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I bought my used 71 240Z in 73 for $4,300 and still own it today.[attachment=81385:IMG_0192. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

So I am in the process of rebuilding my first engine and will post various pics and questions here. Mileage at the time of purchase is unknown. I believe it was ordered and shipped from Japan recently. I have already installed the 5 speed transmission in my Z and it works well. Here are a few from getting it in the garage. Assistant is inspecting the situation... Plugs seem to indicate fairly good mixture? Dissassembly is coming along. OFF WITH HER HEAD!!

Thank you, Namerow. Since the screen installation isn't documented well, I suppose I should also follow with the cleaning method I used. Its not rocket science but what the heck... When parts aren't available we need anything to save a few bucks and share what we learn. Note: The Factory Repair Manual provides neither a torque value for the retaining screws nor a method to clean the screen. First, the screws holding the baffle in place should be hard to remove. The screw heads accept a #3 Philips drive tip and a little gentle persuasion with a hammer and impact driver gets them out easily but Go easy with the hammer! On one of our engines these screws were also covered in an epoxy for a bit of extra security but I'm not certain that is needed if the screws are installed correctly. Second comes the cleaning. NOTE: The wire wrapped around the folded wire-mesh may be bonded to the screen with something like JB Weld epoxy, or it may be micro-welded - I've seen both methods. The micro-welded part does not come apart easily without damaging the wire-mesh, so a new part should be considered if available. If the wire mesh has never been removed from a high-mileage engine, expect the screen material to be covered in a baked on hard varnish. For me, the best way to get this off is a very long soak in carburetor cleaner. Drop the screen in the cleaner and forget it for a week. I lucked out and have the screen that used epoxy. When it comes out of the cleaner the bond should be loose enough to separate the wire from the mesh. That's a good thing because you can now unfold the wire-mesh and really inspect it for damage and debris. Rinse the mesh in hot soapy water then rinse it again with a spray carburetor or brake cleaner. Next, re-fold the mesh into its original shape making sure that the folded screen retains the original shape and fits into the cavity properly. Use JB Weld to rebond the retaining wire around the mesh and let the JB Weld cure. The threaded holes for the retaining baffle, as well as the screws themselves, must be clean and dry before installing the screws. I clean the hols with a rifle cleaning brush when I clean the block but, if you're not doing a rebuild that requires machine shop work, the threads can be cleaned with spray carb or brake cleaner. When the breather baffle-retainer goes back into the block, apply Red Lock-tite to the screw threads and torque them securely.

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Won't you take me to..... Welcome aboard!

My grandmother, to whom I owe my right foot driving style, believed that wrestling wasn't staged (this is late 1950s) and was thrown out of the local arena after hitting one of the pro-wrestlers over the head with a folding chair when he landed in the front row. I can remember his exact words as he looked at his hand with a small amount of blood on it - "Lady! Don't you know this isn't real!!". Those sales tips are ancient and at the same time correct, at least for the period in question. There was no formal training for car salesmen back then just what worked yesterday just might work today.

Few more pics.

Already contacted and going to their next club meeting! Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

The old cars like the older plugs best, that is what they were designed & engineered for. Platinum is mostly marketing hype. Oreily's can usually order then & have them in 3 or 4 hours.