Leaderboard

well that wasn't so bad.. I messed with the adjuster and then just went around with a hammer and they both freed up very easily. Tons of junk came out. Well now its ready to roll and I can't wait for the dumpster to move so I can get it home.. Thanks again for the help. I will post some pics once I get it cleaned up. I found some paperwork and it looks like the mileage is correct at 74,035. He had it worked on I was told by the local nissan dealer in San Luis obispo and I am hoping they share any service history they might have.

Amazon, Amazon, Amazon - bought the fuse holders from Amazon. You need 10 and they have 10. $6.99. I think 1/2 inch long screws that fit through the holes in the fuse holder, washer and nut on the back side. Take photos of the wiring before removing it from the current holders. I popped out all of the holders while still attached to the wires. I took a Dremel wheel to cut through the plastic just wide enough to fit the fuse holders in place. The screw holes should line up with the holes that were left from the original fuse holders. Once all 10 are in place, then you can start soldering wire for wire to the terminals on the new fuse holder. The battery wire is the hardest to do because it has to connect to 3 of the fuse holders. Easiest way is to strip the wire long enough and tin it with solder before soldering to the 3 fuses. When you install the blade fuses you will still be able to use your fuse box cover. If you have serious melting of your current fuse holder, you will need fix that problem as well. Picture of the front side only and the fuse holders from Amazon. Phil Smith

Most tow companies have roll trucks, dollies, and all the gear they need to move that car without damaging it Probably cost less than $100. And you can rent a 15' U-Haul truck for about $60 to move the rest. Sometimes, time and convenience is worth the spending, even if it's only moving a few feet. With the truck blocking the garage entrance you can keep the riff-raff out too.

Three posts and full of useful information. Welcome to the site. Thanks for the link. I've searched Amazon for fuse holders many times and don't recall seeing these puppies.

While cleaning up my transmission for installation I was pondering this. If i drill a new hole where the X is, wouldn't that create a shorter throw. Would it raise the pivot point? What problem might it create? Need help from you engineers. Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Hello everyone. New owner of the #187 here. I don't have to tell you that I haven't received the car, but when I do, I'll go through it and document in detail with pictures so I can pick your collective brains on the best approach to refreshing/restoring this gal. I am a collector, so #187 will be with me for a long time to come. I am not new to owning s30. She will join her 5 siblings: 2 - 1970 Series 1, 1971, and 2-1972. She is a true survivor with some battle scars. However, I've seen worse, much worse.

I've got all that info somewhere... I've also got lots of still pics. I'll post more details shortly. As a side note, completely unrelated to this thread... I don't have any idea what I'm doing on Youtube. Does my other video show up for you guys or do I have to explicitly send out a link? It's comparing my original stock beeper and my replacement pleasant sounding chime: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6iRmpYgjI0 My son asked me about "My channel" and I said "My whaaaat?" He walked away shaking his head and wouldn't answer any of my questions after that .

There's some kind of misunderstanding here... His thought was to move both the hole in the shaft AND put new holes in the ears. This does two things: 1) Changing the position of the hole in the shifter shaft will change the ratio of lengths on each end (and hence the distances traveled) 2) Changing the position of the holes in the ears will keep the shaft tips in the same original "height" position (which should keep the original lower end engaged properly). Unless I'm really missing something, it should work just fine. It shouldn't matter where the fulcrum is located in space... If the ratio of lengths of the levers on the sides changes, so will the distances travelled. A seesaw with one side longer than the other will travel the same distances at the tips whether it's bolted to the ground in Michigan, or Nevada.

I believe you'd have to cut the lower end and weld in a piece to lengthen the shifter.

did you find out how he got the car before it was made?

Very nice work. You realize you have to post wiring diagrams, and part numbers/ year/make/model of the Honda you borrowed the servo's from, don't you?

SteveJ - I think I'll go for a walk. Captain Obvious - You're not fooling anyone, you know.

I once made the mistake of leaving the parking brake on for a long time. Fortunately, I was able to persuade them to cooperate with a firm push on the car. You can download a 72 FSM (71 isn't available) from the link in my signature. That way you'll be armed with information specific to the 240Z brakes. I think there were wheel cylinder changes between 71 & 72, but enough of the information in the manual should be the same.

