Leaderboard

After nearly 50 years of marriage, a couple was lying in bed one evening, when the wife felt her husband, begin to massage her in ways he hadn't in quite some time. It almost tickled as his fingers started at her neck, and then began moving down past the small of her back. He then caressed her shoulders and neck, slowly worked his hand down, stopping just over her stomach. He then proceeded to place his hand on her left inner arm, working down her side, passing gently over her buttock and down her leg to her calf. Then, he proceeded up her thigh, stopping just at the uppermost portion of her leg. He continued in the same manner on her right side, then suddenly stopped, rolled over and became silent. As she had become quite aroused by this caressing, she asked in a loving voice, ‘Honey that was wonderful. Why did you stop?' To which he responded: 'I found the remote.'...

Merci Mark - lui et moi se connais. C'est un jeun avec beaucoup de courage et détermination pour réaliser sa rêve. ps merci pour 'la pub' :-) !

3798 has no "flow guide valve" or evap line.

That will be fine. Unless you get very high temperatures in Seattle this weekend, there is no fuel pressure issues you need to worry about. My favorite stupid boo boo is to leave the lines un capped, then move the car where the angle changes and later have fuel dribble out from gravity feed without noticing it for a while. Pressure buildup is not an issue.

HLS30-00048 was originally a US car, probably an HLS30U like my cars. It was restored as a UN. I own the remains of HLS30-00403 which I bought several years ago. It was a UN - 11/69 build date. According to my references, the HLS30 UV had an evaporative emission control device and the HLS30 U did not. They had a smog pump but not evap. tank in the quarter panel. The gas tanks are peculiar also because of the lack of the vent hoses.

I thought that some early US cars with 1969 production dates were UN spec. Maybe @Carl Beck or @26th-Z will chime in. Here's another 1970 Canadian ad,

HLS30-00048 was originally a US car. It came from Washington state. Gab got it and restored it when he lived in Vancouver.

I drove mine from September 2000 until November 2005 before the main harness fire. And yes it was a daily driver. Did one 6000 mile round trip to Santa Barbara from Florida one week after 9/11. So I am sure I am over 100,000 marker, and like JWTAY finishing metal work, plan to have it reassembled and "running" next summer. Could be repainted by this time next year

Was quite busy this week with the Z's small projects that have been going on. I've been cleaning and exchanging the partsi n my tumbler almost daily and today i finally had them completed: Now all is packed up and ready for zinc re-plating and yellow passivating. Which means i have to wait for the parts for approximately one week before i can continue. Pretty happy with the result by the way. The Tumbler was well invested money. just took me some years to figure out how to use it properly During preparation process i also fixed some parts which where slightly worn out. Like this one. Before: Straightening it out in the little vice: and After. Much better Oh and then got some new parts, like the replacement repair-lamp bulb cover. I know it's not 100% the OEM colour, but it looks pretty good. still might try to clean the original one. Oh and some new door switches by the original manufacturer: And greased and packed all my brake-stuff to prevent them from rusting. Oh and started disassembly and cleaning of the ignition switches: Next step: Ordering some parts (will do that in a minute) and then complete some other bits next week.

Here is power supply Dr.meter 4.2 out of 5 stars 189 Reviews Dr.meter 30V/5A Single-Output DC Power Supply 110V/220V Switchable with Alligator Clip included, US 3-prong Cable,PS305DM I thread all polished hardware on to 18g brass wire. I found that other materials are unpredictable and left pieces in the same soak dull Then dip in muriatic acid 50/50 distilled water until it quits fizzing. Rinsed in distilled bucket Let hang into degreaser at 120 degrees until ready usually about 15 min. Rinsed in distilled bucket Load into zinc tank. Which is constantly heated to 75 degrees with one of submersible heater for fish tank. Loads were calculated to run at 5 amps the max my rectifier will do, for 15 min. Trying to remember to rotate in middle of load became challenge. Rinsed in distilled bucket Dipped into Blue Chromate for about 5-10 seconds Rinsed in distilled bucket Dipped into Yellow Chromate for about 15 seconds Rinsed in distilled bucket Yellow chromate I mixed myself using 10 oz of sodium dichromate which I bought cheaply on eBay and 1 oz sulfuric acid ( battery acid) to one gallon of distilled water. All other products were bought at Caswell Hope this helps. I really noticed the difference in the properties of the zinc by adding brightener at the beginning of each day I was going to zinc. Noticeably different outcome when I didn’t add it in the beginning of my day. Here are some pics of the set up. It is not much to let look at but it works for me. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Most people call the interior color "butterscotch". This thread may be of some use: If you have really deep pockets, this product may help you some, too: https://zcarsource.com/interior-set-w-carpet-vinyl-seat-upholstery-trim-240z-1-71-73-butterscotch-new

I bought my 12/70 240Z in 1998 and drove it as a daily driver for the next 14 years, about 54 miles a day. Started at about 65000 and added about another 160000. Engine still running strong. It's currently getting some rust repair work done so I can get it painted. Hope to be back on the road next summer.

