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Sometimes a cigar is just a cigar... I doubt anyone in Japan or here the US thought that nearly 50 years later these cars would be both collected and a thread about VINs would merit a discussion. Got a Z that is in some way significant or historical;, then it should have matching tags. Got car number 10356? If you're concerned about it's resale value spend the time and money to get a proper title in the State you're in. But maybe you have car 10357 or 10355, are they more important than car 10356? They made thousands of these cars and not all of them are special. Hell, if they (they being Datsun/Nissan) thought these were special they would have kept making the S30 body cars for decades and not moved on to other versions. First and foremost these are objects to transport you from Point A to Point B (with a smile on your face to be sure) but that's all they are. What we think they are and how they make us feel is what makes them special. Alan, you have perhaps more person-to-person experience with the folks who made this cars, so you tell us, were they build to be put in a museum or instead to be driven? And yes, I get the scam, fraud aspect of your concern as someone with a special Z or two and I am more than aware of the slippery slope issue as well, but these aren't cars where they made 12, 189 or 457. When a stock 1973 240Z with a high production number is sold for six figures or becomes a most have collector car in Europe then I would reconsider my opinion. ....sometimes a car is just a car.

Hi G-nose fans, My name is Mark Clapp and I make the headlight covers for the G-nose Zs. The plastic I use will not crack so you don't need the special drill bits for plastic like the ones needed for drilling acrylic (Plexiglas). Any old bit will do fine with no cracking. My patterns were made from OEM light covers. I make them in the OEM size to use under the trim rings. If you don't have the trim rings, I also make them in a smaller radius for a flush fit with the light bucket edges. For these I include L-braces made from the same crystal clear plastic to mount the covers with. From a short distance the L-braces disappear and the covers look like they are floating on the car. I'm asking $189/pair and the shipping is covered with $20 inside the U.S. or $30 to overseas. I also make quarter windows in the same crack-proof plastic and ask $60/pair for those. Please email me with any questions at: mclapp5526@gmail.com and feel free to call anytime at: 816-286-6982. Thanks, Mark Clapp

Check out this grill I bought. Mine is bent bad. I was going for the JDM Fairlady style but like these better. Way better than a crappy old stock one for almost the same price IMO. Black Friday special too. https://skillard.com/products/datsun-240z-front-grill

Since buying a "rust free" aluminum and plastic Honda Insight, I have gained a great deal of experience in dealing with corrosion due to dissimilar metals, moisture, and electricity. The Insight's steel suspension bolts, seatbolts, and wiring harness stays all corrode where they contact aluminum. The front engine cover on our Z's is especially prone to this same problem due to the steel bolts, steel block, aluminum cover and gasket insulator. MORE IMPORTANTLY , the alternator's current passes through these bolts due to the front cover gasket insulating most of the path. In places where steel bolts fasten to, or pass through aluminum, I now use this product available at Home Depot in the electrical section for aluminum wiring (NOALOX) NO ALuminum OXidation. I recommend it for timing cover bolts, and water pump bolts. It works like antiseize but is better suited for steel bolts into aluminum parts.

Laws are determined by the state, sometimes the county. By people. That's how laws work, they're just written rules, written by people, in this case, for the purpose of assigning ownership. As already mentioned, there are many different laws in the USA. We are not homogeneous. Morality is determined by intent. Intent has not been determined here yet. If the "law" says that you can leave an old VIN ID on a part used on a separate car with its own VIN, then both of your cases are incorrect. The law will have been followed and whoever did it had no apparent intent to "steal" from another person. All they need to do is follow the law. The OP has moved on, apparently, and may or may not be hiding the car for ten years. If he is hiding it then maybe he is committing an amoral act. But, he probably hasn't really though about it, so god might give him a pass. Really though, you're kind of going over the top here. It's still just a car with some numbers attached, and no documents showing which are correct. Bringing the concept of a supreme power in to the discussion is a bit much, and nobody has advocated breaking the law. We're just describing how things are over here in the wild west. This is not England. But, since it's a topic, are the laws in all fo the territories of the UK identical, or are there differences? Might be a good point of reference for you. The OP bought an undefined legal problem and may or may not try to resolve it. Found my example on Wikipedia. We're not so different. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Law_of_the_United_Kingdom

Well then let's move some of my garage full of spares into yours!

I've kept several of those brake light switches if you want to try a couple of others. Let me know at z240@shaw.ca

Can't help on the hard pedal as when it happened to me it was the disk that dropped in the booster, #10 the rear proportioning valve is fixed, no moving parts that I remember. #8 the warning light switch, the switch itself is the plunger type that threads into the top of the unit. If the 2 ended piston that activates the switch is moved due to loss of pressure in either the front or rear lines it has to be manually reset to center by unscrewing the switch and moving the piston back with a small screw driver or dental pick.

I thought that the "hard pedal" or abrupt brake actuation was almost always the reaction disc in the brake booster. I've seen people talk about resetting those switches but I think that the FSM describes that they automatically recenter when the pressure differential problem is removed. In the later FSM's anyway. They don't mention any need to replace it in 1972. Some people think that they divert pressure to the working half of the system but I don't think so. The master cylinder's serial piston setup will still pressurize just with more travel, I think. But if you have a hard high pedal that would mean both front and back are getting pressure. p.s. I think that you're blending up your terms and words. There's a switch, which you show, and distribution fitting (3 way connector), and a proportioning valve.

Complete piece with satin black clasp.

Hey Cliff, 4mm equals 0.160 inches. My cam is reground, too. But "only" .460" valve lift.

Don't tell @Diseazdthat! Go ahead and try to get the title straight now, it may take some time. I took me 3 years to get a clear title on a car I bought out of NY. If you can great. If you can't you know it's a parts car for sure. It gets harder every year to get these kind of issues straightened out at the DMV. They would really prefer these vehicles weren't on the road at all, I believe...

Dual system is just a waste . All that extra weight and the extra noise . All the pages of data I've read show without question that single exhaust is the best for power . Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile