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Hello fellow classic Z enthusiasts across the globe, Many of you probably have heard about my story with the 80 Nissan Fairlady Z I had for 30 years that burned up while at Jim's Body Shop in Pasadena, Maryland. Well, I found a new Nissan Fairlady Z to make memories with! I bought the yellow Nissan Fairlady Z that sooooo many had questions about. The Fairlady Z is titled as a 1969 in Pennsylvania, which will remain the same in Maryland as I register the car as the third owner. I will be taking the Fairlady Z down to Virginia to see the original owner who purchased the car new in Misawa, Japan. The original owner has some unique items to give me for the Fairlady Z. Some wondered about the fender flares, they were installed by Aomori Prefecture Nissan in 1970. This Fairlady Z has a very unique story, which I will share more in time. I am looking forward to the old Nissan slogan Enjoy the Ride! I know very very rare, but here it goes...Does anyone have a Nissan 2000 valve cover? Series I non vented pillar emblems? I have the stock mirrors to put on and then I am ready for East Coast Z Nationals in Carlisle, PA 19-21 May. Cheers, Kirk Towner "Love cars, love people, love life." - Yukata Katayama, "Father of the Z Car" (1909 - 2015) AKA Mr. K

Sorry, I don't get it. How could he have "...purchased the car new late 1969..." when it was built after July/August 1970?

There's no "mystery" here, unless we include the mystery as to why certain people won't listen to established fact and common sense. The car in question was built after one of my own cars, which was built in mid/late 1970. Nissan Shatai's own records - quoted by me in one of the previous posts on this thread - tell us what S30-prefixed chassis numbers were built on 1969 and 1970. This is a 1970 build-dated car and a mid to late 1970 build date at that. "Stone throwing"? Get a grip.

I think I still like the looks of the old original Zs the best (whatever year that lime green one is on the trailer – 240Z?). As for the Mustang II, although they improved some handling issues with it, the Mustang community in general doesn’t really consider it a real Mustang. I think it was originally an upgraded Pinto but somebody slipped it in as a Mustang and the budget department rushed it through on a Superbowl weekend before anyone realized what had happened …… or something like that. There are hundreds of explanations including that an AMC Matador humped a Falcon. I’ll keep checking here to see if anyone bites.

Driven on the left side of the road, but Fairlady Zs have Right Hand Drive (RHD) steering.

I blew the fuse that runs the dash lights, tail lights, side marker lights. After I turned the dash light dimmer switch, replaced the fuse. All was fine for a while, but then it happened again. Now as SOON as I replace the fuse it blows. What may be causing this? This is in a 1976 280z Could it be the dimmer switch?

Hey, decided to post my car build in case anyone is ever googling and just so i could document it and archive it for myself. I'm going to start with my sound system install but i'll back track with other stuff maybe sometime later this week.

I have a friend in our club with a 2000 Valve Cover. It's on an engine on a stand in our Z hoard (below). I'll ask this weekend.

I hadn't seen that thread yet, thanks! The choke X 4 theory means I need to go back to the 145 mains that came with my carbs and can keep my 185 air corrector most likely. For all I know the settings he had above were for 38 chokes since it was for a race car. Gives me a good spot to start!

That degree of improvement is very impressive. What insulation did you use? I'd like to see a few pics of the finished shield.

Well guys it sold to a really nice guy in Dallas. you might see him on here soon as i am giving him the link to this site. who knows maybe i will be back someday with another "Z" i do love them.

When you do find a replacement. replace the top bolts with short studs. No more problems with seized bolts. The studs are " standard hardware " items from any Japanese car parts dept. You just gotta find a Partsman that doesn't have to ask you... what you and model is that for. That can be the tricky part.

Love your Mustang. Loks clean and neatly done. I would only have to hint it to the wife and she would be down at the car yard trading the Zed in for a mustang. She doesn't realy like the Zeds. I can't understand why. Either car, I would still be in the garage playing with it.

I rescind the ebay link, My mistake only because it is from California Datsun, I wasn't paying attention to the seller. Many people have a very strong opinion about doing business there. Personally, I've never bought from that guy but I heard from a few that have. Keep looking though, they're out there.

I got back on here just to check up on your build. It's coming along great! Fantastic work. I was too scared to do the finish work myself, but you're making it look easy! haha

You and me be the junkyard dawgs! I've been working some S30's and S130's at a local yard. Several Z31's there also but they're a bit beyond my knowledge set as to what is good to pick and refurbish.

The first car I ever restored was a 1966 Mustang coupe, midnight blue, lost my shirt when I sold it but it was fun.

Msa's out of stock, unavailable. Don't hold your breathe waiting on me but I was going to hit my junkyard and get some small stuff, those thermostat parts too but mainly the engine bay inspection lights. I'll let you know after I go, maybe this week?

Capt'n, I believed you are well seasoned by now...

Your car has always been something I just stop and stare at. Every. Single. Time

I'm using a D800 with a combination of lenses, for the outdoor shots, the open desert one I used a 14mm, the other two outdoor shots I think were with my Sigma 35mm 1.4 but I cropped into those. For all the interior shots I used the 35mm again except for the two pictures where you can see me hold the amp and pioneer, those were taken with my iPhone. The one attached to this comment was with my 80-200 2.8 lens.

It's a safety device. You should leave it as original. It will warn you of pending brake failure. The proprtioning valve was down the back just before the tee. After July 72 it move to the engine bay. You would do better buying one in the link grannyknot supplied. You will need to fine tune it to get the right balance. The OEM won't do that and probably won't even be close to the balance you need. I cleaned mine up a couple of years back.

While all you electrical geniuses are changing terminal ends, pay attention to the corrosion on the strands of wire when you strip the wire insulation. If they aren't shiny copper color (and they rarely are in my experience for any under-hood wiring), then you have to clean the individual strands before re-crimping or you're not gaining much. Might just as well clean the existing terminals. Separate the strands with an exacto knife and scrap them clean or use a good electrical cleaner such as "De-oxit" D series contact cleaner, not just IPA (and I'm not talking hoppie beer either). Vinegar and a rinse works too, just slower.