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And believe me I do apologize for this problem we seem to carry forward showing the lid/float turned upside down like this. This was shown by the original owner of ZTherapy using Grose Jets which we haven't been able to get for about 14 years. Can I get the video fixed to reflect how to do it with needles and seats? Not so far.....With needles and seats with the tiny spring inside, the weight of the float will over power the spring and your float level will be tits right out of the chute. Turn the damn thing over blow lightly into the fuel inlet tube while moving the float toward the lid. When the needle closes you should feel resistance to your breath. That's where your measurement should take place. Bend the tang on the float to get that gap from the top of the float to the bottom of the lid. Once you get both set the same, put your hands in your pockets and back away. THEN: You start tuning the carbs. First thing is THAT 2 1/2 TURN THING is ONLY a starting point. Steve sets our "out the door REMANS" at 2 1/2. Most any motor (or engine for you sticklers) will start at 2 1/2 turns down but almost assuredly will end up up or down from there BASED ON THE MOTOR. Set the mixture and balance and go use your butt dyno to make 'er run. Keep tweaking til it runs. I do have to ask: who's lid is this in the photo? Don't even tell me the caps are left on the overflows for running. I'm going to my room......

To de-clutter this thread a tad, the up-to-the-minute info from Z Therapy is that they have not offered Grose Jets in years. What's being discussed here is the older vs the current replacement version of the standard SU needle valve . The new one comes from a different source and is a little different in design. This photo compares the current version on the left to the OEM valve. Reference to Grose Jets in the ZTherapy video is outdated and should be treated as such. The Grose Jet is an entirely different critter.

Two points: I have supplied data to you in the past - which you have used - but you never acknowledged, and never credited. Over the years I have spent a lot of time, money and effort to seek out documentation, original photographs and data. I try to use it wisely, sparingly and when appropriately, and also try to understand it fully before utilising it. That includes how and when I 'share' any of it. Why would I simply give it all away for somebody to put on their 'blog' in the context that *they* choose, and without having any input? I get many, many requests for data and reference material and I do try to help with the majority of them, but I can't - sometimes won't - be able to help them all.

Found it, posted couple years ago. I was wrong it's 4 mm difference not 3. Still not clear how this relates to the 23 mm down from the underside of the lid measurement. Fig. EF-47 in the FSM shows a dimension "H" = 14 to 15 mm, that's almost but not exactly like the measurement of 11.5 to 12.5 mm rear, and 15.5 to 16.5 mm front in the tech bulletin. Fig. EF-47 shows the dimension from the underside of the lid to the tang on the float, while the picture in the bulletin shows it from the lid to the outer surface of the float. No big deal I guess. 0.55 inch = 14 mm 15.5 mm = 0.61 inch 11.5 mm = 0.45 inch So maybe make the plastic 0.61 for the front and 0.45 for the rear. TechnicalSupportBulletin-TS73-10.PDF I still think that method's iffy. Too dependent on fuel pressure and the action of the valve. Maybe the new valves with the skinny pins react different. BTW, the pins in the new valves are kind of wobbly and will stick open if the tang on the float isn't flat enough. Too much curve in the tang is bad. Maybe it's possible to substitute the pin with an old type pin, with the other parts new. Haven't tried, might not work.

I think they're saying the extra 7.5 turns down is that 1/16th you are talking about at 2.5 turns down? This simple thing people have done since they came off the boat has gotten knee deep on this thread and he has 3 active now. I think it'd be easier to raise the plane ticket money and send Mark down there and have boots/wrenches on the ground.

The attached image is the method often called for to set it initially, including what ZTherapy's DVD shows. This is what did not work AT ALL for me, because the grose jets that Ztherapy sent me no longer can support the weight of the float and made the adjustment very different from what the original intention was. If you use original jets with stronger springs then you can probably still use the original method. ---- For the Z therapy jets....technically what this image is illustrating is that at this height of the float, you want the grose jet to close and the fuel to shut off. I tried to simulate this by running a hose to the inlet port and pressurizing it by blowing in to. As I moved down the float I noted when the grose jet closed, and at THAT point in the travel, the gap from the lid to the float should be the 9/16" In actuality this didn't work and my levels were way off. So I did it the more cumbersome way by replacing the lid and float assembly each time I needed to adjust the tangs. ---- I even called Ztherapy to ask about this and was basically told that the adjustment method used in the video wasn't valid any more with the style of grose jets they use now. (I can't swear this applies to anyone else besides me, but that's what they said to me) I attached a picture of my float assembly which shows it being very droopy because the spring that forces the grose jet open wasn't strong enough to hold up the additional float weight so it just compressed. I had to bend my float bracket to such an extreme level to get the measurement that it didn't look right. If I recall correctly it made my fuel level way too low. As for the grose jet... I don't know if the Nissan one went NLA... I used the Ztherapy ones.

