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Couldn't help it, I was bored during the commercials.....

C'mon Euro, you gave in! Now we're just a service, like Google.

Vagueness leads to more vagueness... But it's fun for us. Welcome to the club! The answer is - one still has the crossmember attached.

i thought the flag of france was all white..........

Working on fitting my sliders to this seat I picked up off Craigslist. I would like to try this out as my drivers seat.

I was at @Careless's shop today giving him a hand with the windshield and vinyl trim, thought some of you guys might like to see the progress.

DATSUN 240Z TO THE RESCUE! YOU'RE SAFE NOW LITTLE LADY!!! THANKS Zup! HAPPY 4TH OF JULY TO ALL!!!

Hi all, I am posting this for a fellow member @stanleyp. He sent me a reply today when our club sent him a happy birthday message. It looks like he cannot drive the car anymore and would like to sell it to a club member. Here's some info about the car. It looks like a very well kept, low mileage, S30 in yellow (my favorite color). You can call Stanley at 315-633-2421. I should have more pics from him soon. His listed price is $19,500 OBO. One owner: Original motor with triple Weber's and K&N air filters, High performance Mallory High-Fire distributor, Coil and ignition module, New tires on original Mag rims, New high performance shocks and custom exhaust system, New fuel delivery and return system with high volume "pusher" pump. Engine compression over 180 psig in all six cylinders. Automatic transmission complete overhaul and rebuild, i.e., manually shift thru three gears or let the automatic do it for you. A great classic high power show car. Appraised by NY state appraiser at $25,000. Standard Oil Changes, Garage Kept, Accident Free, Clean, Non-Smoker. Year: 1971 Manufacturer: Datsun Model / Trim: 240Z Condition: Good Location: Kirkville, NY 13082 Mileage: 89,000 miles (143,231 kms) Doors: 2 Engine: 6 Cylinder Transmission: Automatic Exterior: Yellow Interior: Black

Just bend the four little crimps back, a pair of pliers works well, and pry the top off of the plastic base. Work over old newspaper or similar so the rust doesn't get your work bench dirty. Edit - there might be a ground wire connected to the metal cover on one side. I think that's why my picture has the cover just tilted open instead of removed. Post a picture...

The man with the coolest car always gets the woman. My Dad told me that when I was kid and it has proven true. Zup is the man!

It's a 73 Z. Front bumper fillers and bumperette spacing give it away. Strange about the roof skin missing!??!

Top tranny is a F4W71B 4 spedd and the lower is a FS5W71B 5 speed. Can't really tell if the FS5W71B came from a 280Z, 280ZX 2+2 or the later close ratio versions from the 280ZX NA coupe.

Are you on a phone, where you can't see the pictures or download the FSM? It's all there... Tapping is unlikely to help. But good luck anyway, you never know.

I seem to recall a rant emanating from NS last year - something about don't buy cheap Chinese tools. Words come back to haunt? Janet probably has to pay good $ to get nails done like that.

Actually, those three get power from the ignition relay. My car had a mysterious blue wire to the ignition switch in addition to that box of rust. The relay is over by the fuse box. There's a diagram in the FSM, BE chapter. The 280ZX igntion relays will work, they have the same pins, but have an extra dedicated ground pin also, so they get a different part number even though the'll plug right in. Nissan moved the relay to a dry spot behind the glove box in the ZX's, I got a spare from a wrecking yard. I replaced my 76 with a 78 though, that I had from a parts car. Somehow it survived.

Except for the lack of decals on the air cleaner housing, it looks pretty much like the one on my '71. Dennis

I wonder if the specialist company that rebuilds harmonic balancers (I've forgotten the name and location) would be interested in taking this on? Same basic principal. It's pretty clear that a solid urethane bush is not going to produce the same result as a webbed rubber bush. And I don't think the serrated end washers were added by the Nissan engineers just becuase they looked cool.

Those all start at one spot but a tap with a hammer might not be enough...

Up date I found that the hose under the intake going into the crank case was deteriorated and cracked on the inside. I replaced it and it is running a lot better i know this thread is dead but anyone who sees this that was the problem. I wound still like to know if what i talked about in the post above will have an influence. Thank you for every ones help.

Maybe that wasn't a mistake? Young girls like the coking. KIDDING EVERYBODY, THOSE DAYS ARE IN PAST! Pablo is dead.

I think I saw a little beetle in the garden that looked like that. Draw some legs on it.

Mark do you not think if the floats are set and the valves working properly there would be a consistent flow of fuel circulating through the return line function of the fuel system? No fuel staying still long enough to "percolate"? That's my common sense thinking but that usually don't mean squat. Once again I'm done but am trying to help you figure something out. I've got a slab of beef ribs, a bone in ribeye plus two quarter dark meat chickens. 24 frosty bottles of beer and a booty call coming by later, after I do all the coking of course. Girls without kids don't cook but they make up for it in other ways. Hope to post in the morning, if not I'm dead from exhaustion or in jail. I can see it going either way.

Did some engine & engine bay detailing, I'm thinking it's not looking bad for 146,000 miles and engine never been out of the car.

Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Do you have a meter? You can check the specs against factory. I'm guessing that you're on a budget? That's not one of the Rock Auto products for the 260Z. Here are the specs for the 260Z coil and the resistor. Looks like Datsun was shooting for about 1.5 to 2.0 total. I can't find specs for the C-632 out on the internet. Amazon's site says it's not a fit for the 260Z but without specs, who knows.

New brake booster and master cylinder = no more mushy brakes! New engine mounts and tranny mounts = no more car shaking like an earthquake at idle or shifter vibrating during acceleration New rear main seal = no more leaks Oil changed and radiator flushed and new coolant = happy cool engine for the Texas summer New timing crank, alternator belt and distributor set = better ignition and happier engine Vacuum lines replaced = better idle and acceleration Lots of progress this week! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Hey everyone an update on the car. It was last tagged in 2014 so it has not been sitting for to long. The plate in the door jam is missing. I will try to ask the seller if he might have it but I do not think he would have it. I flushed the old gas out and added sea foam to premium which it has been running better the more it runs as well as puttering a new fuel filler in. The fuel pressure was around 38lb is believe. The rotor, cap, and leads all look pretty fresh but the car came with new ones. I have new plugs as well but the ones in the car look pretty new. I already planed on changing all the fluids but have not changed any yet. I tested the AFS by hooking a multi meter to it well it has power and the voltage increased the more it moved counter clock wise. I also want to check the timing on it. I did notice that when I lift the dip stick up that nothing changes in the idle (not when it was surging). I still have not changed the vacuum lines yet, Every thing seems to be not be checked most of the bad line is after the vacuum canister bottle (which is bypassed) and the heater/A.C. controls. Amazon has some regular stuff that around $15 for 50 feet, would that be fine it has a four and a half star rating or should I go a head a buy the silicone stuff for $2 per foot. I also noticed that there was a hose from the radiator to a thing on the intake under the air regulator that looked kinked. I do not know what this is but it might be the problem or part of it cents it seams to happen after the engine heats up.