Leaderboard

Zup uses it to soak up all of the gas that leak out of his flat tops. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Kats, The original throttle shaft bearing design was doomed to wear from day one. And for that matter, all carburetors have a similar problem; the metal of the shaft and the carburetor body is 'soft' metal which will wear excessively with the constant use. I believe that they were designed that way to prevent binding. Throttle shafts machined from a harder alloy with a similar alloy bushing will work just as well as the bearing arrangement that ZTherapy provides. I have even seen throttle shafts plated to compensate for wear. In both cases, either design, I would recommend occasionally oiling the bushing / bearing with some penetrating oil. Your re-builds look fantastic. It is great to see such a delicious set of early carburetors. Engine jewelry!

[attachment Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Try to pull the hood forward until it lines up with the front of the headlight buckets. Those slots on your original hood are not stock, someone elongated them to get the hood to fit and you may have to be duplicated on your new hood, they are for front/back adjustment of the hood.

I used the same size spacers, folded cardboard pieces, on both sides and loosened the bolts at the hood hinges to get it straight. Don't loosen them too much though or you'll fight it all day. Learned that the hard way. Edited. Your's look like a fender alignment issue maybe?

Snacking

Yes.

Are you dreaming of new paint SteveJ?

Here is the leak test procedure I did on mine a couple of years back. It's good to eliminate possible causes. I know you replaced a lot of items, but some of the parts these days are "remanufactured" items and the quality is sometimes lacking. Btw: You can not remanufacture 280Z injectors. All you can do is change external stuff like the inlet filter and hose, and run them on a test unit with special cleaner. Not all aftermarket parts are new parts... Instruction - Fuel Pressure Test 280Z RevB.pdf

The aquablast process should sort of shot peen the surface in a way that makes it hard for oil and grease to repenetrate the surface of the alloy and therefore it should wipe clean again with some degreaser. I had it done on my valve cover (wish it was a 2400 OHC cover) and E31 cylinder head. https://goo.gl/photos/AqiuVue5sXrHGLyq5 Definitely recommended.

Thanks, I remember that now. Every single post in excruciating order, in to infinity. An endless list of topics is what I long for. Just trying to reformat the world the way that I want it to be....

Thanks everyone, I wanted original look but polishing is included in service menue. I just forgot to tell them no-need. Gave, I sent the carbs to Technical Tohto Kanagawa, Japan. I was thinking sending them to ZT to have roller bearings on a shaft. But time and shipphng cost rise its total equal to price in Japan. (88000JPY this time) The shaft does not have roller bearings, they applied bushes and a special made shaft .I think durability is less than that of ZT. http://technicaltohto.jp/carburetorrestoretion/carburetorrestoretion7.htm Kats

Yeh it's slightly wonky due to the front end crash of whatever. The salvage title won't cross over to the UK luckily. He won't go below 7,5 so I guess I'll keep searching I'm happy to buy in any state, as realistically it only makes a few hundred dollars difference. Just got to find one! Guys then you for your contributions. They're helpful and motivating.

could be no fuel as well. Carry a spare plug with you, next time this happens disconnect the center wire from the distributer and attach to the spare plug, lay it on the strut tower screws and see if there is a spark while trying to start. You need to eliminate the variables when dealing with intermittent issues.

Hi Kats, Did you send your SU carbs to Ztherapy in the US for their rebuild? Did they modify them to have the roller bearing on the throttle shafts?

Original---glass bead---glass bead in water (Vapour Blasting)

The Zeds were well represented at the Albany Round the Houses.

Those are very nice, Kats. I do not see very many early carburetors like mine. Here are some solutions to make for etching the shiny aluminum. Use gloves and safety glasses. http://www.metallographic.com/Etchants/Aluminum etchants.htm Etchant Concentration / Mix Conditions Comments Kellers Etch Distilled water Nitric acid Hydrochloric acid Hydrofluoric acid 190 ml 5 ml 3 ml 2 ml 10-30 second immersion Use fresh For most aluminum and aluminum alloys Methanol Hydrochloric acid Nitric acid Hydrofluoric acid 25 ml 25 ml 25 ml 1 drop 10-60 seconds Pure aluminum, aluminum-magnesium, and aluminum-magnesium-silicon alloys Krolls Reagent Distilled water Nitric acid Hydrofluoric acid 92 ml 6 ml 2 ml 15 seconds Aluminum-copper alloys

Would you consider making it a '78 ?