Leaderboard

I just installed these yesterday in the front as well. EuroDat nailed it. I was worried I was gonna break the endlinks cus the bushings felt very hard, but they end up flexing pretty well with the weight of the car on them.

That is some crazy racin'... Worth a watch.

The raised lip goes in the sway bar. See photo's. The lip is there to prevent the swaybar touching the metal bolt. Prevents meta, to metal rubbing noises and acceleratd wear on the bolt.

I bring this up occasionally - I've had two 280Z's that wouldn't start when the tach was not installed. Beside that, who knows what else is disconnected with the dash out. These cars aren't like an old Chevy that justs needs a wire to the coil and some gas in the carb. Most of the electrical needs to be connected and working for the engine to run. Probably going to have to put it all back together and run the electrical tests in the FSM or the EFI Book. Edit - it's probably running off of cold start valve fuel, and the EFI system isn't even powered. The EFI relay is attached to the dash.

It's surprisingly easy to remove everything. I've taken a ton of photos and I like to put screws back in their places with stuff like this rather than bagging them. I'm pulling everything because I want to paint a bare engine bay so it's perfect. No masking at all.

Rolled her out today to get some parts out of my tiny garage. Put the rear spoiler on with tape to get an ide of what it will look like (still needs some tweaking and to be painted).

ok so to your questions 1. yes it is a 79 280zx distributor i dont know if its a D6K9 it dose have external HEI witch is the little box outside it right if so yes. What did you do to disconnect the external TIU. It could be causing issues with the HEI. Note: The 280ZX 79 – 80 used the D6K9-02 through to D6K9-10 distributor I think. Might be more versions. They are mostly the same, but some with slightly different advance curves and vacuum advance. The only thing important here is it’s a D6K9 series with build-in TIU. 2. yes no more ballast. 3. yes new coil it is a BWD coil it is a 12v not to sure on the amp number how would i check that?. 12 volt is the most important. If it’s a 3amp coil the HEI won’t go to current limiting. You will probably have problems running spark plug gaps of 0.040 to 0.044”. A gap 0.28 to 0.031” would be the better with a 3.0 amp coil/HEI combination. 4 & 5. i did check the wires didnt do a supper deep check but they seem good i will go over them again and clean and check for swollen parts for all three wires. Corrosion in the terminals is a big problem and can cause voltage drop in the ECU power supply. A lot of weird issues in the ECU because the ECU does’t like low voltage. See photo's of corroded terminals. 6. i have not installed one yet but i been meaning to will try and do it tomorrow. Install one. You need to know what your pressure is. 7. i do not know what a yoghurt cop test is but i did check all my lines and boots and they are pretty good boots look almost like new. A yoghurt cup test is a simple leak test you can do on the inlet manifold. Basically you remove the rubber hose between the AFM and the Throttle body. Block the hole in the throttle body with a “Yoghurt cup”. I use a plastic sheet over the open end and a Tye-rap to seal it off. After you have done that I remove the hose that goes to the AAR and blow into the manifold there (See photo for location). Even with your lungs you should feel pressure build up. My 77 holds pressure for about 15-20 seconds or more before its gone. If you (or someone helping you) hears air blowing out the exhaust, That is valve overlap and you will need to turn the engine a little to find a spot where there is no overlap. 8. i have i kinda have it wear it seems to run the best wen it decides to run Do you have a timing light to check it while you crank the engine? It should be around 10deg advance. 9. well my tach at first it did for less then a second but now i do not have the dash in my car and my harness is fairly clean no cuts That is the first you mentioned the dash is out of the car. and about the last owner no all he told me is that he swapped the engine ECU might be stock as the harness in and outside the car looks stock as well. Can you have a look on the ECU. You should see a number beginning with A11-xxx-xxx. Since we don’t know for certain what the PO did, you could have an ECU that doesn’t match your harness pin layout. There are a lot of different ECU’s out there and not all will work in your car. thanks for your help to all you guys it is very frustrating specially wen i had it running fine for less then an hour haha thank you guys a lot. You also mentioned the Transistor unit was on the ground and it sparked. Can you explain that in more detail. Things like when the key was in ON position. Or when cranking the engine it started sparking through the metal box to the chassis/floor of the car? That does not sound good at all. That could have damaged one of the fusible links in the engine bay in front of the battery. The ignition relay might be working and supplying power to the dropping resistors (inner fender next to the brake booster) and the injectors, but the ECU grounds them. Like Zed Head said. The CSV works on a different circuit in the ECU and doesn’t need anywhere as much current to work. It could work easily on a poor power and give you enough fuel to start the engine. A way to test this theory is to use starter fluid on the engine. When you start it, spray it into the intake and try to keep it running on that. That would confirm your injectors or pump are not doing their job.

Look for help here

To give you inspiration. Apparently it has been done.