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Hi Jai, I don't know how I missed this thread so I'm sorry I didn't convey my condolences for Deanna's passing. I lost my Chocolate friend a couple of years ago and miss his unconditional love dearly. They bring out the best in most of us and give us everlasting sweet memories that will always be there to enjoy. Dave

From the RIP DeAnna thread….. "Hello all my friends, I'll start by saying that I'm doing the best I can. Life is lonely here tho. Thanks for all your comments. Redbird is now having some problems and I don't know of where to put my request for help. The other night driving home in the dark my speedometer etc. dials were moving from bright to dim constantly. The headlights also were dim. When I got home the back up lights did not come on at all. Easy get around is to not drive at night. But I'm concerned that somewhere in the vast amount of wiring, something may decide to catch on fire. Not a problem for the moment, my wallet with all important things has disappeared. I last saw it in my purse at church, drove right home, and it is not there now. I did not stop anywhere, no way I could have left it anywhere. Sooo, dear RedBird is going nowhere while I am without a drivers license. No chances!" I went by Jai's to check on Red Bird today. We swapped out her non working tachometer with another that had an unknown history. The new tach didn't work either so that problem is likely caused by something else. As far as the Alternator is concerned with the car sitting at idle, the dash voltmeter reads 14-15. With increased rpm's the voltmeter dances/floats between 13-16. With my Innova 3320 multimeter on the battery with the car off it read 12.95 Engine on 14.2-14.6 With engine and headlights on 13.24 I've never done a voltage drop test before and I tried it on Redbird. With the black to the Battery Neg and the Red to the Alt case at around 1500rpm it read -18 to -22 on my meter. It would not stay still. On the positive side with red to red on the battery and the black to the b+ post on the Alt it read .1 to .4 I did find a loose battery to body ground that was semi loose and cleaned and tightened that. Cleaned the Alternator connections with DeOxit and re-attached with dielectric grease. Checked an retightened the fan belt. Restarted the car and the dash voltmeter read the same as before. Any suggestions from electrical guys for the Tach? And is it time for a new Alternator?

Rescued and refurbished, a L/R set of 240Z windshield washer nozzles. Fresh replating, includes mounting screws. $40 includes shipping within CONUS, payment via PayPal.

Can you go to a local auto parts and have them roll their testing cart out and see if the alternator fails or passes? Advance does that around here for free, battery test load too.

Engine bay clean up A/C holes - welding I already talked a lot about cleaning up the engine bay. Now it was time to actually weld all those for the future unnecessary holes shut! After a lot of research I was able to figure out which holes on the left frame rail where for the vapor fuel line, and weren’t necessary for the future! Also ground down most of the welds, not yet perfectly finished though! And to have a properly clean firewall the holes for the A/C had to go as well! Before: New patches: And welded in! Once again to eager working on the car and forgot to take a picture before I started grinding down the welds!:D Also spot welded from both sides, as I’ve gotten the problem that not all the butt welds fully penetrate and would leave pinholes, this way it’ll look like seamless metal!:) I also think the area where I did not continue the ridge turned out looking pretty factory looking!:) Fully ground down now! Bit too reflective for a proper picture… See you tomorrow and have a great weekend!:)

I suspect the voltage regulator. I had a similar situation. Charging system was over charging. The reason I say overcharging is because mine was all of a sudden nearly reading 15 volts and would never go over 13.25 even at revving the engine when the voltage regulator was working.

79 is a desirable year because it does not have T tops which were introduced the following year. Except for the wheels, appears to be in original condition, including the radio. I would say it's in the 9 to 12K range.

Not that its a true representation of worth, but there's an '81 ZX N/A with 109k miles on it in similar condition on Seattle Craigslist for $8500.

Wanted to say something about safety belts.. I drive my 240z with race harness over 15 years now. We have APK as England has MOT and Germany TUV. They never asked about it.. I have the original belts also installed on the same bolts, sitting behind the seat.. never had to demonstrate them, the technician that does my cars APK has never seen those original belts! My 4 way Harness are from OMP.

