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Well, John Morton's engine let go in the first qualifying session. He should be on the track tomorrow. Here is part of the BF Goodrich display. Three lucky members of the Georgia Z Club (including yours truly) received new tires to show off. The first race was run late in the afternoon. GZC member Chet Wittel won the race after a 13 year lay-off from racing and in a car that was prepared at the last moment. Mad driving skills and home track advantage can pay off.

Haven't read the whole thread, sorry. Nissan still sales them for the fork lifts, same part but you'll need to bend the rod to match OE. Here's the p/n's

I just spoke to Eastside Nissan our Club sponsor and ordered: Head Bolts Turbo L28T 82ZXT 9 ea 11056-P7600 short 5 ea 11059-P7600 long 14 ea 11058-2100 washers quoted price of $91.92 (supposed to be 10% over dealer cost to club members). Should be here on Monday or Tuesday. MSA = $140 California Datsun $130

I use what most of the people use up there, just wanted to add; Permatex Anti-Sieze. Dow-Corning Telescopic Grease for brake caliper // pad parts https://www.acrossinternational.com/Dow-Corning-53-Oz-Colorless-High-Vacuum-Sealing-Grease-Tube-DowGrease53oz.htm Started using the DCTG after spending time restoring Honda SOHC4 brake calipers. http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,56544.50.html Gamma did some interesting research on the grease, and how it reacted to temperature in that thread. One tube lasts a long time.

I was un-aware they were cupped to start with! as you can imagine, I have quite a few laying around and none exhibit any cup-ish-ness. Can't imagine why they would want them to be cupped, I would think that would consume a good part of the torque you're putting on the bolts or some such. I'm confused. again....

Walt Maas, Laguna Seca - 1974

Congratulations to Chet. Can't wait to get to the track tomorrow. Car is cleaned up and ready to go.

I would think the old washers you have would last for all eternity. Unless you lost a couple of course.

Finally got around to placing the lettering labels on the radio faceplate. I think it looks much better than without it. It almost makes the Retrosound radio look stock. Here's a pic.

Update: Finally got around to swapping out the Momo for the Datsun Compe wheel. I love it! the feel and fit are perfect and it looks just right. Anyone interested in the Momo wheel?

Video here https://www.facebook.com/HSRrace/?fref=mentions

Some Z trivia for ya... Depends on the year. They changed how those vents worked on the later cars and they don't use that channel as an air duct anymore. 77 on, they pulled the fresh air from the cowl area instead of using those channels.

I have a crazy idea! When the gas gauge gets close to E, put more gas in the tank. Don't worry about the light that tells you the same thing. Sorry, couldn't resist. Now that I've had my fun at your expense, maybe there is a sender with that part in my collection. Somewhere.....

Video is nice, too.

I used ultra-power PS153; works like a charm, $3 bucks on rock auto. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Hate to badger you. But if you can put all of the small details together you'll have a better chance. Your problem is uncommon. Doubtful that anyone will have a "that happened to me" answer. You never know though. I'm going to guess that something has shorted in the voltmeter and and is somehow powering the pump power control relay and the Charge lamp. Not sure how that would actually work, it's a puzzle that my brain doesn't want to work on. Does the meter smell like burnt wires? Try unplugging the voltmeter. That might fix everything, except you won't have a meter or a Charge lamp. You'll have to take the meter out, it's pretty easy. It comes out from the back. Described in the FSM. If you have dexterous fingers you might get it unplugged with just removing the front panel.

UPDATE: I have been so busy with baseball I have not had a chance to post in a long while, but the transmission is cleaned up and ready to install. Ordered an new clutch and pressure plate. I may or may not change those though as I only have 3000 miles on my stock clutch. I will change out the throw out bearing though for sure.

Good stuff. I'm probably going with the ITM timing set on Rock Auto for &50. looks like U.S./Japan and European sources. I'm taking notes on this thread as its pertinent to my situation. Well in the next few months at least. I was curious as to what lube would be recommended for the timing set once installed. If anything other than oil.

I really dig the gold zinc and aluminum of the datsun world. Looks so cool.

I talked to Eddie Radatz. He says he has one. You can find his contact info at Z Parts Warehouse