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[emoji3][emoji6] Yes sir! Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

If the compression is good in #4 (as I recall, it is) and it's getting a decent quantity of fuel, (it is) the gremlin in #4 has to lie in the dist. cap, rotor, plug wire or plug. Multiple plugs have fouled so it has to be in the cap, rotor or plug wire. @jalexquijano What brand cap and rotor are you running? We changed my son's RX7 cheap replacement cap and rotor (the old ones still looked? good) to Bosch parts. Instant improvement in performance and it helped the original 12A thru another DEQ inspection in Oregon. The one thing I did notice when installing the rotor was the precision fit as compared to the old one. Not one degree of sloppy fit. Something to consider.

Cliff!!! I never knew that about you... ?

I'll be replacing all of the lights in my (aftermarket) gauges next weekend with LEDs. Since they're solid state they will definitely last longer than incandescent. That isn't to say they never fail- manufacturing quality is a major factor. I've heard good things about Samsung LEDs, but off-brand is a crap shoot.

If the stroke is stock L24 then you have a 2.4 liter engine. Not stroked, not 3.0. Not sure who Darcy is or why they are telling you it's a "stroker". If the valves were going to hit the cylinder walls they would have done so already. You're probably fine. L24 with N42 head. Make sure that your exhaust manifold doesn't block the N42 ports. On the other hand though, since you have somebody telling you it's a "3.0 stroker" and it's obviously not, it could be just a bunch of parts thrown together. Check the wipe pattern of the lobe on the rocker arm pads. Check head bolt torques and other critical things, to be sure it's actually a ready-to-run engine.

Beware Chinese crap listed under another country of origin: Most goods subject to antidumping and countervailing duties AD/CVD orders are from China, and fraudsters in Southeast Asia have developed a cottage industry for diverting and fraudulently claiming the country of origin of Chinese AD/CVD subject goods. The U.S. Department of Justice and European Union Anti-Fraud Office have investigated and identified widespread transshipping schemes operating semi-openly in China and Southeast Asia. Companies posing as “logistics” companies in China have openly advertised and solicited Western purchasers by proclaiming that they can utilize transshipping fraud through Southeast Asia to import goods without the need to pay AD/CV duties. These operations are often headquartered in China, with sham factories in Southeast Asian countries that serve as nothing more than an address to claim as the place of origin for transshipped Chinese goods. The European Anti-Fraud Office has identified Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia, Philippines, India, Vietnam, and Taiwan as major transshipping fraud hubs. There have also been recent reports alleging transshipping schemes using Mexico as an intermediary destination for goods traveling from China to the U.S.

As long as you right sliders for the chassis, all the sliders fit all the seats. 240, 280 75-76 and 77-78 seats rails differ in how they mount to the floor, but all mount to the seats in the same way.

MY1PATH.....I assure you that your SU’s are adequate to supply your motor build. I run them on my Datsun Spirit Stroker Stage III motor with no problems throughout the power ban. I would not be so sure that carbs are your problem. I just fixed a high speed bog problem with new plugs (who would have thunk it?) I tried everything first.....points, condenser, tuned carbs etc. A new set of plugs and she kicks it again! Sometimes the little caps on your spark plugs can loosen causing a high rpm miss, or a cracked distributor cap or rotor. A vacuum leak can make it miss and run lean also. On a modified engine, you should probably be 3 1/2 turns down. It’s fun when you solve a problem......good luck.

Thanks! Here's a few pics of how it was until a few months ago. You don't know it, but I think we have at least a couple things in common. I decided to go with a stage 4 STD motor with Eiji at DSI. It's all finished now and sitting in his shop. But we're waiting on a crate from Japan full of SS exhaust goodies, and for a hot-off-the-press Jenvey manifold for their ITB's. I decided to really clean up the engine bay while I'm waiting for all the excitement to be ready. Compression ratio is 11.4:1, with LD28 and all his head and block work. I see that you just got a motor together with him as well. I was watching your recent thread with interest, learning what I could about various related. I see too that you appreciate the NSX

I agree with all that has been said so far about focusing on those things that will improve the basic operation of the car. Suspension, electrical, etc are all candidates and you should be able to figure out the priority once you get the vehicle and have some time with it. A quick comment on the rear brake upgrade that you are considering. I just competed a 4 wheel upgrade using the Arizona Z kit. It is very high quality and even though I thought the OEM brakes were more than sufficient, the stopping power I have now is definitely a cut above OEM. Probably was not a necessity for me as most of my driving is street oriented (albeit spirited at that), but I do like having the improved braking capability. However, this upgrade was not without its challenges. First, if you go with the discs on the rear, you will likely lose the hand brake capability that you have now. This is somewhat dependent on the setup that you use, but for sure the Arizona Z kit does away with the OEM hand brake setup. However Dave from Arizona Z does sell a nicely designed "mechanical" caliper and also provides the brackets to mount it, but the installation of the cable and other hardware necessary to make it work will essentially be up to you. I ended up having to design some custom brackets for an aftermarket Lokar universal hand brake cable and it was a very elegant design in the end, but I had to figure this all out myself. On top of that, you will also need to change your proportioning valve so as to get the correct bias between front and rear. The stock valve is attached to the firewall near the booster, but it is fixed. You will need to either replace the OEM one or augment it with an adjustable one. The Arizona Z kit does come with a nice Wilwood valve but it is big and bulky and you have to find a place to mount it as well. I ended up going a different route with a much smaller valve but it required the fabrication of a few brake lines and some other bracket design work. Should you decide to go this route in the future, I'd be happy to post some pictures and provide more details on exactly what I did to make this work, but it is not as simple as just bolting on a set of calipers in the rear, and "you're done". Hope that helps. Mike.

Kats, I’m going to reference some of your earlier threads so that everyone knows the history behind this conversation. These threads discuss the ink and paint date stamps on specific parts. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21432&highlight=date+stamp http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16870&highlight=date+stamp And this thread discusses what cars and how many were produced in 1969 – early 1970. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7801 I’m glad to see you back with pictures and information, Kats. Your new toy looks great and I hope you bring it to Florida!