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Hi just found thread, I bought car. Solid floors and rails. 2/70 man date. I did get a true find. Restoring for sure. # matching. Frank

Hi guys. I just wrote a dashboard repair guide for my website, ZCarGuide.com! Take a look and let me know what you think. https://zcarguide.com/repair-dashboard-datsun-z/ Thanks! Mark

If a real expert suggested you ditch the excellent stock air filter that brings in cooler denser air and replace with K&N filters that will now bring in hot air and a lot of fine sharp sand then maybe you should look for a more knowledgeable real expert. Yes K&N's are less restrictive but since the stock air filter has no problem supplying air in the first place, all you are really doing paying for something that will sand blast your upper engine. My apologies, K&N sand socks are a pet peeve of mine and I can never understand why they are so popular, good marketing I guess. Oh, and welcome to the forum.

As always - your car, your choices. Consider this in electing to ditch the factory air filter box: - you'll be giving up the factory designed air horns in the air filter box; - as you've stated, you're also giving up the natural connections for the flow guide valve and the valve cover hose. - the new valve cover filter will eventually saturate with oil vapor and drip onto the manifolds, then you have to add an unsightly catch can. The factory air filter box may not look sexy but it does a darn good job of what it was designed for. if you change your mind and keep it, block off the lower middle opening that connected to the air pump with a 1" rubber chair leg boot from a big box store. Been there, done that. Just my thoughts that you requested. Jim

Unfortunately, I have no place to put the car and I my wife would lose her mind if I dragged it home. I’m going to take everything I reasonably can. What is JSM? If anyone needs something specific let me know. Everyone has been so helpful on this forum and I’m happy to pay it forward and just change what the yard charges me. They have no clue about this car and I told the owner not to crush it and he seemed like he didn’t care. Here’s a pic.

NISMO video:

Actually the top image is not mine, just the plug style that I really liked, I have a early 260 so the fuel sender is similar to the 240. I have plenty of spades around, I’ll give it a try with the alternator plug cover. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Sounds like you nailed some of the issues that caused the PO to use the band-aid solution. If you address the rad and water pump you will have peace of mind. Also consider changing all rubber coolant hoses and inspect the throats where they attach (they can corrode).

Good for you man. Score!! I had a pretty good score last year as well. Picked up a running driving rust free series 1 240z. (Early 71) 12/70. Got it from a local tow yard for $500. Still can't believe it.

Not a simple question . It depends on extent of removal. It would be better if you could drill out the spot welds attaching support rails to floor- only where you are removing floor. Leave the ends attached to the tunnel and inner rocker so you have a guide for floor position

" sole remaining original BRE 240Z " What?! Is Carl Beck's car chopped liver? Anyhow, I'm glad to hear you all had so much fun. Glad to hear you had good weather! Sounds like this was a good Mitty (except for the VW guy, glad he's ok). Would have liked to have taken in the show at Randy Jaffe's car. Reminds me of "the good-old days", Randy. T h a t ' s racin'! Would have been nice to see John Morton again. Thanks for the pictures and conversation - great thread

This would suggest the door sills are parallel to the datum line. When you work on a frame rack. The rack can be assumed to be the datum line. So you measure to the rack. If your concrete floor is very flat you could use that. The floor in my shop is not that flat (>1/16"). Strings might work if they are tight enough not to sag. A nice long metal straight edge might be better. A piece of angle iron or tube stock. I have a laser level but I don't think I would trust it to be accurate enough for this kind of work...

The red and green wires go to the pickup coil in the distributor, not the ignition coil. You won't be using the red and green wires at all. You'll only be using the L and the BW wires. Blue, and Black with White Stripe.

Never mind. I see know you have the 280 version as ZKars mentioned earlier. This is all for my 240, sorry but I go straight to the last post most of the time. Life is short. Here's what I've been able to find on my laptop. Do you have the T looking connectors? That's what I put the female spade connectors on, for my 240. 280s are different. Top is the one I'm talking about. I had forgotten but I got the old dried up rubber boots back on mine too. The best picture I could find.

OK, I now have an update on the VIN. The seller finally heard back from the buyer of the car and sent me a text message stating that the VIN is HLS30-02434. I texted him back, thanking him and I also asked him if the buyer was from here in the metro Denver area, and he said yes. Do any of you members from the Denver area know who bought the car? Whoever purchased the car, I sure hope they restore it and not part it out.

The right question is... divorce or not divorce...