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Oh, that´s greate i think, i will buy them. Thank you for the info. Perfect Uli from Germany

If you subscribe to engineering magazines like Racecar Engineering and Race Engine Tech, they often have articles on Cooling system design. Circle Track Racing also has very good articles. The testing has already been done. You just have to find the articles. BTW... the stamped steel designs always fall to the bottom of the tests. It's not a real surprise is it? Look how complex Compressor wheels are on a Turbo. W/Pumps are the exact same thing. Only thye move a Liquid, not air. Same principles apply though. W/Pump design gets very, very critical. It is surprising how the smallest detail can affect pump efficiency. All of your Top Racing w/pimps use CNC designed impellers and Volutes these days. Equal flow, block pressure and Anti Cavitation are all areas that must be addressed. Impellor to Volute clearances are very critical. The lack of the back plate of those Stamped " Paddle wheels " greatly affects their efficiency. http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ctrp-0404-water-pump/

It's Labatt's 240260280.

SS bolt too long? Call on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vC4RHGvG7M

The car is complete! My car is the 305 blue 260Z in the sea of 240z's. The mechanic is putting some miles on the car and tweaking what needs to be done. It is in the testing phase. I still have not seen the car, but what I have seen in photos; WOW! It's in good company sitting next to Ms. Butter's (Rob's personal 920 gold 240z) and my buddy Glenn's Fairlady 240ZL that is on the other side of my car on the lift. This photo was sent to me and all I thought was that this is a 'dream garage.' I look forward to giving you guys more updates and a detailed review with photos of my 260z when it's back at home and terrorizing the streets! Ben

will give them a try, but if its that price range I can learn to love my slotted mags

This week's adventure was finishing up the booth lighting. I then moved on to rust treating the whole car and painting the epoxy primer.

Cider pumps best in my neck of the woods.

like that idea of a water pump shoot out, target different RPMs to simulate idle, and 2-3k and then a 5k to see if the design lends itself to different performance at varied RPM.

You'd need a soldering iron. And you'll probably find that the brushes are worn when you take it apart. I only suggested just to show that the parts are available. You can get the other parts on Rockauto too. Probably find a complete kit on eBay. Or, if you have a shop in your neighborhood they might be able to get the parts and do the work. Just saying, it might be a better option than taking a chance on a parts store reman. You'd have a real professional taking the time to do it right. The parts are available and that's usually the only limitation. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1987,d21+pickup,2.4l+l4,1210857,electrical

Verdammt! You have a nice place with nice toys. No neighbor promblem, room for "Field of Dreams" diamond. Beautiful car and background.

Oh, and the obvious fix to your problem is... Drive your Z more often!!

Never thought about the open back of the impellers on the stamped blade. It is like a water wheel. It probably does push less coolant but might not be a factor for a typical street car. It would be neat to set two up pushing water against each and see which one wins. Those cast impellers are so purty though. I'm surprised people don't polish or chrome them before installation. Transparent plastic housing with a polished impeller inside. A few LEDS... Nice.

Put my new shoes on today for my alignment tomorrow morning. Went from 225/50/15 to 205/55/16. Got my Enkei 92's rockin! Went for a quick spin and what a difference no flat spots make. The dartiness went down too with the narrower tires. So much to do!