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This is what a 300 .00 Z looks like.

I read several posts about using bread or grease to pop the old bushing out. My original one did not want to come out that way or with the tapered screw-in grease zerk shown below. I ended up getting a removal tool from harbor freight and grinding down the claws to where they would fit inside and pulling it out that way. It was a super cheap version of the bottom picture

This should clear it up

What kind of bread? Hole Wheat? Heavy grease works too. But then you don't have a snack when you're done

This is very helpful thanks guys. I never looked at it like that. I did find a very nice one for 2500. It was like you said a daily drive with a clean title and needed a little TLC. I think ill go back to looking for something like that.

Stop looking for a shell. The only people selling shells are the people looking to capitalize on a rare car and desperate buyers. Look for a parked/daily driver that is restorable for a decent amount of money. It will save you money in the long run and you will not need to buy all the missing parts or at least most. Save your money, keep looking for the old family car parked for the last 20 years and be prepared to pay a few thousand dollars for a non-runner, decent shape, clean title 240. Less for a 260/280.

Anyone know if synthetic 75/90w oil is fine for the diff? Also the gasket has a green side and a dark grey side. I assume dark grey is towards iron and green towards aluminum?

That is epic!!!!

Good deal- Richard will get you heading in the right direction . It's a bit of a steep learning curve - at least for me it was , but with some guidance you'll figure it out

I really dig the gold zinc and aluminum of the datsun world. Looks so cool.

yeah, the P.T. or Cone-lock nuts are deemed non-reversible, and thus non-reusable if removed... Jam-nuts or nylocks are a much better replacement. Thouuuuuuuuuuuuugh I usually test the PT nuts for larger threads like that by using a stubby wrench. If it's very hard to turn with my palm as the only way to make use of what little leverage there is, I'll reuse them.

Sorting out some tunes with Chickenman. Thanks, let you know how it turns out!

don't forget to check the cold start injector. Pull it out of the manifold and look to see if its leaking, in warm weather (over 70f) it should not spray, and it should only spray when the key is in the "Start" position even when its cold. Often times people goof up the bullet connections for the temp sensor for the EFI and the cold start thermotime swtich, make sure they are correct.

You might want to slip jack stands under it and check the torque on the pan bolts first. "Upper pan" was just a lame, vague description of the source of the leak. That guy missed his calling. He could have been a politician.

In my humble opinion you would gain very little from the installation of the K&N filters. If you go with 2 separate filters you would have to figure out a new routing of your pcv valve, too. There have been several posts here on the usefulness of K&N filters. Most folks think they are a waste of money. And don't forget you have to clean and oil them with the "special" K&N products (more $$). There is more than enough things to maintain on these cars without adding to it. As Site says new air filters are available from Nissan. It has been my experience that with as few miles as I put on the car (2,000/year) they last a long time. Save your hard earned dough for other stuff. Once again, my $.02. Cheers, mike