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Interesting that someone would go the effort and expense of stamping out the "close to original" hubcaps and then screw up the paint. It would be like forging a blonde haired version of daVinci's Mona Lisa painting and hoping no one would notice. Dennis

Thanks Steve, I have got the grommets in hand, quality is just fantastic. I will make two early shift boots for these grommets! Kats

Maybe, maybe not. For me, not so much. Worked fine and was spot on for the front carburetor (long valve), but was way off for rear carb (short valve). The fuel level in the rear carb had to be set significantly higher on my engine for proper tuning. Hard to say what has changed with the carbs over the years that make one method work or not work. For instance the fuel bowl indexing bushing could be wrong for the position (front or rear carb) which could affect how fuel level in the bowl correlates to the level at the nozzle. In the end, the fuel level at the nozzle is the only thing that matters so why not check the level where it matters and forget the other dubious methods.

Appreciate the info [emoji109][emoji106] Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

Here's what I went by and they work fine without modifying anything. Read down to tire sizing, middle of the page. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic05a02/25-1149

SU's work fine with the top of the fuel at 23mm down from the inside roof of the fuel bowl. This translates to ~20mm down from the margin where the lid rests on the fuel bowl

Now we need to find out who is making them, talk them into making the correct black and selling them as repops.

Remember that the stock rims are 14" which has a big impact on tire selection. Also, you seem to be in weight reduction mode, alloys would be lighter.

People have posted about pushing the bumpers in on their shock absorber mounts, then locking them in place. FastWoman for one, and others. Still bulky but won't stick out so far.

Getting it off is tough, it’s spot welded to the car, I pulled mine because it sticks out as far as a 240 bumper. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

If crap is that grey area I referred to, then yes. There are many variables in the floats, some that come to mind are, are all floats the same after forty five years, the differences in needle valves, wear in the float pivots etc. Just bend the tab a little, remove a little fuel from the bowl, reassemble the carb, fire it up, shut it down (choke off), remove domes and pistons, check fuel level in nozzles, if it needs adjusted, just bend the tab a little bit, etc.

Got a reply from the seller: "Thand you for interested my D caps. I took a vacation trip to asia countries. I found a few set. I kept 1 set for my car. Tell you the true. I did not know, they look brand new to me and fit very good. Thanks" He also updated the description in the Ebay ad. I looks like someone is making reproductions.

I ended up keeping the '77 rear bumper and just run the front 240 bumper. Looks pretty good and have the extra protection back there.

It would likely fit, but would look odd. In order to get the passenger rear bumper shock off you have to drop the tank. That’s a fun project. Here’s an idea:

The fuel level is supposed to be 4 mm lower in the front carb float bowl, but that's not it, right? There's a couple of things I've noticed that might help or not. A float can get hung up on the side of a bowl, depending on how it sits. That can make it stick closed or possibly open. Can be fixed by rubbing the area of the float that hits the side of the bowl with sandpaper. Also, especially with the new type float valves with the thinner, more wobbly pins, if the pin doesn't contact the float tang at 90 degrees it can wobble forward and jam against the tang when the float comes up, so the valve doesn't open. Fix by flattening the tang so it hits the pin at 90 degrees. The red straw from a can of carb cleaner will fit through the vent on the float bowl lid so it sits on top of the float. Using that, sometimes you can tell if the float is sticking, and approximately how much gas is in the bowl.

Real has 7 bends. Fake has 5 bends

Glad they are getting reproduced. Not glad people are scamming others.

I just completed the refresh of one of our members antenna. It was great to have the rubber parts available for this project. Thanks 240Z Rubber Parts.com for these great reproduction parts. The latest being the drain tube and grommet.

Here's a video of some members of the planning committee hard at work, verifying that the go karts at Lanier Raceplex are suitable for ZCON attendees. We are doing our best to leave no detail to chance.

Well sounds like we would get along swell [emoji482] now in regards to your assessed value I couldn't agree more! Wish I could say I paid less but 16k was the final figure. The original owner teared up as she handed me the keys, her last name is O'Neil so in respect to her my plates will read Oneil78! Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

For boots: NOS leather with string on ebay now: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-1970-73-OE-Shift-Boot-Console-NOS-4-speed-NEW-427/323039827512?fits=Model%3A240Z&epid=1922201542&hash=item4b36ac9638:g:PSMAAOxywOtSX~Tr&vxp=mtr

Consider this for a moment if you will......Right now you don't have a car payment, will you be able to say that a month from now?