Leaderboard

I like the torquey 3.1 liter, 7500 rpm screamer that goes “rumpety-rump!”

Thanks Cliff, first I would get rid of those watches and install some light weight pistons.

site, the N47 head is essentially the same as the N42 head. Nissan added the exhaust liners for cleaner emissions but didn't change anything else. So if you're not planning to do any porting work, or add a turbo, the two are about the same. The N47 typically comes with the oiler cam also. With carbs, exhaust and cam are probably the simplest power increasers. Increase air flow through the engine. After that, port work on the head. But even with port work, it's mostly intake, not exhaust. There is a lot out there about how effective compression ratio increases really are. They don't do much, on their own. I would read up on CR and its effects before going to the trouble of installing flat top pistons. There's a lot of money you can spend without really gaining much. Plan first then act.

I'm sure those are "drill shaped objects" from a different continent. If the only thing you are ever planning to do with them is drill brass, then you'll probably get a couple shots out of them before they go dull. That said... I wonder how important the true roundness and surface finish is on things like carb jets. Drill bits don't traditionally leave a very smooth finish (or round holes), and if those things are important, then it would be a much better idea to ream to final size instead of drill.

I like this one https://www.hodinkee.com/videos/spike-lee-artisans-de-geneve-paul-newman-rolex-cool-hand-brooklyn

I think something broke in your attachment. The good news is that the BMW mechanic said he could fix it, and it would only cost $5000.

Your comment being an example of the latter...

Just curious, but have you owned a Z or ZX, and driven one? Or did you just pick up an old car? No offense intended. I've not heard anyone call $800 for a used ZX 5 speed and flywheel a fair price. Might be different up in Buffalo though. Seems like you might be new to the world of Z's. Maybe surfing the California Datsun web site and getting wrong impressions. Did you drive the car before deciding to part out? Then you'd know more. Do you have mileage on the parts? And is the flywheel 225 or 240mm (coupe or 2+2)? Good luck.

With the key on and engine not running check both pins at the T connector for battery voltage. Sounds like your L connection is not complete. If you confirm that there are several ways to find L and get it connected. S will have power with the key off. Might as well verify that too. All the stuff you're doing at the old regulator plug is just for the purpose of getting L and S connected to the T plug. Might be that you just had bad jumpers. Check for S and L at the jumped plug also.

My sincere sympathy that you drank the Kool Aid.

No longer looking. I brought this 1975 Z home yesterday.

Looks like a mid 70’s S30 leading this pack. 77 or 78.