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decided to start a clean thread. easy stuff remove bell housing and rear tail shaft housing removed shift forks, detent balls and springs snap rings and speedo drive gear and ball that retains it. reverse idler gear. rear counter shaft nut/gear OD gear, needle bearings balk ring. what is giving me problems is the OD sync hub, OD gear bushing. the bushing is not going anywhere. the manual says use a "suitable plate" behind the retainer and press out the main shaft. I am going to have to try and some steel that has a u shape cut out to clear the retainer, I can tap it and us some all rod to attach to the puller on the end of the tail shaft. I may try some brass or alum as I don't want to have steel bear on the syncro slots. they would be the 1st thing the plate sees unless I could fab up a spacer that fits INSIDE The synro hub and the plate could bear on that. maybe even just some washers placed around the hub would work. anyway at a stopping point until I can figure this out. maybe time to buy a plasma cutter and welder to star making jigs.

For anyone who has been on the fence about LEDs: I bought some Sylvania 2357 brake/tail bulbs since they offered 25% more lumens on the hi (brake) setting, but I didn't notice much difference. So I headed to Walmart and picked up the Sylvania ZEVO LED 1157R for $20 (2 bulbs). They advertise a "lifetime warranty" on the package, and they plug right into the stock bulb housing. I've been skeptical of LEDs, even though I like them and the idea, but these are designed differently. They have a shield to reflect the light onto the stock reflector instead of multiple "diodes" (square things). No pics, but I highly recommend these specific bulbs for Z's, at least the 280z. The brightness is at least the same as the 2357, which is supposed to be 40/3 candlepower (or lumens?). The difference between the tail lights and brake is good. Great red color. Also, instant on when you touch the brake. Also cheaper than the superbrightleds.com ones. I think Osram/Sylvania did great with these, realizing that most incandescent housings rely on the reflector. Thought I'd share this. And you don't need any resistors or different flashers for these. I also bought some 67/89 LED bulbs with the clear glass shield from superbrightleds.com for the license plate lights, and they are awesome. Very white light and fit into the stock housing just fine. I actually put a strip of electrical tape on the lenses to lessen their brightness. I'm not sure if I'll do LED's all around, but some wattage savings here and there will help the stock wiring and alternator a great deal. I majored in "Architectural Enginering: Lighting/Electrical in college, so you know I love lighting. https://www.superbrightleds.com/search/led-products/67+led/ ^^Here's a link to the License Plate bulbs I got. Very nice. The stock 280z plate housing shines the light too brightly- the ground behind the car is clearly lit (even with stock bulbs). As mentioned, 2 strips of electrical tape can reduce this.

I can relate to you. Im in the Folsom area and I do hang out quite a bit in Tahoe and Reno. It frustrates me so to spend so much time and money only to have the clueless come way to close to me. I will be getting 2 Go Pros for my Z. The camera in the back will be on the outside facing directly into the car behind me. Wouldn't that be something if you could get a personal license plate that says Sue Happy. I tried this with my buddies camera and it does have an effect. The only way to get through to the increasing amount of morons on the road is through their pocket book. Oh and for the aholes that come to a complete stop on a freeway yea I would recommend upgrading your brakes. Peace. Alex My build is on Instagram under #zlockbox Sent from my XT1650 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Really enjoyed the read. Thanks for sharing! My son (16) now has his 280Z that we have been working on.....looking forward to him writing a similar story in 45 years, and me being around to read it!

Exactly why I'm such a Z nut........quite a difference eh?

Zed Head, I'd love to have an AFM to dissect in my lab. For science. All of my needs are obscure.

Hey Cliff, It's a lowly 996. I can't begin to afford a 993 the way the air cooled prices have gone (can't really afford the 996 either). I really like it, but the horrible Michigan roads are playing hell on it. I need to fix a few rattles that weren't there when I got it. Once I get those taken care of, it will feel rock solid for a 130,000 mile car.

Installed new MSA 60amp alternator and VR bypass plug.....fixed! No issues at all! Running great. I guess the alternator was on its way out (after only a year, oddly) and just got progressively worse really fast. Back to Weber tuning now! Thanks for the input guys!

Very nice work! Your Grandfather is smiling.

I'm not sure there is much difference in tuning procedures between any engines. The principles are the same. Specifically the older engine design of the L motor will not tolerate a bad tune as well as more developed combustion chambers and dual overhead cam set ups. Most issues with these motors are with detonation and HG failures in the latter cylinders. Timing should be kept conservative unless dyno tuning with knock sensor capability . You should pay the extra fee to have VEAL available to help self tune. The analyzer does a pretty good job of helping dial in VE tables , but nothing for timing. Veal will even help warm up tables. As mentioned earlier there is a wealth of info on Hybridz . There is a dedicated Mega Squirt forum to search from. Chickenman is on this site and many others (Richard Boyk), so maybe you could PM him to see if he is available to help you. He is very familiar with tuning EFI and has a wide range of knowledge with aftermarket ECU's. He helped me get a head start on tuning with MS3 and tutored me on tuning in general. He could look at your tune and pretty much tell you what the car was set up for. He could help you get a more street friendly tune. I'm cutting my teeth with NA , so it's less likely to implode with a mistake. You don't have that option, so I would advise getting help before making adjustments and hoping for the best. In general, I am happy with my MS. My car runs very well and performs as well as it did with my triple Mikunis. It's a steep learning curve , but well worth the study

I finished my light recently. It's a cheap eBay unit with LEDs and an aerodynamic design that mounts on the bootlid or hatch. I also got a neat little electronic thing with some electronics and a 3-D accelerometer in it, that has a programmable flash pattern, and reacts to different braking. If you brake lightly, the light will come on in the usual way, but if you brake hard, the accelerometer will sense that and the LED flashing pattern kicks in. I mounted it on the glass with a long wire, using some rare-earth magnets, and is detachable for shows.

Here is my $15.00 third brake light that is a peel and stick! Yes, it's that easy. PEEL AND STICK! Inside the hatch and invisible when it's off. These are super tiny 12v SMD lights. Direct wire. More info: http://nyzcc.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=426 I liked them so much I bought some for the headlights!