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No. They originally came with white paint where the red paint is now. Somebody painted them red, that's all. The only factory 'Red Z' for Japanese market S30-series Z models was on the horn pad of the S20-engined 432 and 432-R models.

Just remember that the power is in the head and tune on this motors. Any serious monies should be on the head ( cam, valve job, ) and induction system. Of course if want a decent bump in power you want to significantly change the cam specs. But then that leads into the relationship of CR and cam. These motors like cams and can be very street friendly and still make power to 7k. Most go with flat tops for bump in CR , but as mentioned you would have basically a ZX motor . The 79 head would have to be shaved to bump compression , but that’s not too $$. Don’t forget about gearing . Proper gearing with differential and trans can make for a fun , quick car with less power.

A bit pricy but... https://zcardepot.com/fuel-and-brake-line-bracket-kit-240z-70-72 i was missing a few and got lucky some one parting out a wrecked car. One of those odd ball parts you almost have to have.

My new-to-me 1975 280Z didn’t have working turn signals when I bought it a few days ago. So, this morning I set out to get them operational. When I measured voltage on the common pin of the turn signal switch (Green) with the switch in the neutral position, I saw normal battery voltage. Then, when I moved the switch to either the left or right position, the common pin ‘s voltage dropped to near zero. I next unplugged the 3-pin connector for the turn signal (the connector towards the left-center part of the attached photo) and ran a jumper wire to the common pin on each side of that connector, thus isolating the circuit load (turn signals) and associated wiring. When I then operated the switch, the common pin’s voltage remained at normal battery voltage, and normal battery voltage also showed up at the pin for the left or right turn signals, corresponding to the position of the turn signal switch. I unplugged connector C-7 and saw the the pin associated with the ground (Black) was completely green with corrosion. I cleaned that up and tested my turn signals. They worked! While I was feeling good about my accomplishment, I check all the exterior lights to make sure they were working. The right parking light wouldn’t come on. When I removed the lens and unscrewed the bulb, it was also corroded. A little fine grit sandpaper cleaned that up and now all of my exterior lights work. On to the next project...

With sizeoptimization i will end at 200$ for the preform and 100$ for the production. Now i started with the prototype (made with alu frame and rubber inserts to make the mold) I will see how it will look soon.

I don't know..I think I'd try and touch up that paint and leave it. Maybe lose the wire wheels.

The BRE Spook is perfect. I put one on my 1971 Z in 1972. Available from BRE or from MSA. Dennis