While i can't show you much, i've been busy lately completeing a lot of stuff i've started but never really finnished. 1) Thanks to the input of some readers i was finally able to remove the last cylinder from the brake caliper. The solution was easy. install the allready-removed cylinder again and fix it with a c-clamp. add some air-pressure again to the brake-fluid channels and it would pop out easily (It doesnt look like the cylinder is aligned properly but i fixed that) Since sunday my Rattler / Vibrator / Tumbler / Spirator / Whatever you call it, has been working in full force to remove all the rust / Paint / Dirt and grease from all the parts i will send for re-plating. It's maybe not the fastest solution but it comes out quite handy and you don't have to do anything except of waiting Guess it will take another week or so until all the parts are ready andsome of them even might need a bit of manual cleaning, but the first bunch of parts are allready looking shiny and have a super-smooth surface Then i got some new (used) turn signal switches from my mate Patrick (Thanks for that!) to complete that job too. That's it for now hope for more updates again soon

Spent some more time disassembling parts to get them ready for zinc-replating. Thought while at it, i could take the brake-parts for a replating as well. So i started with the disassembly of my Sumitomo MK63 Solid disk type Ex-works type calipers: First got the old pads and shims removed. still looking quite good to be honest: Then spent an hour or so at the garage and disassembled the rest of the calipers. With the help of my trusty little air-compressor and some redneck-skills i managed to get 7/8 cylinders out of the calipers without any damage to me, tools or the calipers. However the last sucker doesn't want to come out. Even brought it to a local garage and he used a torch to heat it up but wasn't able to remove it. we'll see how i can do that. Any inputs? Otherwise i'll try another two days having it soaked in WD40, and if that doesn't work i'll bring it to a machine shop or so... Otherwise i was quite successfull, the brakes are in great condition and by the way even learned a lot about brakes (first time working on some brakes so that was quite some fun). After that i took all the bits from the brakes plus some other i found in my garage and put them in the "re-plating box". Still need to clean all of this stuff for a few hours before i can send it there (they prefer old rust, grease, rubber-leftovers and paint to be removed. Hope i find some time again soon..

Nothing big here. just spent two hours cleaning all the transmission parts after the glass bead blasting. Removed some leftovers from the masking tape and blew away all the leftovers from the blasting from all the small corners, etc. Since i forgot my cam at home you only get some crappy mobile-phone shots: When done i started going through the small parts and decided i could clean them too. so the trusty green scotch-n-brite came in handy again to clean all the small pieces: Then decided to make a little test-assembly with the new PU shifter bushings (red), since the old ones were quite worn-out (black): This is how it all goes together: And this is the result. quite happy. Will remove it all again, grease the rubber with some bushing-grease from the energy-bushings kit and have the washers and nuts zinc-plated alongside all the other nuts and bolts from the transmission before the final assembly:

In my last post, i wrote about the fact that the transmission looked wrong after the "glass bead blasting". Many readers pointed out it seems to have been just sandblasted. I contacted the blasting company again and asked what happened. He excused himself a hundred times and told me that his guy somhow missunderstoud somthing and that it was only blasted. but not sand blasted as you thought, but blasted with "broken glass". this is softer and won't attack the surface of the Aluminum. It's less corrosive than regular silicat-sand used for blasting. At least that was good news. He promised me to immediately fix that. Today i was able to pick it up again: They glass-bead blasted everything and the surface now looks and feels a lot smoother and got this slight "satin gloss" finish. just as it should be. The sense of Glass bead blasting is to improve the surface density of aluminium. Like that it's much stronger and will keep the appearance for a longer time when used unpainted in a car. While it doesn't have the super-glossy OEM-like finish it's what i was aiming for. I got told for the glossy finish it should be soda/vapour/fluid blasted. But for me it's perfect as it is. it's not going to be a concours build anyway and it seems much fresher again. Also they clearcoated the cast-iron bits as promised, to protect it from corrosion: This is how the gear selector looks after the protective tape was removed. Still needs a bit of cleaning though but looks perfect. just as i wanted it Super happy with the result. and while it took me a few extra hours to bring it back again and pick it up. the good thing is they felt so sorry that the extra-work was for free. They only charged me for the first part of the work. which is awesome and came out on a budget

Curiosity got the better of me after all this transmission talk. I didn't see any markings to confirm, but looking around at pictures, I'm pretty sure it's the stock 71B. Shift lever looks like it's bent -- is it supposed to be shaped like that? Inner boot is in bad shape, transmission boot is missing, and that ZX boot was spray painted black. More stuff for my birthday list. Removing the console also revealed a mini knife, toothpicks and a flosser to go along with the rest of the general nastiness. I might have diseases now. Vacuuming made me feel better about it, but didn't really help. Interior restoration is rapidly moving up the to-do list.