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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/23/2018 in all areas
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SS Bumpers from Vietnam
4 pointsI'm declaring success! Here are my before and after pics. I've had the painted bumpers on for 7 years so it's going to be an adjustment to now seeing a bright finish. Overall, the fitment went very well. The arc on the center section is a perfect match with the rear valance. The body mount on the left end was welded a bit rearward but the bracket was easily adjusted. Here are significant things to note: The threaded fittings are all M10-1.5, a more coarse thread than OE. New bolts and nuts are required. The threaded fittings all have paint on them, need to cleaned and chased with tap and die. The carriage bolt kit does not contain lock washers. I'll give the vendor some feedback on that. Next up is installing my JDM front bumper to complete the transition to "Oh, Shiney"!4 points
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[2018] What Did You Do To/with Your Z Today?
Finally got my car off the jack stands and out of the garage last weekend. Here are a couple of pics from my first drive of 2018.3 points
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Series 1 emblems
3 pointsWhat does the back side of the emblem on the right look like? It is solid or hollow? I'm reattaching the photos from posts #33 and #52 in the thread I linked to to show what the solid cast backs look like. The solid ones are the earliest used on the HLS30s. The second version of the emblem still had the chrome Z, but it was hollow cast in the back. Any HLS30 produced in 1969 would have come with the chrome Z emblems, and most likely the solid cast version. No one knows exactly how many of each version were made, but I would say at least 500 sets of the solid back emblems and probably another 1000 or more sets of the later hollow back emblems. Also keep in mind that the JDM market cars (S30s) had a different quarter panel emblem and more of them were produced in 1969 than the export HLS30s, so to say you have an emblem from one of the first cars made is relative.3 points
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Captain Obvious is a Genius!
2 pointsThanks Bruce for the clever trick of using rubber around an SU needle to gently hold it in a vise to remove (when stuck)!!! Worked like a charm... I just used the fuel hose as the rubber buffer. @Captain Obvious2 points
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SS Bumpers from Vietnam
2 points
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Discussion on idea for "air horn" fix
Update, heres what I have conceived..... Hammering on a buck with heavier guage would suck so im bent the contour into some straight stock and ill do reliefs to follow the contour and then dress the seams with some welding. Where it make drastic direction Change on the right ill start with a fresh peice with a custom shoulder in it. Once I sew it up and grinder it will appear almost as stock aside from the square corner at the bottom where it ties into the wheel well. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk2 points
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New Find.70 240Z
2 points
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Threaded holes behind doors
2 points
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saturday night music thread
1 pointShine on you crazy diamond is one of the all time best songs ever. I read that whole story about the one that went off the rails. Sad story but showed me mental health has no boundaries. I think I have problems. Bullshit! I got it made being involved with all you guys/girls and a "hovering Mom.1 point
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Carcapsule
1 pointHoly cow that is a lot of water. My tank is only about 16oz. You might have more hummidty than we get though.1 point
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Carcapsule
1 pointIt’s got a small tank in it. I empty it every few days. Should be less now. It does have an auto shut off feature too. First heavy rain storm nice and dry.1 point
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saturday night music thread
1 point1 point
- Oil leak near rear crank seal, but not rear crank seal
1 point- [2018] What Did You Do To/with Your Z Today?
1 point- Oil leak near rear crank seal, but not rear crank seal
I'd be happy to have that Nissan part number. I don't want to do this again anytime soon. Our basement has that transmission fluid aroma my wife is not so fond of.1 point- Carcapsule
1 point- Threaded holes behind doors
1 pointI saw this come up on social media and thought it would be appropriate to document here. The question was asked "Okay; I try to search through posts and comments to find my answers; but I've tried to find this.... can anyone tell me what the four threaded holes are designed for on the inner quarter, right behind the door opening?" Answer from @HS30-H, "Nothing to do with harness bars or harness attachments. They are the side mount hard points for the factory 'Safety Bar'/roll-over bar kit." Photo of the holes: And a pic showing the mount in use as intended:1 point- [2018] What Did You Do To/with Your Z Today?
This week I also got out to the BCZR 3rd Thursday Meet. We had a great turnout, over a dozen S30's made it.1 point- Just what the Doctor ordered. 1977 280z
Yep, The rear deck and your fuel pressue regulator valve FPR is early model. Both changed in july 1977. I started a thread on these differences over the years, but there is somethinv wrong with it and it opens all wierd and photo's all ovef the place. I will start a new one and post all I have on that one. Im on my tablet so don't have many photo's, but here are the two fpr's Early (before August) has two inlets and one outlet with 90 degree bend. Late (August 1977 onwards) has one inlet and one outlet with 90 degree bend The dates with these changes are not hard just like the 240Z changes. They seemed to change a lot of little things in the July / August period.1 point- Is it weird when the person selling a ZX thinks it's a Z?
You see that in craigslist ads that feel like the car’s sat in the yard for so long, no one’s exactly sure what it is or why it’s there. It’s like the ZX designation was just a trim option or something ... Here’s another one that gets to me ?1 point- Discussion on idea for "air horn" fix
Nicely Done. Elegant solution just be sure to test fit the fender over it before welding the repair, there are a few places where the clearance is fairly tight between those two pieces.1 point- Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build
1 pointI tore a seal on the shaft of the fuel pump. The one that keeps gas from going in the head in case of an rip and keeps oil from the engine bay out of the fuel pump. Someone said the GMB 550-8040 was exactly the same inside. That isn’t true but it’s close. Their seal is actually a better design and works and should function perfectly. So now 3 fuel pumps to make one nikki pump. Still I’m below 100$ total into the project. She looks amazing.1 point- Just what the Doctor ordered. 1977 280z
I measured the overall height at about 21.5 inches (+/- .25 inch for parallax error). I uploaded a couple pics. Measuring the height: Here it is snug as a bug in the back of my 77: And (as embarrassing as it is...) here's a pic of it on the car when I did a short test run to make sure it actually worked:1 point- Just what the Doctor ordered. 1977 280z
Here's one I printed out for my 78 on a plotter I was working on a while back. Its a work of art, but at 10' long, its too big to fit on any wall.1 point- Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build
1 pointSo working on my air cleaner. I want to powder coat it. I ordered every single orange I could find from prismatic powders. Like 30 shades. Hemi orange is almost correct or flag orange. Both are super close. Hemi matches the older paint, then flag is closer on the inside areas, I will go with flag.1 point - Oil leak near rear crank seal, but not rear crank seal
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