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Another thought is to cut the pins down all together and replace with threaded metal studs. This way you could use a lock washer and nut to hold them on. I did something similar to this with my Datsun script emblem. See link below. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49682-diy-datsun-script-emblem-repair-refurbishment/

Well, I should call this a 'lack of progress thread' huh? But today, I made progress. In my defense, I am only driving out of California once every two weeks. In order to pick up the finished engine, I have to stay an extra day as Dave Rebello is closed by the time I am leaving. The weather has been horrible for driving back over the mountain. On one trip, it took me 42 hours from the time I left work until I got home, including 7 hours sitting still waiting for the avalanche crew to knock down a threat. Today was the day though. I left work last night and checked in to a hotel in Concord just 15 miles from Rebello. Got up this morning and went to Antioch for the big pick up. She's still in the back of the truck until I put her on the stand tomorrow. I'm excited to get started!

They are the cloth braided. The lines on the carbs, as I recollect, were as pictured with all of the other hoses being the cloth braided lines. I have found the NOS cloth braided vent lines for the fuel tank. The seller of the large diameter vent hose claims that it is the last NOS in existance. I don't know if that is true, I doubth it, but I paid like it was. The rest of the, non-preformed lines at the tank will be replaced with the cloth braded line I ordered and clamped with restored original wire clamps. I will also replace the rubber hoses on the right side of the engine with the braided fuel line. The car in the photo has more emissions equipment than my 72 had when purchased. JLP

Jerry, are the fuel hoses you have ordered wrapped with braided cloth? Or are they more like this picture (fuel rail to front carb)? Some of the fuel hoses on my series 1 car look like the one in this pictured here , when you look close they have a cloth wrapped (not braided) texture that seams to be rubberized as well. They don't have the glossy smooth finish like modern hoses.

Odd that new bushings don't fit snugly. In the early 1970s, when Datsun dealerships with parts departments were a little harder to find, a common fix for a loose bushing was to slip a piece of bicycle inner tube between the worn rubber bushing and the metal clamping collar that secured it. Shadetree maintenance at its best! Dennis

If you've already done this, then ignore. I would fill up the radiator until you can visibly see coolant at the top of the hole. Perhaps even run the engine as you are adding coolant. Once you know for sure it is full put the radiator cap back on. Get a flashlight if needed and check everywhere for leaks. The upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostat housing, water pump area, and the hoses that run from the radiator along the passenger side into that obnoxious 3 way thermo splitter before going into the cab to the heater core. If you can't see any leaks, turn it off and check for coolant in the oil. Sent from my N9130 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

yeah i was thinking about that too , to pin point exactly where it was steaming it was from the cool reservoir , the lttle hose that connects to the top of it was steaming and lately it was been over filled , it used to be a little bit less than the full line and after that day it was steaming its been at 1 - 1 1/2 inch above that line so the reservoir does have more coolant then its supposed to have and sorry if im just trowing info these are all observations ive just noticed like in the past hour and im hoping to god its not a head gasket that would ruin me financially

It looks like the car started running hot so you replaced the thermostat. Otherwise I would say pull it out and boil it in a pot on the stove and observe it opening. It sounds like this all started before the new thermostat. Maybe boil it anyway just to verify it isn't defective just to rule out a faulty thermostat and troubleshoot from there.. Sent from my N9130 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Furman, that will make your wallet lighter! Furman's in a really nice area

I just had a headergasm.

The headers came back from High Tech Coating today, they use the same ceramic coating that Jet Hot does. Now I have to figure out a way to install them without banging, scraping or scuffing them,

That's my gut feeling too. @gwri8 Previously you said that RedBird shut down as if the key was turned off. No stutter or misfiring from the engine. When it restarted did it run fine? @Redwing Is there any regularity in the dying. I'm thinking that it's occurred often enough that you may be getting a feel for when it will happen? Does it ALWAYS occur when the engine is warm? Or when it's been raining?

Lance's advice works. It's the same as my father instructed me 30 years ago. Advance the timing untill it pings under acceleration, then retard it untill it will only ping if you bog the engine down in high gear. I've been using this rule on cars where the scale just doesn't seem right. I have my Roadster club guys over from time to time for my help with tune ups. Every so often a car will pop up that WILL NOT RUN with normal timing adjustments, which leads me to believe something wasn't set up right during an engine re-build. Using my Dad's formula for these "hard cases" has worked so far. Garret, if your car isn't pinging like crazy with the total advance "well over" 35 degrees BDTC, I say the scale was funky. Find you self a hill, advance the timing till it starts to ping, then retard it till it stops. Old fashion? Yep. Hard to track your adjustments? Yep. Works? Yep.