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I experienced ocassional fuel bowl overflow. I attributed the issue to less than optimal float tang geometry. The modern valve stem design does not glide on the tang as easily as the original design as has been said in this thread previously. My solution was to remove the sealing washers from the base of the fuel valve body to lid/inlet port. Once I did that, tang to valve geometry is improved and issue went away.

more my style. Paul Simon is too cool

I'm not sure how well that procedure would translate to other languages, or how much sense it would make to someone who's native language is not English. You might be about to find out...

With the piston in and dome in place start running the screws down unformly while lifting the piston with a finger and allowing it to drop. If you are cattywompis and the needle is binding, back the screws off a smidge and nurse the dome sideways until it (the needle) drops freely. Continue until screws are tight and the needle drops cleanly into the orifice...... Do not under penalty of death, adjust your floats during this operation...... Now that's funny I don't care who you are!!

Jeff, somehow I missed this thread, but YouTube's algorithm picked up the slack and your videos popped up in my feed a few days ago, and I've been following along since. Great work and great videos. Oh, I spent nine years as a firefighter as well!

I see you hooked up the sightglasses. Just bend the plastic hose and hold it vertical right against the side of the float bowl. Get a pencil and draw a horizontal line on the float bowl that lines up with the fuel level. Then do the same with the other carb. Get your micrometer and measure the millimeters from the bottom of the lid (or the top of the bowl plus the gasket) and write it down. Then check the other one and write it down. It should be about 25 mm down for the front one and 21 mm down from the lid for the rear. If it's close then you're ready to fine-tune it with the "nozzle" method. If it's Within 1 mm it's close enough since the fuel level goes up and down that much when the engine is running, as the float valve opens and closes. If you watch the sightglasses carefully with the engine running you can see that happening. Use the nozzle method for the last stage since it's the most accurate. Also with the nozzle method you don't need to think about the fuel in the front bowl being lower than the rear. They should both be the same level in the nozzles. If you check it 10 down in the nozzle and they're both very close to right, then you're done. Don't get carried away getting it perfect. You can get almost perfect, adjust the tang very slightly, and just make it worse. In fact the process can be described as "make it better, make it worse, make it better, call it good". Just make sure you "call it good" after making it better, not after making it worse.

I thought you might be when I saw your pants with the reflective strips. By the way Jeff, love the new bug. I have a "one owner" 56 bug my dag bought new in Germany waiting for it's turn. Next in line after the Z currently on the rotisserie...

There are solutions posted that don't require anything but an initial ballpark for the float position. This is what I had to do. I would suggest not even bothering with a measurement, and instead install it, fill the bowls and see how high they are. Then adjust the float up or down and repeat. This is the only way I could get mine properly set, and I well understood why my original measurements weren't working. Bite the bullet and forget about the 14mm etc. I stand by the 10 turns approach and set as I detailed above. This didn't originate from me, but it did work well for me.

Thanks everyone great help.

I always value your opinion Madkaw......thanks for pushing me over the edge in regards to FI......Time to step up to new technology......it is twice the cost of carbs......maybe I’ll start a go fund me L series motor!

1972 FSM EF Engine Fuel System.pdf BF Body.pdf BR Brake System.pdf CL Clutch.pdf CO Cooling System.pdf Contents forward.pdf cover.pdf EC Emission Control System.pdf EE Engine Electrical.pdf

We have had numerous customers asking for new floats. It covers everything from "I stabbed mine with a screw driver" to "they are soaking up gas". The longer time has gone on the more prevalent the calls have become. We have been installing used floats up to now just to get good ones going out but the combination of the cries for floats and our supply of "good used" getting leaner, it was time . NISSAN had no more and pricing on the last we bought from them was about 3 times what ours are going for. Bottom line: Time to step up and add another part to our manufactured list. All of our Z car and 2 liter roadsters will now include ZT-30 floats as part of the package....... Any of our carbs out in the field will have perfectly serviceable floats (until you stab them with a screwdriver or some such)......