Leaderboard

1973 240Z Scarab for sale, I'm listing the car for my Father. My Dad has owned the car since 1981. True survivor, non molested with less than 30K original miles. 327, Super T-10, Cromodora wheels finished in Safari Gold. Garage kept in New Mexico and never abused. Interested parties please reply with contact information. Accepting offers. More pictures for serious buyers upon request. Car will be released upon receipt of cash in person with any shipping the responsibility of the buyer. Thanks for the interest, a truly nice car.

They are located in the Southern Hemisphere, I'm in the Northern Hemisphere. Everything is opposite. Toodle-oo mate. con·trar·y adjective ˈkäntrerē/ 1. opposite in nature, direction, or meaning.

Workin' on it---baby steps and waiting.

Currently with "no current supply", to find a NOS bullet point mast you will pay what the market will bear. Same can be said for a good straight used bullet point mast. If they were to be available again through a vendor the price would adjust. An example of that is the tail lights. At one point NOS tail lights were well above $1,000 and a good clean refreshed set above $600. The tail lights are not reproduced and the market has settled at around $400 for a set. The up side of these items demanding a high price is that it becomes affordable for vendor to reproduce them. I paid $150 + for a NOS mast 6 years ago. I have not seen one sell since then but know that I paid $1,000 for NOS tail lights at the same time. You would also have to consider the cost and complexity of set up to re manufacture. If I remember correctly someone located the original tail light molds etc...I may not be correct on this but I am sure someone on here will jump in with correct information. We are back to demand and cost of manufacture on the mast. I believe that an accurate reproduction to original specifications would easily bring $75.00 to $100 maybe more.

My car has 119000km on the clock (only 74000 Mls!) and the bushings are reasonable.. But i will put new ones in in the near future.. With my 240z i used all Original nissan rubber.. never used those hard poly bushings.. i don't want those! Much to stiff.. I've seen a poly bushing go very wrong in a 300zx suspension! The suspension had suffered a crack.. I don't race these cars on a track so to me a comfy ride is what i prefer..

Yes, use the long valve in the front bowl and put the float back in the original holes like Nissan intended. The fuel level needs to be lower in the front bowl and that makes it easy. What happened with the ztherapy plastic sightglasses in the first post ? That's what I use. Or the ones by Randalla. Or use the "both nozzles at same height, same fuel level in the nozzle" method. If you can use either of those methods why bother measuring .55 inch or whatever ? That method is a little iffy, even if it's in the FSM. Make sure the car's sitting level, not on a sloping driveway while setting the floats.

Look at the post above yours. And the date. Sold

Does it make sense that raising the float pin height on the front's ears to the same as the rear's would be the reason the front nozzle is lower at four turns down? Just curious, trying to learn/make sense of this on going problem. The funny thing to me is @240260280 was down there right when all this mess started.

Turn that assembly upside down and get in front of a mirror. Hold the float with your other hand. Blow into the fuel supply hose barb. When your breathe starts passing through look into the mirror and see where the float is. Bend the tab until the float' roof is parallel with the lid's roof. You will be close. Find something .55" thick and use it between the float and the lid while still using your breathe as fuel to get the float .055" lower than the lid. I can't be any clearer, that's as simple as I can get without puppets. You cannot set the float level upside down with the weight of the float against the pin. The newer style valves are very sensitive and will not resist the float's weight at all, period, done.

The finish is not too important. However the run out, (comsistency of the radius) is much more important. This should be check before installation. If there are high or low spots it will cause premature bearing wear.

.55" from the underside of the lid and the top front of the float, pushed up. You shouldn't be able to blow any air through the valve. Think about the float in your toilet. .55" from the lid to the top of the toilet's float with it full of water. When the tank float get to a certain level the water quits entering the tank. Your tank isn't filling up enough now so when you flush you still have caca in the seat.

Yes. That's easiest way to get initial float level for me. Glue the cork gaskets onto the lids and only use two screws while taking them off and on. You will get it right after 2 or 3 attempts. Don't rush this, wait until you have plenty of time. Hold them right side up and blow through fuel bung while pushing the float upwards. Have something that is .55" wide and hold it against the bottom of the lid. When you are at .55" you should not be able blow any air. Valve is closed. Fine tune with the mixture knobs

Steve's got it right, I didn't take time to convert to millimeters. 5/16 on the feed, 3/16 on the return is what I have.

I agree with Patcon, . Jalex, IMHO, YOU should be the one tuning these carbs. You don't need no freak'in "expert" or even a "mechanic". You'll be glad you learned how. Let me try to convince you with a trip in my WayBack Machine. 1973, The first thing I worried about when I bought my first Z was the horror stories I'd heard about British cars with SU duel carbs and constantly having to tinker with them. I didn't know anything about them, sooo, I took it to a "sports car garage" for it's first tuneup. $76.00 (a fair amount of money in 1973) later I drove the car home and realized that the tune-up hadn't changed the way it ran, which was good, before and after. I realized that I couldn't afford frequent tune-ups at that price. (Thought it would need them) I bought a Uni-Syn and a repair manual and started cleaning and checking the carbs when I tuned it up. They were always fine. It wasn't until I took a suction chamber off, out of curiosity, that I realized how simple the whole thing was. I already knew about float chambers and had read the tune-up manual. It was the EUREKA MOMENT. There was little to them. Not as complicated as a downdraft carb. To this day I'm amazed at how simple and effective the SU's are and still don't understand where the fear factor came from, unless it was the British aspect. You can do it. Give it a try. All it takes is a balancing gizmo, a screwdriver, a tune-up manual and a beer.

I have dealt with Z therapy more than once and their service and products are outstanding!!!!! Maybe it's operator error?

Hi Mark. Based upon a Janspeed design, very short primary pipes and was a popular S30 fitting here back in the early '80s. I've used it as the base for my 280ZX header as the secondary pipes drop down nicely under the firewall. https://www.google.fr/search?q=janspeed+datsun&rlz=1C1VSNC_enFR576FR576&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiHkOniiPDYAhWiKsAKHU51DjMQ_AUICigB&biw=1920&bih=949#imgrc=_ Regards, Sean

I just got my 280Z Arbath system with resonator. One of those while Im at it projects. Had the downpipe off to weld in an adapter for the O2 sensor for the new ECU. It will be a couple of weeks or more before I can fit it and see how it sounds.