Cliff thanks...I’m looking forward to ZH’s reposnse. Could this be my smoking gun.

Yep. Specifically, those are the Hitachi HJG 46W-3A type. My cars came with the HJL 46W type. The heat shield is for the long return springs rather than the short ones.

It's a bit off-Topic so maybe we can discuss this in a personal conversation. I Totally get your Point. same here. Just wanted to mention that i have mentioned your Name at several places on my Website, and if i've missed it at some Point, please let me know, i will very happily update it with your Name. Sometimes i just don't remember where i got the data from several years back. Also i missed to post sources in the early Posts, which i've changed since then. Also it is free to anyone to comment on my blogposts in the comments section. i release and comment every comment there. As said, i totally get your Point and it was never my Intention to offend you or anything near that. I really appreciate the snippets of informations you spread along the interwebs. Together with the Information i have from original documentation (which i have to purchase from around the world as well), non factory documentation, FIA-homologations, etc. I try to puzzle together those Posts. It would sometimes already be very helpful to just know where i can get the information. i don't want to be lazy, i work for my Information. The big difference is that you seem to have far better sources and a bigger Network than me. so it makes it hard to get some informations that other have, and therefore complete things. Also please, in future, if you feel like i've done something in a wrong matter, let me know directly - i will try my best to get it right. we're grown up men after all, right? nevertheless thanks again for your Inputs and it's really a joy to read your Posts. Cheers

Hope it's ok i used this Picture from you to prove my fail on my blog? Thanks for your work. It's so obvious, i even got some NOS boxes with similar Stickers on it, i really wonder why i never got it

Bend the the tap upwards, away from the floats a very minor amount. This will make the valve close sooner and lower the fuel level in the float bowl

So we can put this item to rest -- here's the partial label positioned over a complete Nissan label. A little tweaking was necessary to allow for the condition of the original, plus there are minor differences in scale between the two.

I'm sorry but I find it hard to take the JDM Junkies thing seriously. He's got half a paper parts label, he's reading 'TORCO LTD' on it and concluding that 'TORCO LTD' were the manufacturers of suspension components for Nissan...? There may well be a parallel universe where somebody has found the other half of that paper label, is reading 'NISSAN MO' on it and concluding that 'NISSAN MO' were the manufacturers of suspension components for Nissan.

We sent out the invites for guests recently, so we don't have responses back, yet. I'm pretty much counting on John Morton being here on account of his friendship with Randy. I can't remember the full invite list, but it does include some familiar names like Yamasan and Matsuosan. The track day will be at Road Atlanta. Even if you're not taking a car on the track, it's a great place to hang out. People in the Southeast who haven't been to Road Atlanta before might want to come down for The Mitty this year and get an idea of what things are like at the track. It's one of my favorite hangouts in the Atlanta area. I believe we will also be trying to recreate the photo taken at the previous ZCON in Atlanta. The autocross will be at Lanier Raceplex. The facility began its life as an oval track, and the current owners paved the infield. It makes for a tight, short autocross course, and competitors should be able to get in several good runs. It will definitely focus on handling and concentration as opposed to horsepower. After autocross, there's not much reason to head back to the hotel quickly because we also have an evening of karting at Lanier Raceplex planned, as well. These karts are capable of speeds up to 60 MPH. For people who aren't able to bring a car for track day or autocross, here's your chance to show off your driving skills. There will be a trip into Atlanta one night for an evening at Sweetwater Brewery where you can sample some local craft beers. For those of us wanting an alternative experience, I am trying another karting event together at K1 Speed. It's an indoor facility with electric karts. It's also within staggering distance of the hotel, though I'm not trying to imply that it's part of a pub crawl event. We're also planning to lead a drive though the North Georgia Mountains. The Prezident of the GZC is a Civil Engineer who has spent much of his career working with GDOT on the roads in North Georgia, so he is very familiar with the best of the twists and turns in the area. We'll plan a route that will take the group up to Helen, GA, a community with architecture modeled after an old German town. I'm getting together a list of shopping and wineries, as well as a good list of local attractions. I'll include some off-beat opportunities and small car museums, too, like the Georgia Racing Hall of Fame, Old Car City USA, and Tank Town USA. By the way, the Sonesta Hotel was picked in part so people can easily drive to places like Road Atlanta, Lanier Raceplex, and the other attractions of North Georgia. If you leave in the morning going north, you should be able to avoid most of the commuter traffic. We are hoping to give convention attendees the opportunity to have as much fun as they want.