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Don't go by the clock. Go by the TEMP gauge. Mine is good when the needle lines up with the right leg of the "M". That's where the thermostat opens on my car. Use the choke or drive easy until it stops backfiring. once you get the float levels right it shouldn't stumble. Mine did it for a year until i got so fed up and adjusted them correct level. Now I can not make it stumble.

The guy that lives 25' from me is an agent and surely has read my background. His three kids love me to death, wife super friendly. The agent, not too friendly but I have a key to his house and he has one for mine. So yes it has some flags but they're outnumbered.

Those carbs aren't correct for a 1969 or early 1970 production car. The early carbs have no float drains and the float bowl lids were diffferent, sometimes referred to as "Mickey Mouse ears". Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

The bigger one pointing down is all I have plugged. A rubber chair leg stopper works great. Thanks @jfa.series1

THANX SITE. As the reassembly of mine transitions write-ups like this will help us all avoid MAIN HARNESS BBQ's!

3 psi is more than enough fuel pressure to get your car running right!

Then some nut kills a bunch of kids and was all over the internet but didn't get noticed. Information overload is what I think. How in the world can they read all of what we type?

Time for a little more knowledge today After i posted pictures from my T/C rod bushings in various forum-threads, people replied that i should swap to rubber in the back. After discussing a few topics i figoured out that original rubber bushings are still available new from Nissan and ordered a set, which i was able to pick up today: The problem: According to many people, the T/C rod tends to brake at the yellow area, when PU-bushings are used both in front and rear of the Frame-rail mount. This due to much counterstrength whith the hard PU-bushings. For sciences' sake i decided to compare both setups with an original NOS 240Z frame rail i have in my shop. Top: Front PU / rear Rubber Bottom: Front PU / rear PU 1st: Both PU. Fits perfect, but it's very stiff, both compression and angle-movement wise. Second: Front PU / rear rubber. You still have the advantage of PU-front (less rearwards movement during compression, red arrow), while having more freedom of angle-movement (yellow arrow) and therefore minimized the chance that the T/C rod will brake. So thanks all for the inputs and advice and i'll definitely stick with the PU / Rubber combination for best performance and with least failure rate

I don't really want to break a butterfly on a wheel here, but... *polite cough*

You realise that AMPCO/Atsugi were part of the Nissan group of companies, now under the very wide wing span of Hitachi, right? Maybe not. I'm interested (not to say flabbergasted...) to see that you are sticking with the idea of 'TORCO' as a supplier to Nissan. How about 'NISSAN MO'? Maybe 'GENUINEPA' or 'ARTSNISS'? The possibilities are almost endless...

Did you even read his post? It would appear that it went straight over your head.

I'm sorry but I find it hard to take the JDM Junkies thing seriously. He's got half a paper parts label, he's reading 'TORCO LTD' on it and concluding that 'TORCO LTD' were the manufacturers of suspension components for Nissan...? There may well be a parallel universe where somebody has found the other half of that paper label, is reading 'NISSAN MO' on it and concluding that 'NISSAN MO' were the manufacturers of suspension components for Nissan.

I am still at a loss of words since I picked up the car yesterday. My expectations were high and Rob exceeded them. Amazing is all I can say. I have a lot more to write and I will provide the details soon. I still can't believe the car is my little old 260z that I got as a college loner over 15 years ago. Now it is looking and running how it was intended to be. I have so many people I want to thank, but for now I will leave you with a few photos. p.s. Check out my son in the hatch area. Ben <- This is one happy Z owner.

Possibly even more if we count all of the supersessions and the 432-R specific one too, but the big differences are the mesh gauge 'count' and the rolling differences in the mounting brackets. Edit to add: Perhaps some of the confusion about what's "period correct" for Japan comes from the fact that the HS30-S 'Fairlady 240Z' and HS30 'Fairlady 240Z-L' models - produced and sold between October 1971 and the end of 1973 - came with the slat type grille also seen on Export model cars. All the 2-litre cars had mesh grilles right the way through production.