Pushing the car back and forth will frequently break them loose. You're fortunate the car has been garaged.

Thanks, Phil. The ingenuity here always amazes me. Where there's a will, there's a way... Cheers, mike

Pretty funny ad. Best of luck on the sale. F.A.Q from the Dealer Q: I have a buyer for my rare tricked out caboose once owned by Harry S. Truman with 24k gold walls, whale foreskin seats, and the same floors that are in Trump Tower I am selling. Can we finish the deal when I get the money next week? A: No. Don't bid unless you have the funds ready. Before the close of the sale is a good time to ask your husband, wife, girlfriend, parents, parole officer, Miss Cleo, or your Magic 8 Ball before you commit to buy. Q: Oh, you're just a dealer trying to flip it and make money? A: Yes, we like to make a profit although that is not always the case.

@JLPurcell

I think this is the thread @grannyknot is thinking of:

Thanks so much for the replies.. Im going to try what you guys have said at the end of the day tomorrow. I wish next door didnt mean 75' of dirt, or id just roll it on jacks or wheel dollies.. Ill send an update tomorrow, and will include some pics of the new ride. Thanks again for the help.

Yeah, it was just a mental blip that zoomed through my little head. I'm not a pimp. Really. But I love those louvres, Sean. Nice work, I will follow your refresh on them, as mine jump around too. I have a receipt for them from 1979...$99.00

That plate from art singer for the chokes is fabulous# I put two on my cars.

I was told something similar from a girl I was fooling with. Very many dollars later she still needed testing. Needless to say she FAILED but it was a fun week. She was nuts.

i think pimped out is an understatement

daves not here

As I am going through detailing my 72 I find that I want to find better parts throughout. I fought the hood latch this evening, thank goodness that I had the fenders off and was able to reach through and unbolt the male portion of the hood latch. I am looking for a NOS hood latch mainly the female portion but would also be interested in the male portion if I could find one. If anyone has one or know where one can be purchased let me know. Thanks JLP

Most likely the rear drums are stuck. Spray the heck out of them and bang with a rubber hammer. May have to unhook the ebrake cable? I'd soak them and bang them then try pulling with another vehicle. Be super careful where you tow from, don't use the rear bumper even it still has the strapping hooks. They were for shipping not towing.

Two more pics

REALLY not sure what is happening. Try again: For $12 for a kit consisting of three tiny pieces, I think Motorsport should be providing some instructions. As seen on this forum, we, a number of people who are familiar with Z-car repairs, have all been uncertain as to how this job should be done. How many of those $12 kits are going to remain unused? For now, I'll attach the relevant photos. Thanks again All

Steering wheel is finished！ Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Sweatybetty has a build going where he used a new wire harness, it's pretty sweet: kwikwire.com http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/52787-sweatys-rebuild/?do=findComment&comment=495152 hope that link worked Nice car...!

I do...I'll drop a color layer on tomorrow when I get in to the office. But I'd go with body color. Black air dams, to me, always look like the project is incomplete.

I agree wholeheartedly. The Alamo is smaller than my detached garage. The River Walk is however spectacular! Restaurants making guacamole table side. You will remember that guacamole your whole life. Alamo? Roughly the size of a two car garage. My shop/garage? 2000sf!

Radiator or Engine flush will only improve the heat transfer, it won't hurt anything.

The transmission is from a 78 280z and the head has the larger 280z valves The 3.9 differential is what makes the combination work.

http://www.boosterdeweyexchange.com/ This company rebuilt the booster for my FJ40 restoration. The booster is the one in the earlier post of my FJ40. I restored the case prior to shipping out for rebuild.

http://www.boosterdeweyexchange.com/

I read my receipt from rockauto and I had written on there "total after core, $106. Thats the small one.

Phil, you can't just leave us hanging! Tell us how you did it, please. I would love to be able to do that changeover with modern fuses. Pics, please. Cheers, Mike

Jan, I had exactly the same sound and could not track it down, I rebuilt the transmission and that still didn't solve it. Finally I tracked the sound to the stick shift knob insert vibrating against the shift lever, the hollow space inside the knob amplified the sound and the shift pattern cap acted as a drum skin. I solved it by wrapping the threads with plumbers teflon tape and stuffing the hollow space inside the knob with dense foam. Chris