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So, a little feedback from my experience with redoing all the hard lines in my '73 Z, except for the fuel vent line. I went with Classic Tube's stainless steel version of their pre bent lines rather than OEM steel. I had them send me an enlarged fuel return line (5/16th) rather than the stock size. I took a fine scotch Brite pad to them to shine them up and the end result to me looks awesome. They are just the look I was going for against the blue paint, which I had just repainted in the engine bay. For each connection, I tightened and loosened about 6 times each as recommended by Classic Tube, and each connection sealed nicely. Also, threads are 10mm, but the flare nut is a 7/16". I bought, just for the occasion, a nice Snap On flare nut wrench to do the job so I didn't round any corners during all the tightening and loosening. The connections worked well. They come with nice, solid flare nuts to work with. However! I found that the lines as shipped ONLY VAGUELY resembled my original lines and in no possible way would any of them (not even one of the shortest lines) just drop into the little retainers along their paths. All of them needed major manipulation in the form of unbending and rebending to get them to sit nicely in their respective grooves. It took several days of work and very sore hands to make them work out. And in some areas deep in the back of the chassis I barely got them to fit. If I didn't just happen to be an orthodontist where I bend wire for a living, they never would have worked and I would have been completely frustrated. Stainless steel is definitely harder, but not unbendable. My biggest complaint is that I halfway was expecting the lines to just drop right in. The other half of me was thinking that must be too good to be true. In my experience, a perfect fit as shipped was too good to be true. But I was able to make it work, and the end result, I think, is beautiful.

Delivered Scott's completed seats for his red 78 on Saturday, a nice 70 degree spring day. Zup came over in his 240 to assist & make sure the 73 model year was represented. (Thanks for the conversation and great burgers you made later Jim!) Seats look good in the red car, which may be the one he takes to Branson this year. A happy project ending.... Some shots of the seats in the car & 1 of the modification to extend the material for the closure of the problem area of the seat backs.

I have just purchased my first Z. - S30-100698. I think it is a 1973 model however but would welcome some guidance. JDM version, 5 speed, 2.0l. Believed to have come from Japan by an ex-serviceman.

Grabbed a '75 280z late last year and have been (slowly) trying to get it running. I have always loved the cars, but this is the first chance I've had to own one. Definitely learned a lot so far and looking forward to learning and participating in the forums here! Ben

ill take the 6 plugs out today and will post a picture from left to right 6-5-4-3-2-1

Have you guys checked zcarsource? Looks like they have some but at a high price. I don't recall which one she needs but if the insurance company is taking care of it then it may not matter right? NEVERMIND!! Sorry, they don't have it. I called them.

Seen on FB and found on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Art-Carburetor-Advanced-Pepper/dp/B0091OI1MK

Join the Z Car Club of New England too. Great group! http://zccne.org/

I think someone posted his car with a little comision added on. That ole boy's getting pissed like I did with that red 240 I put on CL. It's worth $3,000 in my opinion and most states won't require a title. When you get a little drunk one evening call a chain auto parts store and tell them you need a water pump for an '83 911SC. See how long you can keep them looking.

You forgot the happy face emoji , so I added one. Good news. Sounds like we're getting close. The trace of color on the two plugs looks good. I'm told that the darker tan color that we all used to try to achieve is not applicable to modern gas formulas. Were all the plugs about the same color, especially #4? Please explain "Even better when the pump measured 4.2 psi." You shouldn't notice any difference in the performance whether the fuel pressure is at 3 psi - 4.2 psi. If you have noticed a difference, I would suspect a float needle valve is leaking.

Only allowed one crisis at a time — how did the car run??

Hello, I’m Chris from the Netherlands. I’m new here and looking for people who can help me on specific parts. As the blue panels and the right vinyl. Als looking for a left door clear glass window. about the car, it was in much better condition as I expected it to be.

OK, here is a pic. You can see the difference with the fuel line which is normal steel. Everything else is stainless.

finished re-building the su's following the detailed info on the "just su's" video - new nozzles & sm needles all set up. these carbs have got to be the simplest think on the planet compared to the 4-barrel chevy stuff i've worked on. the trickiest part was setting the float levels, but even that was pretty straightforward. while i was at it, i beveled & polished the pistons and trimmed the butterfly screws to get 'em out of the air stream. then just for fun i hit the float bowls & linkage w/the buffer wheel to make 'em shine a little. i ordered a firewall grommet for the choke cables and when that arrives i'll put the su's on my current engine (along w/the low-pressure fuel pump) and do some initial tuning and a butt-dyno comparison w/the efi. butterfly bolt trim: piston bevel: all done: