Leaderboard

This is my first batch out of the barrel plater. They look ok, but some of them burnt. They could also be shinier. The barrel is so slick inside, the material doesn't rotate. It just slides. So I worked on modifying it yesterday. I may try another batch on Sunday

I wonder how the people who already purchased sets of these would feel to be learn that the parts were misrepresented as NOS from the OEM, but are in fact newly pressed repros. If I were judging at a concourse show, I would slam these things hard in my judge eval. I also wonder if the people selling these have properly claimed them (and the value they represent) on their customs import forms. I also question the country of origin as Japan. I wonder how that can be confirmed. I mean, I'm all for parts being made available. And if repros are necessary because originals are unavailable, then I got nothing wrong with that either. But clearly advertise and sell them as repros. Passing them off as OEM or NOS, or rebuilt originals is deceitful.

At least now i know that the carbs can work with 3 psi. I can move on and continue adjusting the floats by narrowing the gap until i reach to 2.5 turns.

Fabricated and plated a few battery cable clips today. Tomorrow I will put the rubber on them.

You should report that to ebay. I believe if there was no reserve, he is obligated to some degree. You should sic the ebay dogs on him. First for counterfeit parts, then for improper business practices.

Looking for a picture of the original factory installed 240z inner door plastic vapor barrier. I have been so busy the last 3 years with www.240zrubberparts.com helping out other owners with their projects, my project has been stalled out. I started working on getting the doors back together today. Everything has been replated and installed new window rollers and cups.

No face plate. I thought about the radio I didn't have the $ to get it. I was expecting it to be picked over having been on CL for 2 days. These don't last long in the yards. I posted this so other members know about it and can get in on it. That was the main focus for my trek there. An early 70 solid spoke. I did get it.

With help from people like Mark I've come to realize I like working on mine more than driving it. Fixing problems gives me that sense of accomplishment unlike driving one.

Congratulations, we're getting close. Keep in mind the goal is NOT to get it to run well at 2 1/2 turns. The goal is to get the floats set to 2 1/2 turns THEN adjust the mixture screws to fine tune it. The float level at 2 1/2 turns down (clockwise) is the primary mixture adjustment. We've got to get the floats right before we can fine tune.

Flat medium wrinkle grey. Similar to the S20 engines in the original 432 and GTR. Most people do black or red but I think the grey will be more suited for this one and will contrast the color well. The trim, spoilers, roll cage and wheels will also all be gunmetal to tie in the theme. In my daily searches I stumbled upon this while looking for JDM lights which is the craziest part I have ever seen for the Z31. It's for an 86 and has a 10k redline vs the original 8k. It's like it was meant for this project! I also love the tricolor display for tach and speed as well as the nifty sub 1/4 tank detail gauge like my old 87 Pathfinder had. Totally 80's, totally rad! I was racking my brain on what to do about the tach because I wanted to keep the factory cluster but also wanted to know my correct revs. I was planning on going with a digital display but now I can keep it old school.

Wording is getting out about these being reproductions...

In and out, up and down are nozzle terms I'm used to but, I'm a man. I can change. If I have to. I guess.

Jalex. Glad to hear things are improving. Did you check the fuel level in the nozzles? The float level may be getting close. Is close good enough for you? Not for me when all it takes the removal of six screws to check both carbs but it's your call. If you're satisfied with the float level for now, go ahead and start adjusting the mixture screws. You're going to have to adjust the valves and possibly do a compression test when you're ready to address the problem in #4. Cliff, I've figured it out. Jalex's point of reference is from the top view. Visualizing the screw from that vantage point, the screw does turn clockwise to drop the nozzle. It really doesn't matter to me as long as we're all on the same page.

let seller know not real and are reproductions...

Its been a four year journey, but the red devil is running and driving under her own steam!! Can't recall the tb type, came out of my parts stash and had lots of work done to make it work. Car hasn't been registered since 1989 so am pretty proud to be the one to put the car back on the road. Still lots of work to do (: Will get video clip posted shortly.

Thanks Charles- that helps . My center bar won’t be that high off the ground plus you said you had 5” of clearance . Gives me an idea if I’m in the ballpark

Thanks, ammonia is a good tip. I have a car that needs stripping...

@Terrapin Z So sad to see my cars sibling in such condition. They are only 3 digits apart. Zilver's Vin is HLS30-167424