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Ahhh... A gracious trip down memory lane...looks better than my lovely 27th. February 1970 build, probably. I certainly hope the car is worth $100,000 when it's complete!

Welp, I'm a dummy. I didn't have the blue wire hooked to the coil. It works great now. Perfect response. Now just to figure out this temp sensor. I bought a new one today. Hope it works. "Do it in a Datsun"

If good fusible links are installed, all 4 white/red wires should have voltage to ground. The white/red coming off the black fusible link (assuming the links were installed in the right locations) branches off with one going to the alternator and the other branches off again with one leg going to the voltage regulator and the other going to connector C9 in the wiring diagram. The picture is zoomed in so close that I can't tell where in the loom you might be looking.

@Captain Obvious

That's great advice, Greg. I’ll look for some DeOxit and start cleaning connectors over the next few weeks. Hopefully, I’ll soon have a fairly reliable electrical system.

That's good that you easily found your culprits. I would suggest that since you've found corrosion in some of the connections there is a probability that there are more in other connections. When you get the chance I would suggest going through every electrical connection on the harnesses and check just for preventive measure. I recently did this and found some potential problems. I replaced quite a few with new connectors and cleaned up the rest with DeOxit. Glad I did.

My new-to-me 1975 280Z didn’t have working turn signals when I bought it a few days ago. So, this morning I set out to get them operational. When I measured voltage on the common pin of the turn signal switch (Green) with the switch in the neutral position, I saw normal battery voltage. Then, when I moved the switch to either the left or right position, the common pin ‘s voltage dropped to near zero. I next unplugged the 3-pin connector for the turn signal (the connector towards the left-center part of the attached photo) and ran a jumper wire to the common pin on each side of that connector, thus isolating the circuit load (turn signals) and associated wiring. When I then operated the switch, the common pin’s voltage remained at normal battery voltage, and normal battery voltage also showed up at the pin for the left or right turn signals, corresponding to the position of the turn signal switch. I unplugged connector C-7 and saw the the pin associated with the ground (Black) was completely green with corrosion. I cleaned that up and tested my turn signals. They worked! While I was feeling good about my accomplishment, I check all the exterior lights to make sure they were working. The right parking light wouldn’t come on. When I removed the lens and unscrewed the bulb, it was also corroded. A little fine grit sandpaper cleaned that up and now all of my exterior lights work. On to the next project...

It may not seem like it but he is trying to help you, like he does most people. Did you bother to notice his posts count? 9,000+ if you filled in the blanks like he asked it might help things move along. Also if you start too high many people right it off as being unreasonably high...best of luck.

People ask for advice about price all the time on the forum. If your post was on Craigslist somebody could start a thread here asking if $800 was a fair price for a used 280ZX 5 speed. I was politely suggesting that it's kind of high. If you know the mileage why not post the number? It makes a difference in making a sale. Good luck. I'm doing you a favor.

No. The only one that goes directly to the fuse box is the same one that goes to the alternator. The one that goes to the multi-function stalk goes to the fusebox after the switch. The two that go to the ignition relay go to the fusebox after the relay. The one that goes to the ignition switch and powers some stuff after the switch does not go to the fusebox at all (which I consider a design flaw). For example, the starter solenoid has no fuse in the line at all. Neither does the ignition module or coil. Now that we have identified the wiring harness year (probably? hopefully?) you can download that year wiring diagram and take a look. Here's a mostly finished color wiring diagram for 78: http://www.classiczcars.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=41454