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So it sounds like jdmfairlady21 just needs to limp it to Zcon near you and he'll have all the help he needs! I think I'm capable of learning them, but I've never messed with them. And learning on the fly on someone else's car while they watch isn't my idea of a recipe for success. Put a set of round tops or even flat tops on that 74, and I'm all over it.

Yes, there were some great cars there. Mike Malamut's Mazda Cosmo took first in the Japanese class. His Mazda Rebo and a Honda sport coupe were the 2nd and 3rd place winners. The Judges graded on restoration excellence. The 2000 GT was easily the priciest car in the Japanese class and garnered a lot of attention. I would venture to say that my Z got almost as much attention as the 2000 GT. The show was very busy which blows my mind since the cost to enter is way high at $70. I usually attend the free show outside and peek through the fence at the cars inside. The cars in the show were just insane; Bugatti's old and new, Rolls Royce's and ton of Mercedes, Duesenbergs, McLarens, a 1963 Lola GT that had like an 8 man pit crew prepping it before the show, a charger Super Bird. I could go on and on. Amazing cars and a lot of fun. Glad the 240Z was well received. Oh, one other cool thing happening here: the Petersen Museum in LA ( https://www.petersen.org/) is doing a year long exhibition starting in May contrasting Japanese and US car design styles. They asked if my roadster was available to present as part of the display, so I will be loaning that out to them for a year. Nice to see the Japanese cars getting some visibility. Also nice to get some free storage . I need space

I've been using Centric brand rotors on the race car for the last few years and they've held up well. I get them from Rock Auto or Amazon. I also use their aluminum drums. We use Carbotech pads. They make several different compounds. Check their website and/or email them with questions. They're easy to deal with. Chuck

You'll find out WHY when you change them.

I can find 4 people nearby easily who could set up triple Webers for me. That's the advantage of living in God's Country.

Haha! So you need an old guy with Weber experience. I'd give you a hand, but it'd be blind leading the blind as I've never touched the Webers. Car looks cool. Hope you can get her sorted before the driving season!

UPDATE: I have been so busy with baseball I have not had a chance to post in a long while, but the transmission is cleaned up and ready to install. Ordered an new clutch and pressure plate. I may or may not change those though as I only have 3000 miles on my stock clutch. I will change out the throw out bearing though for sure.

I just wanted to confirm that "choke on" is higher or lower RPM. I have a 280Z so don't know what the choke does on these cars. Just confirming, with numbers. I love numbers. I like the potentiometer idea. I proposed it in a past thread, but it might have been for one of the MSD/tach problems. Great minds!!!! Really, this problem crops up now and then, and it should be either too much or too little current. There's a solution for either. If I recall right, the stock system does not add up to 3 ohms of resistance, so there's no obvious answer. We need numbers! Edit - by the way, the quick way to bypass the tach would be to just tap in to the supply line and the return line, in th harness. One inch of wire, in the harness, you don't need to even get up close to the tach. You could put a potentiometer there to control resistance of the bypass. If the pot in the bypass doesn't work, move it to the tach supply line.

@jalexquijano Keep an eye on the post dates. Some of the ones you're responding to are inactive now. If you want to flag someone you need the @ symbol before the person's name. Click on the person you want to flag from the pop up list and it's done. I think you're right. It's time for a new set of plugs. This may sound a bit random but humor me. Have you ever tried to start the engine without the choke when the engine is cold? When you put the new plugs in, try starting it with no choke. If it doesn't start in the normal length of time, give it 1/4 choke and try again. No Start? Go to 1/2 choke, etc. I want you to cold start the engine with the least amount of fuel (choke) as possible. When it does start, baby the throttle but keep it running at a busy idle. You may need to blip the throttle now and then when the idle starts to drop. Warm it up enough to drive it. Hit the road and let us know how it acted. The more detail the better, starting with how much choke was needed to start it.

What I meant by the word "packaging" in my previous post was how the exhaust packages on the car (not in a box for shipping) as the prime reason for going twin pipes instead of a larger single.

Fujitsubo quote the current pipe diameter - several times in several different places - as 50.8mm x 2. Volume 13 of NOSTALGIC SPEED magazine - published July 2017 - carried an 'Advertorial' feature on the new Fujitsubo Legalis R system for the S30-series Z. See scans below: Old design on the right, new design on the left: Box on the bottom right gives data for an L28 engine in the tested car. Apparently their improvements have been realised through various changes, notably the exhaust manifold and the resonator box re-design.

Mine too! I still love these guys. They are a part of the sound of my childhood. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I know I should do WAY more advertizing but this is simply a first attempt to say "its for sale" to this very unique group. It's never been dyno'ed, but my butt dyno says 250/275 HP/Torque. And I should share the sound of this thing, it;s intoxicating and you can barely hear the intake noise with that dang air box.

No worries about not being seen in traffic with that color lol.