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I thought maybe only the early cars came with the rubber cover on the T-handle. All my early cars have them, but my low mileage 72 did not. Maybe that one just got lost at some point?

Heck for beer and wizz bomb fun I'll learn to like bikes! Yes I'm planning on coming. Only been doing the even years so far, don't want to break with tradition. Hold down handles had rubber trim????? Yup, never seen one with it.

fuel flow check: Just hold the lid to your face and blow air through the fuel entrance in the lid. Open and close the needle valve by moving the float and you should hear the air stop and start when the valve opens and closes. Balancing: Too much vacuum on one carb at idle means it is doing all the work and the other two are not. You need to close the throttle valve stops on all to be the same before you start balancing. Also ensure the idle enrichment screws are all backed out by the same amount at start. Do not turn any enrichment screws until the air is first balanced. Here are the steps to follow: 1. Gently turn all 6 idle enrichment screws in until they stop then back each out 1 full turn (note: some recommend anywhere between 1.5 turns to 2.5turns however the SK Carb manual recommends between 3/4 to 1 full turn so 1 full turn should do) 2. Disconnect push rods from carb arms. 3. Turn back all 3 idle stop screws until each is not touching the idle stop. Then turn each in until it just kisses the stop, then give each an additional 2 turns to open the throttles a crack. 4. Start the engine and let it warm up for 10 min until it is nice and hot. (Don't worry about rpms unless they are too low). 5. Measure the air flow into each carb and adjust the idle stop screws until you get the air balanced AND such that you have lowered the rpms to between 650 and 850rpms. Hopefully this will get you in the ball park before you have to mess with the enrichment screws and linkage.

Thanks for the compliments all. I need to tell you what a great body shop Redbird was at. It was Ken's Car Star. In case anyone is interested, it is located at: 3518 Cleveland Highway, Dalton, Ga. 30721 One thing I am amazed at is the quality of the paint in matching the older with the new. You guys know how bad red is to deal with, and it was done just perfect. They, ahem my neighbor, is a master at painting. I couldn't be happier with the work on RedBird. Thanks my friends, Jai

Congrats on that trophy Jai ! Well deserved ! Your post put a huge grin on my face. You go girl !! PS: That Lissa sure is a cutie.

A far as I can tell there's no offset in the hold-down pressing, so the top of the T-handle sits in the same position whether the hold-down pressing is high side up or high side down.

There's more than one set of factory spring rates for the '240', let alone anything else. '240' doesn't mean just one thing... As Jason has pointed out, it would be interesting to see some of the budget end of the market damper units put on a shock dyno. You almost never see any discussion of bump/rebound ratings, knee-points and etc in relation to them. The suspicion is that they are generically-valved with little real attention paid to final application. At least some of them were originally aimed at models with semi-trailing arm rear suspension.

If the car runs, the ammeter is working. For the other circuits, check the third fuse down on the left.

I'll message Steve. We've worked together before. I sent him the AM radio faceplates to reproduce. Chuck Sent from my Moto G Play using Classic Zcar Club mobile

That's what she said.

Pending sale.....

That may be something to dip in that rubber stuff for tool handles? Plasti Dip.

Got the engine buttoned up and back where it belongs, 3-4 days away.

Page 8, post #191

My car Msa 6-1 2 1/2" pipe to zstory jdm muffler. IMG_9275.MOV

Cleaned up the wiper motor today. Put a new cover on and replaced the connector housing. I used tie-wraps instead of the plastic rivets. The original rivets could not be salvaged. This is one of those things that is not visible on the car, but you know it is there. Installed wiper motor and wiper arm assembly Also installed the cowl and front valence. Cleaned and painted the front grill. Installed that as well. Pics are below.

Hi, FYI here's another 1/71 Series I build (VIN: 18,859). A one owner bought new on May 13th, 1971 in Kitimat,BC,Canada. Total refurbishment(~6 year) started in 2007....Thanks to, 'Blue'

Here is a source for fuel compatible hose that has an original black cloth wrapped look that comes in 6mm and 8mm sizes, as well as others. They have also have JIS fasteners that look interesting as well. http://www.newcoproducts.com/new/cohline/hoses.html

So here is data: Stock exhaust and carbs: 60kw / 80hp Stock exhaust and Holley carb: 65kw / 87hp High flow exhaust and Holley carb: 80kw / 107hp But most tuned L28's 280z stock put ~ 95kw / 125 hp?

They both hook right up, no difference there. The real difference is in the ratios. The early 5 speeds have wider ratios and a shorter OD, which makes them more well suited to the 3.54 gears that they came with. This also makes them better suited to the 3.36 gears your 240 came with. The ZX had closer gear ratios and came with a 3.90 rear gear. If you swap the late transmission into a car with a 3.36 the result is a car that is a slug off the line and has a theoretical top speed of 200 mph. Seeing as how most Zs will never break 150, this is a ridiculously tall gear combination in my opinion. The short version: if you don't want to change the diff, get the 280Z 5 speed. If you want to change the diff and make the car as fast as possible, get a ZX and a lower diff ratio like a 3.90 or 4.11, depending on your intended usage and your motor's power band.