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Ill do as Paul Mcartney wrote in one of abbey road's songs "step on the gas and wipe that tear away......."

@jalexquijano Try some different weight oils in the carbs. It would be an easy, fun experiment. (until one drops a piston or dome, VOE, be careful) I ran Marvel Mystery Oil in mine for a few years and then switched to ATF. Both worked fine with no noticeable difference in performance. Try a light weight oil as well as a heavy weight and tell us what you find. Jalex deserves the credit. He tried to solve this problem for quite a while (possibly from day one) and never threw in the towel. My small part in this was to keep Jalex FOCUSED on what WE theorized was a float level problem. I don't think any of us are totally convinced that Jalex's floats are absolutely correct but they must be close. Jalex asked a question earlier and knows these carbs well enough now ☺️ that he and I are curious what effect raising the floats 1 mm and raising the nozzles 1 turn (1 mm, 2 1/2 turns down) would have. I don't know for sure. I believe the nozzles are around 3 1/2 turns down at this time. Opinions and theories are welcome from all.

First - a BIG WELCOME to the group. If you have not already figured it out, we're all a bunch of dedicated and sometimes crazy Z enthusiasts who are always looking for someone new to play with. From the few pics you supplied, your car looks to be uncared for but pretty well unmolested - that's great. You can expect to get solicited and sometimes unsolicited advice as in my comments below. Bag and tag EVERYTHING as soon as it comes off the car. Don't wait till later, you'll forget some details. Be specific - sometimes a single bolt or screw needs it own bag and tag. Markers can rub off of zip bags, use paper notes inside the bag. Discard nothing until the replacement is installed and working OK Keep a running list of things to be replaced while you are pulling those things off, again - don't wait to write it down. Why is all this important? I tore my car down in 1999 intending to do a full resto but did all of the above during the process. Life chose to intervene and it was 10 years later that I was able to pick up the project. Fortunately my well documented zip bag collection and list of needs paid off big time. P.S. - I spotted a bunch of OE hose clamps in your engine bay. Treat them gently and plan to re-use them. They're highly desired and a darn sight better looking than most aftermarket clamps. Good luck with your project.

The bumper is $230, shipping $120, PayPal fee $17, for a total of $367. The shipping time was estimated at ~10 days to delivery. WAAAAHHHHHH - I hate waiting, I want it NOW!

MY1PATH.....I assure you that your SU’s are adequate to supply your motor build. I run them on my Datsun Spirit Stroker Stage III motor with no problems throughout the power ban. I would not be so sure that carbs are your problem. I just fixed a high speed bog problem with new plugs (who would have thunk it?) I tried everything first.....points, condenser, tuned carbs etc. A new set of plugs and she kicks it again! Sometimes the little caps on your spark plugs can loosen causing a high rpm miss, or a cracked distributor cap or rotor. A vacuum leak can make it miss and run lean also. On a modified engine, you should probably be 3 1/2 turns down. It’s fun when you solve a problem......good luck.

Sounds like an annoying issue, and I agree with your thoughts that it sure sounds like you're sucking the bowls dry. First thing I would do is try to confirm that's what is going on. Assuming you don't have the early carbs with the bowl drain holes,... I would let the engine idle for a minute or so to make sure everything was stable. Then shut off the engine and drain each bowl into some sort of small graduated container, and measure how much fuel was in each one. Then I would make your WOT run until your O2 sensor went lean and then quickly kill the motor (coast to a stop) and then do the same fuel volume measurement again. In theory, if your fuel supply system was able to keep up under high load conditions, you should have about the same amount of fuel as when you tested it at idle. If you get very little out of the bowls, then you have at confirmed the root problem of fuel starvation. You could do the same kind of test with the clear tube "Teed" into the bowl outlet, but I'm not sure I'd want to go driving around like that . Other thoughts? I once had similar problems, and traced it to debris partially clogging the needle valve. I was running from a small engine compartment fuel source and I was frequently wiping it clean and dry with paper towels. I was not running any banjo filters either, and the fibers from the paper towels were building up at the needle valve until they created restrictions. I know you said you checked your needle valves, but thought I would throw that out there anyway. And lastly, I don't think it has anything to do with a washer under the suction piston spring.

3.75 front and 3.65 rear carb. I guess that in order to set it both carbs to 2.5 turns i will need to close the gap between the float and the float lid more. Just if one is obessed with the 2.5 turns clockwise i guess. Car is running fine. Now i neee to deal with plug number 4 which has always been the problem and trying the car at long idle time during traffic

With a little dust they go for $75k to 100k in Japan. Kats I'll buy it and ship it if you can sell it? We split the profits 50/50

I agree, enjoy the car now that YOU have set the float levels (with Marks help-THANK YOU MARK). If you look for problems they'll show up, real and imagined. I can't remember what oil you're using in the SUs but I'm thinking in a hot climate one is the best. Don't know but I'm hoping someone can tell you. Maybe ATF would be be best? But I haven't a clue. I run the 20 weight 3in 1.

Huh? And where are you going to live then? Nice CAR !! ? EDIT... AHAAH! Buying new home for the wife THE Z-CAR!! AND NEVER SELL IT!!!!