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Got my hood thanks to ironhead68

Looking for a picture of the original factory installed 240z inner door plastic vapor barrier. I have been so busy the last 3 years with www.240zrubberparts.com helping out other owners with their projects, my project has been stalled out. I started working on getting the doors back together today. Everything has been replated and installed new window rollers and cups.

Never thought about the open back of the impellers on the stamped blade. It is like a water wheel. It probably does push less coolant but might not be a factor for a typical street car. It would be neat to set two up pushing water against each and see which one wins. Those cast impellers are so purty though. I'm surprised people don't polish or chrome them before installation. Transparent plastic housing with a polished impeller inside. A few LEDS... Nice.

Thank you both. The stamped one I have has what appears to be a brass impeller. I know outboard boat motors have a metal tab above the prop to ground out the electrolysis they create, otherwise they eat up the aluminium on the lower unit. Hopefully that will not be a problem. The cheaper stamped pumped actually has a little smoother feel when turning it by hand, felt like better bearings or seals? Anyway we'll see today when I fill it up with coolant and go for a drive. The cast pump puts the gauge needle dead on the far right leg of the M in "TEMP". Maybe I can get it down to the left leg? Another thing I thought of last night, the cast impeller is more of a water wheel than an impeller. It takes the water and moves it in the direction it needs to go, so the backside is irrelevant. It feels good to work on the Z again, my back hurts but I have something for that.

I've run both. I was watching for any change when I went to the stamped impellers the first time. I thought the stamped impeller pump looked cheap and flimsy. No change. IMO, they're both satisfactory for the street.

As I recall, people have identified three potential issues with the stamped impeller, but there's not a lot of evidence supporting the theories. One is just having the stamped steel rust and wear away, Another is cavitation, causing damage and wear to the impeller. And the other is lower flow. I've not seen solid evidence that the stamped is worse than the cast. Some new engines use stamped impellers in the factory water pumps, I think. But they were probably designed in conjunction with the housing design. I think that the stamped GBM impeller is designed to fit in to a housing designed for a cast impeller. Who knows if it matters. On the other hand, here's a 2016 Camaro V6 water pump. 2016 and still cast curved blades. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7204964&cc=3353479&jsn=520

this week ending on 2-9-18 will be offering a bundle kit for $75.00 plus $8 shipping. Black top for finisher nut Antenna ball 3-piece kit fender-top rubber seal Send me an email at orders@240zrubberparts.com with your email address and I will send you a paypal invoice once your kit is ready.

I received the two grommets from Mike and I will be reproducing both. There is a slight .5mm difference in the heights of each.

If the information is true that Nissan is planning to begin supplying parts for restoration of the Z car and Skyline this may be a part to contact them and request replacement parts, such as this that as good as some are at reproducing some parts this one is not one that can be independently re-manufactured.

For all of us that have owned our Z's for MANY years - remember that the "story" is that we bought our cars when we were 12 years old, using money we earned on our (very long) paper routes. Dang, we couldn't even legally drive them until we got our license... (you don't want people to think we're REALLY old... )

Unfortunately I only have one, so that is the only one that has been tested on. But due to the design these are largely self rectifying and it should be fine. You can see we leave the programming pins on the board so if you need it adjusted we can tweak it or you can if you have a programmer but we dont feel it will be needed. Jaycar boxes are just generic box mounts: http://www.jaycar.co...tal-Boxes/c/231 I'm sure you could pick something up in the US and avoid the postage on it.

OK. Since I have gone through all 9 yards on rally clocks, this info might be helpful. The rally clock is worth around $150-350 by itself with "knob" The knobs are somewhat like 280ZX with analog clock, but different. (If you put a smallest washer and mechine screw from jewelry store, it can be used) The lenses are often cracked and it can be rusty inside even though the dial looks Ok. The most important thing is the working oscillator. I fould out that tt can be repaired at one or 2 places in Japan. (It conists of many resister and it can be repaired if you are lucky for $250-600. You also have to send it in with the clock. (The clock itself has only a motor and gears, but no timing components.) Now before anything else, please know the following fact about the clock. It looks good and everthing, but it also makes a awful laud noise. (I have a NOS rally clock on mine, and still makes a big motor noise) And it also consumes battery energy while it is parked. So I have my car's battery disconnected while it is parked. (If it is parked for a week to 10 days, it could kill your battery) If you wish to have them repaired, I will be more than happy to get it fixed in Japan. By the way, the callender clock is a good alternative for those of you who want "Rally clock look" on your car. It is traded at farely reasonable price in Japan and they have less issues. Please note that there are 2 versions (early one and late one) buy either one can be fitted as long as you change the connector at the back. See my clock here http://shop.jdm-car-parts.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&zenid=l9ghqspombss0d2ju7ulg241t3&keyword=clock