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I did not see if the tensioner was still in place when I had the valve cover off and should have also checked the timing marks with the engine at TDC. Oh well. The car runs and I can move it in and out of the garage. I really want to get the chain replaced before I do anything else but I will make note of everything before pulling things apart. The Z will have to wait as I will be doing a timing chain replacement this weekend on my other project, a 1988 Mercedes Benz 560 SEC.

So in doing a Google search of Shelby Daytona, I came across this article that quoted Pete Brock and John Morton: http://www.roadandtrack.com/motorsports/a26376/coupe-de-grace-shelby-daytona-coupe-story/

I know it might not be an option for you, but I bought ACDelco part number 45G25036 from Rock Auto. That kit contains everything you need for one side. Two rubber bushings and all the metal pieces. Comes with metal tube, two large washers, two small washers, and a nut. Looks like this: But since you already have all the metal hardware, you would only need one kit. Use one of the rubber bushings on each side. Poly on the front, and rubber on the back. Looks like this: The rubber bushings have a wide side and a narrow side. The narrow side goes towards the frame of the car. It's hard to see the difference once everything is all smashed in place with the nut, but you can see the difference before it's assembled onto the car. The orientation of the bushings should look like this:

Oh, and the obvious fix to your problem is... Drive your Z more often!!

Let me get this right. The 240z is the LAST car to add to your Datsun collection?

Well I can actually say I’m making progress again. Wanting more power for this summer and getting my Megasquirt going has been a big motivator. The block has been sitting under plastic bags and the guts have been in Tupperware totes. I had already sized rings so they were ready to go. I had to clean the pistons again for the third time after noticing i missed some carbon in the ring glands. I also drilled out the plugs on the block to get full access to the oil gallery. After getting that done it was time to clean again. Id say assembly went smoothly but had issues with oil clearances on 4&5 mains. All the caps were numbered and marked with dots( which I did neither to the best of my memory) . I put it back the same way and 4 had only .001 clearance while 5 had .003. I tried everything from deburring, filing , swapping bearing shells to improve things and nothing worked. When 4 got torqued , it made the crank noticeably harder to turn. I finally had to resort to calling my machinist for advice. He said to try swapping caps, and I did , and it worked. Crank spun freely and plastic gauge showed .002 on both. That was a big victory ! I knew this engine spun freely when I took it apart , but didn’t pay attention to the markings other than that they were marked. Piston pop out is .023 . Yes the block was shaved . Waiting on a timing kit to come in since I wasn’t happy with the Melling kit. Dam crank sprocket would even fit ? Time to dust off the MN47 . It’s been sitting in a box for a very long time and I wasn’t even sure how much more work it needed. I considered using my E88 that’s on my L24 , but at 37cc Chambers , I think it would be too much CR, besides the fact .050 has been shaved off it and makes P2V clearance much less. The MN47 needs more port work around the guide area mostly, then dropping in bigger intake valves , so it will take a minute . But it will get most of my attention for a while . With block pretty much done , I can concentrate on the head .

Dude.. you have about 57 threads on this subject and now you're hijacking someone else's thread? Very bad form