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Forget measuring the float position relative the bowl lid...it does not work. Remove the sealing washer from under the needle valve body to give more range of adjustment. Bend tab until fuel level is 1/16" below top of nozzle set at 2.5 turns down...just like most everyone is telling you to do. If float hits lid when inverted, that is ok as fuel shut off occurs prior to end of range of motion. Confirm by blowing through inlet and moving float slowly to ensure fuel shut off actually does occur prior to float hitting lid.

Elliot, good advice here, look for a complete car starting point. You have a large active 510 group in your area. If you don't already know it, check out the 510realm.com forum. They can help you find a project car.

Saw this on Facebook and had to share.

Nobody on here hates you. Don't say that.

Stop trying to set the floats by measuring them. You're getting focused on something that can be bypassed and ignored. Put away all types of measuring tools where you won't be tempted to use them. The 1/16" below the nozzle tops at 2 1/2 nozzle turns is the goal. The fuel level in the nozzles is the same as the fuel level in the float bowls. Get the fuel at 1/16" below the nozzle tops and the fuel level in the float bowls will be PERFECT. Even if you thought you had the floats set right by measuring something, to be sure they were correct, you'd pull the domes, pistons and check the fuel height in the nozzles 1/1/6",nozzles, 2 1/2, adjust nozzles, nozzles, floats, mixture, nozzles, 2 1/2, nozzles. Whoops. My LP is getting worn out and starting to skip. I'd hate to start sounding like a broken record.

Mark, You are the best! Thanks for your patience! I know some people hate me for opening too much threads but every issue of these cars must be solved logically!

That headrest is a great find. I believe it is a nismo reissue from their 15th anniversary. Ben

Looks lean. If fuel level was set correctly, I don't think you would need to be 4 turns down (I don't like clockwise or counter clockwise as it is specific to point of view). To me, clockwise is up or lean, but I think you mean clockwise as down/rich. So, have you removed the pistons and verified fuel is 1/16" down from top of nozzle at 2.5 turns down/out/rich? If not, why not? From there, fine tuning should get you darn near perfect with one turn of nozzle adjustment in either direction.

The electric fuel pump is essentially a helper pump. It's only running after the car has started. Have you replaced all of the soft fuel lines under the hood and going back to the tank? Old hoses crack and let in air. The symptoms would be similar to what you described. It could also be a mechanical fuel pump with a damaged diaphragm. If you have replaced the soft lines, I suggest changing the mechanical fuel pump out. There are several choices for mechanical fuel pumps at Rockauto at $35 and less with similar parts & prices at Amazon, so it's not a big expense. I can probably come up to see you in a couple of weeks to give you some suggestions about sorting things out on your car, too.

The Scarab 240Z's are unusual and of higher value than the common 240Z to many people. Especially if they were built by the guy that designed them (I think that's the guy, right, Brian Morrow?). Here's a link - http://www.zhome.com/rnt/v8.html

A Scarab is a very unique car. They tend to be very rare and one in great shape could bring this kind of money. Early year 240z's are bringing this kind of money and more if they are the right car in the right place...

Might be that you actually have two problems. Have you tried starting fluid? If you have power at the coil and still no start, check for spark. If you have no spark consider the igntion module.

Take it back to the store. Maybe Harbor Freight will exchange it for another one.

The car is a blast to drive.....no dyno yet....when it snows, I give it 4 rains before I drive to clear any road salts. We are in the process of building another stroker for the green 72. Eiji will put Mikunis on this motor.