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Symptom of reaction disc falling out when changing master cylinder. Fairly common. Happened to me. Pull master and push rod. Fish out rubber disc and glue on to end of rod and reinstall rod and master.

I was waffling on a lot of things (paint myself? do the jambs? paint panels on or off the car?) and that indecision made it easy to just do little bits at a time so I wouldn't have to make those choices. Shooting the fenders and hood brought some clarity and has helped get things back on track. Finally feels like real progress is getting made. Last week I was hoping to paint the body. Figured the prep work was a two day project, but by the time day one was over, I was already a day behind That carried over to this weekend, and was further delayed by cold weather and rain, but I had enough blue sky by 2:00 on Sunday afternoon to shoot the epoxy. Whatever plan I thought I had for the first coat went out the window as soon as I started spraying. Easy to get ahead of yourself and start to rush. Second coat went better than the first. Just have the hatch, doors, and some of the little bits left to do, then I can move on to filler.

Not sure why from the factory the reaction disk is not better attached. I read the the FSM recommends a dab of grease to hold it on......no wonder it falls off so easily..... Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

These shocks came out of my 77 280Z. Comparing them with your units, they don't seem that bad.

Brake booster update. I dropped the booster at the repair/rebuild shop yesterday (Mon.). They are obviously a large player in a niche business. They supply new, and rebuild all types of car and commercial/industrial vehicle brake boosters, compressors and various related bits and pieces. There were no concerns on the part of the proprietor about the condition of the can, or rebuilding the unit. Easy deal. The rebuild should be compete by Thurs. (four work days). Once I retrieve the part, I'll follow up with my impression of the work and a couple of "after" photo's. If all's well, and at this point I have a high level of confidence it will be, I'll post the shops contact info, and the cost for my rebuild. Thanks again to all for your input.

Check the calipers. Make sure the bleed screws are at the top of the caliper. Sometimes people install them on the wrong side, and the bleed screws are down. That traps air to the point that it is difficult to impossible to purge.

My pleasure. Glad to help. So did you see the pic of the aftermath of the party? https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60026-friends-over-for-a-party-in-the-shop-yesterday/ So to provide a little more info about Matthew's bearings... The shop that had previously worked on the car really screwed things up. They had forced the spindle pin tapered retainer pins into place without having the spindle pin located properly. This not only ruined the taper pin, but raised a huge burr on the (brand new) spindle pin and we had to use the hydraulic press just to get the spindle pin out. And the problem that Matthew originally noticed when he got the parts back from the shop was that the stub axle didn't spin freely, and had significant tight and loose spots when it spun. We traced this issue to a huge burr kicked up inside the strut housing on the bearing surface from them pressing the bearing in cockked at an angle. In other words... It wasn't straight, wouldn't go in, and they just kept applying more force instead of stopping to figure out what the problem was. We dressed the upset material (high spots) off the inside of the strut housing and cleaned and inspected everything to make sure there weren't any other surprises. Once the burrs were removed, the new bearings went in fine and everything spun perfect. We dressed the burrs off the spindle pins, and after that, they went back into the housings OK as well. And if that's not enough... They had ground down one of his distance pieces on a belt sander. Not only was it not square on one end, but it was also now almost .100 too short. When you tightened the stub axle nut, it would pull the inner races together so tight that you couldn't turn the axle. And they're professionals!! I chucked up the distance piece in the lathe today and squared up the end. Won't ever be able to be reused for a distance piece, but it sure makes a handy drift for doing future wheel bearings. Into the box of misc stuff that lives next to the hydraulic press! It was a good day in the shop.

Back on track thanks to Captain Obvious and his buddy Gary. Thanks Bruce! —- We identified the problem(s). They had pressed the inner bearing in at an angle and then forced it down. This did some gnarly but repairable damage to the inside of the hub and is why the bearing was uneven and destroyed. They also screwed up my spindle pins and all the hardware that went with them. I have new hardware on the way. The spacers Jim K sent me were perfect and went right in. Everything is now back together (minus the drum brake backing plates) and ready to continue, but first I’m cleaning up my paint.

Me and the boys doing an engine pull...

Probably shouldn't have mentioned that. If you have issues elsewhere it might not work. But here's what I've done before. turn they key to on and make sure it's in neutral. Touch the two leads on the solenoid with a screwdriver. It'll arch and scare you when it does but it should force the starter to spin. Have you tried pushing or pulling it in gear as another way to start?

original 175SR14

Hello, I am still looking for original 175SR14 for my March 1970 240Z. Here are very good photos of "bridgestone super speed radial 20 -175SR14" by 26th-Z kindly allow me to post these for my "wanted"thread. If someone can sell this tyre for me,please let me know. And if someone wants bridgestone 6.45-14 skyway-H, I can sell NOS 4 tyres.I have 8 of them,4 are installed now. Thank you, kats

From post #9 - "The guy I bought it from did say he took out the dash and “fixed it” . Did you remove the dash or did you buy a car with the dash removed? Did the car run fine for you or the other guy? Not really clear what's going on.