow through the heater lines and will require further diagnosis. The rear hatch area remains tidy, retaining its original trim panels and accompanied by new carpeting for the hatch floor. The quilted vinyl surfacing along the rear shock towers, wheel well, and transmission tunnel remain free of any scuffing or rips and show well in the provided images. A removal of the carpets reveal the original floor pans that remain solid and dry. A thorough mechanical refurbishment was carried out in 2001 that included a rebuild of the original 2.4L L24 inline-six to stock specifications, as well as some other mechanical work listed below. Rebuilt SU carburetors New clutch including master and slave cylinders New brake master and rear wheel cylinders New radiator, water pump, and hoses New ignition components New engine mounts, steering rack, and sway bar bushings New transmission front and rear seals New tie rods and ball joints Rebuilt front brake calipers Following the refresh, the car has been driven just a few times a year with approximately 1k miles accumulated since 2001. The seller notes the car starts and drives well, exhibiting good driving, handling and stopping qualities. Assorted photographs provided by the seller shows a well-preserved underside with solid front frame rails and clean mechanical components. With its original owner status, well-preserved cosmetics, and sorted mechanicals, this 240 makes a desirable choice for Z ownership and is ready to be enjoyed by its new owner. View it on bringatrailer.com

Thanks guys for the comments. Hehe yeah I suspect a lot of you are older than me, I am 28 years old. Goal is to get this car finished before I turn 30, will only happen if I stop being lazy. Once I get all the body work finished and some more of the custom fab work completed for the LS1 swap, everything else will go fairly quickly hopefully. Yeah hopefully Charlie will like the panels I made for him. he wont get them till next Monday. I will go with a different color than the factory lime green (I think thats the original color name). Had some friends here locally tell me to keep it same color, but I am just not feeling it. As of right now, I have no idea what color I will want. Small update to show. Just glad the interior is all finished. Now to work on the rear of the car. Filled in any rusted holes and sanded down on these parts pictured below. Coated those parts I sandblasted for the seat belt mechanisms. Parts welded on. Gonna hold off on welding the tie in plates for the seat belt mechanism housing (not sure what their called) because I have plans to make some jack support braces later on. The rear jack stand points will be in this area somewhere. Havent planned it out yet in details but will. Besides the tie in plates dont fit that great for some reason, most likely since everything I made wasnt an exact OE fit in order for the seat belt mechanism housing tie plates to fit perfectly. Finally welded in all those holes shut and sanded down from when I removed the original transmission tunnel mounts. Had to make my own and move them back a little ways for the T56 magnum trans for the LS1. Well thats it for the interior, at least for now anyways. Rear Tabco quater panel replacements. Though before I work on that, I want to get the front camber plates installed. Took me forever to figure out where I had placed them in this mess. Found them.. Get alignments made for when its time to weld the camber plates. Wanted to make sure first that the fire wall was same distance on each side, I just choose two points on the front end of the car. Marks measured and scribed. Rough mock up to see how it looks. Thats it for now, stay tuned!

Yup! One of the tests was providing me another grandson on October 7th! He's a good father and fellow car enthusiast. He bought an old Skyline GTR for his first car (which he promptly wrote off).... now he drives a minivan..... He is also a professional welder. That helps too...

My eyes. 8^( I asked if he had plugged the coolant line through the carbs and he responded "yes" in those 7 pages. I'm trying to participate whether they like it or not. and doing the best I can. We're all learning and contributing that will help us all, IMHO. Participation a two way street Jalex.