Thank you Jerry, that is a very useful advice , when I need it, I will ask you to get them. Your vented disc looks so cool, Jerry. That is why I could not stop myself hitting buy button! Kats

RPM is important for voltage measurements. The FSM lists voltages for engine speed. For the tachometer, there is a resistor in the circuit. It is identified on page BE-3 of the FSM. There is also a ground and 12VDC source. Since the ground and 12VDC source are shared with other instruments, I would guess it's the resistor unless other gauges are acting up. Replacing it will probably require soldering in a new one on the old connector. 2.2Kohm 1 Watt would work. They have them at Frys, Amazon, etc. (Lifetime supply: https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a11101900ux0055-Metal-Resistor-Piece/dp/B015CHKSZW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493437627&sr=8-4&keywords=2.2k+ohm+1+watt+resistor) Without more testing, it's difficult to be sure if it's the alternator or voltage regulator. Rockauto has a closeout on a voltage regulator $12.52 + shipping. Their cheapest alternator is $22.06 +shipping, and that includes the core charge.

I like the wires for the retaining pins. I am going to make up a set for my upgrade. Thanks for the pictures Kats. I found that the DORMAN H36866 Brake hose is the replacement part for the original Nissan hose for use for the MK63 Caliper upgrade. They are less than $10.00 each. Let me know if I can help in any way.

Yup, nothing like exhaust fumes from a 70"s car for that modern house smell… I have a garage under my master bedroom where my Z lives. My wife can smell anything i do to that car, and i mean anything……. I just signed up with Hagerty. Valued @ 15K, $265 for the year. Less that half what State Farm was charging for Liability only when I was re-building.

I would enjoy that...!

Jerry inspired me , obtaining vented calipers. Dimensions are almost same, only the width to the side is different. Shims and springs are missing, I will collect them gradually. Wires for the retaining pin caught my eyes, I think this is for quick replacing when at the track. Nismo features? Kats

EuroDat, Dear one, losing our long time friends is so so hard, I am grieving for you and your family. We are so blessed when these wonderful creatures share our lives, makes it hard to do without their physical companionship. The pain is so intense, even hard to breathe at times. Your great love for her in allowing her to leave her broken body behind is the ultimate gift to Kylie. She knows of this gift, and loves you even more for it. I can only assure you that time will take the sting out of the loss. It never leaves but is manageable. Try to focus on the happy times shared, those memories will live in your heart forever. Thank God. I do believe they are attached to us even from the other side. It may sound crazy, but instances of fleeting motion glimpses may be near you. They do not want to leave us anymore than we don't want them to go. Bless you and your family for giving Kylie such a good loving home. She loves you and is so thankful to have shared her life with you. Sending my love to each of you, Jai

I may have an extra 2000 OHC valver cover. I ended up buying two from Japan for my own 1970 Fairlady Z. Sent from my SM-G935P using Classic Zcar Club mobile

So sorry to hear about Deanna.....we lost Cheyenne 9 years ago....I miss her still.....we bought Millie...another worthless flea bag that we are totally in love with....a shame dogs have such a short life span....I feel your pain.

I love the looks of the Volk TE37V and will be my next set if my current wheels become toast!!? I have a set of altstadt wheels (240ZX photo album) that I bought 2nd hand and made them fit. I've never seen them anywhere online and alway cringe at the thought of damaging them!!!? Anyway....love the Volk!

I have on my stock 76 - 280 205/70/14 and no rubbing at all, I had on the back prior 215/60/14 and no rubbing there.

I'm running Kumho Exsta(sp) 205X55X16 on Konig Graphites and they were reasonably priced tires and give a decent ride with pretty good grip. I got the tires new when I bought some new 16" rims(which in person I hated and sold after 1 week) mounted them on the Konig's which I bought off e-bay for a fair price. I do occasionally get some tire rub on the rear on sharp turns with bumps in the road, just gotta slow down a little.