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Just got back from Jai's. Replaced the Voltage Reg and all is well. Voltmeter is steady, the headlights don't pulse and the turn signals came back. I even got her dome light working. I'm not an electrical kind of guy and probably less of a AC guy. That being said, I checked it by hand and her A/C compressor is not locked up. It does not come on when switched. I did check the connections at the switch and compressor and they looked good. Remember, this is an aftermarket unit that was installed last summer by a local guy. My hair did not get caught in anything. On a side note it seems that RockAuto has changed their shipping method. You could really get hammered by the shipping costs when you ordered multiple items and they all came from "different" warehouses". This time it all seemed to come from one place with no A,B,C,D origins with DHL being the initial carrier.

Updates from the paint shop. I love how clean the lines and gaps are, nicely done.

Recovering from shoulder surgery is sooo boring - what to do? A new shift knob! I've wanted to replace my black rubber pistol grip with a wood knob, but couldn't find anything I liked. I like things a bit unique so I just couldn't go for the standard wood blank. So after digging around online I found an eBay seller who hand made a laminated birch knob with a brass insert - to give it some heft. I hemmed and hawed, but finally plunked down the $100, pretty steep but as an artist myself I appreciate hand crafted over 'manufactured', and am willing to pay more for it. After all, the knob and steering wheel are the centerpiece of any interior, IMO. I'd like to orient the knob in a particular way, to show off the best sides and was thinking of using blue loc-tite to set it where I want it. Any problems with that? Sent from my iRecliner... Here's the suspect:

Got my rota rb and tires mounted, 215/55-16. They fit well with no scraping. Thanks for all the help/guidance in this thread. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

In a pinch, just take the distributor rotor with you. If you have an EFI car just pull the water temp sensor connector. ~ 1 mile of driving max.

I think the 280zx injector cooling blower is the remedy. Anyone differs? ............................................................................................................................................................................................................... Perhaps it's a language problem. I asked a couple questions about troubleshooting and your ability to connect with other Nissan owners in Panama. In your response, you quoted my questions and then answered with a question about an injector cooling blower. WTF! (Spanish translation available upon request). Ya no puedo ayudarte. Dennis

http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/406009-fuel-percolation-3-screws-su-carbs-bowls.html Quote: Originally Posted by princejqman In addition to the stock heat shield which was installed in the car by the Factory originally, i have mounted a Stainless Steel heat shield extension that reaches the bottom of both 3 screws SU Carburetor float bowls. However, the fuel percolation is still present. The gasoline in my country, Panama, has no ethanol so this should not be happening. The heat comes directly from the manifold and thus there must be away of lowering that amount of heat so it does not affect the fuel that is inside the float valves and that will evaporize and consequently shut the engine down. Other owners only throw out ideas such as swapping metal fuel rail with 5 inch rubber hoses or driving with the lid off? Is this really going to help and avoid the car idle becoming lumpy at traffic jams which leads to a sudden shut down of the engine? Wouldnt it be better to find a way to lower the temperature at the stock manifold? How about ceramic coating the stock manifold? It's been fun but I'm done. You have graduated to my Ignore List.

Thanks Site - exactly what I was looking for! I remember you had recently gotten a master cyclinder too and had sent me a pic Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

For a rebuilt auto parts one I used rockauto.com or amazon.com, can't remember which was the lower priced. I do remember having to send a core back though. After that it was right at $100 for the smaller 240 one. You'll need to paint it, it's raw steel out of the box.

Its actually a kidney and part of the liver, but the dash looks great.

That's a mighty fine looking piece. To correctly orient my shifter knob, I used steel washers under the knob until it tightened down to my preferred orientation. Works great.

I happened to have a spare. I'm going to get my old one rebuilt.

Jon and Gina, members of our Z club, same engine builder as for the Green Hornet. To get some perspective on their win for starters they smashed three 911's in their class, all around the same 3+ litres engine capacity, weather was mixed and once there is moisture the 911's turn to water Jon & Gina actually won one stage outright in front of all the modern supercars including the all wheel jivers. Just goes to show that the basic design of the S30 is a world beater still, all this from a mass produced low priced sports car that is rock reliable and durable with no pretensions. Shows up the pretenders eh.

Like FunkyTownZ said, kudos to you for keeping your emotions in check and not going beyond your limit. I know it stings to have one pass you by but in the end you made the right decision. Keep hunting and good luck with your search!

Thanks Jerry, My car is HS30-11861 L24-114120, approximately 3000 gap. I think it is close, there is an article of an interview to Nissan engineers at April 3rd 1972 . Mr.Suitsu said "we make 6000 in April (5500 export, 500 domestic) , this is the first time making sportscar more than 6000 a month..." So, yours and mine would been in a same month? At that time L24 was used for another models, our cars would be closer than engine number gap. Kats

utah, if you start a New Topic, we can help you troubleshoot. It's what we live for, sitting out here staring at out monitors, hoping for problems. Seriously though, if you buy that relay and get it to plug in, that would be good to know. Even if the engine still doesn't run.

Wrapped up a small resto effort today on a rescue part with a successful electrical test. New lens on order from S. Nix.

Not what I did today, but what I'll will be doing tomorrow. Taking HLS30-23305 to Westminster, Co to have my Mikuni's dyno tuned by Jeff Winter, http://rallye-sport.com/. I obtained the Mikuni's from Madkaw this winter and finally got them installed. Now ready to get them tuned by a pro. Looking forward to the drive tomorrow

You should add that info for the us, the novices. Steve's Tech Tips. It was fairly easy until the cabin side. That was a royal pain for me. I'm sure I did it the hard way because it was TOUGH! Anyway I'll never do it again. Now I have more money than sense, which ain't a lot of either.

Check that out!! I'm headed to the garage to pull my dash!! Here's to hoping I've got something like that in mine!! Crap. Just got back... No luck.

Mrs. Dash

Can I just assume you only have one kidney now?

I don't remember where the wiring harness tag is underneath the dash. I think you are going to have to contort to find it. But this action has rewards! For your outstanding diligence in successfully finding the tag or any date marked inscription on your car ( and there are plenty of them ) you earn points acquiring or keeping the sacred Datsun secret handshake. I briefly cruised the archives for discussions we have had in the past about S30 models showing up in North America. Estimates put the number around 30. I know at least one serious collector who has an S30 in his stable along with his gaggle of Vintage Zs and low VINs. The S30 is a rare commodity in North America. Similarly, Kats' HLS30 is quite rare in Japan.