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Transition complete - we be shiny at both ends now . That's my killer deal NOS JDM unit on the front that I stumbled across locally a couple of years ago. It had been in a guy's garage attic for over 35 years (still in factory pkg.) and I just happened to spot his CL ad. Yes, its a chrome unit but it will take a sharp eye to distinguish it from the SS unit on the rear. BTW - I paint the license brackets black to avoid a Ollie-the-dragon snaggletooth look - from farther away they disappear into the grill.

I'm ready to bet that any of you have a plastic tote in the garage full of old cordless tools collecting dust...do I get an Amman? Lately I needed an angle drill...and the only one I found in my storage is an old craftsman...the batteries died many years ago and I could find no batteries for it so I did some digging and found that there is a product called "usb adapter" for all major modern tool batteries (Milwaukee m18 in my case) but they also available for makita, dewalt ect...for well under $15. Originally its intended as an adapter that you can charge your cell phone off your tool batteries ....however it also makes a perfect platform for re powering just about anything cordless. The process is stupid simple, take apart the old battery , discard the contents and the bottom housing, take apart the usb adapter, you will need to perform 2 functions 1, Solder 2 wires from the old battery connections to the usb adapter (I use a deans connector rated at 30 amp but that is optional. 2. attach the top of the usb adapter to the old battery top using some screws. reattach the bottom of the adapter to the top section. Viola...Yah got a working tool!, if you lost the attachment points between the original battery and the tool feel free to use a screw to fix it, the battery no longer needs to be removed from the tool. It worked so well...I ordered more (ebay, search for whatever brand you battery you do have, such as M18 USB) and brought back to life all kinds of old junk. A word on rated voltage, for example, you have an old 9.6 or 12V tool, will it work on 18V? in my experience absolutely! A dc motor is a dc motor, the more voltage you give it..the faster it will spin and the more power it will produce....look at it this way, what do you have to loose? worst case scenario you will burn out the motor (on a tool that is practically useless), remove the usb adapter and move it to another tool, zero loss. Happy trails!

LOL! You guys are the best!

Actual testing would be awesome. I'm just operating off anecdotal and uncontrolled data. When I get a chance, I'll try to whip up a sketch or two showing why I contend the CV carbs would be less finicky than other designs.

Does anyone know what the correct spark plug wires should be on a 1970 432? Or a contact that would know. Ours currently has some aftermarket ones that are bright blue and do not appear period correct. This car is pretty much perfect besides the wrong spark plug wires. Chassis PS30-00092 Thanks, Justin

I like electrical cords hanging off my power tools

Oh well .....just mounted a new cheap muffler today until I get my system from Japan(Trust twin Pipes and twin Stack tips Exhaust System). Surprisingly this ebay muffler sounds good.

Did a few things this evening after work: Drained the gas tank...looks like a nice dark ale. Vintage 2007. Removed carpets, removed the the tar barrier from the floor pans, vacuumed the interior and test fitted a BMW seat.... comfy! Looked at the past good old days before 2006 turned my life upside down. Good ol' Blue

The original plug HT leads were individual part numbers 22451-A0203 (plug no.1) through 22456-A0203 (plug no.6) and they came ready to fit with both ends complete and including the boots for the distributor end, the long plug connectors and the rubber seals that go into the cam cover. They were individually numbered for each plug, also dated, and with makers name SUMITOMO, all printed in yellow on black wires. The long HT lead from the coil to the distributor cap was part number 22450-E4200. Here are some (not very good...) photos which might give you an inkling of what they looked like: If you're chasing factory period-correct original you've got your work cut out. The ignition system is a recent (Ultra?) system, you need a cloth-covered top hose and the Tsuchiya service sticker for the air filter should be on the top of the air filter box itself (in front of the radiator) not on the duct. Couple or three non-factory drilled holes there too (annoying, isn't it!?). All an easy fix, apart from the holes - and I'd just stick grommets in them and not worry. You might be able to get the correct leads from REVIVE JALOPY or RUBBER SOUL in Japan. If they can't supply the correct, Sumitomo printed, version they should be able to supply a decent replica in black, which will certainly be far more pleasing to the eye than blue or red.

I wish someone would reproduce the stampings for the battery tray area!

I ended up with a champion 2 row, I built a shroud for it, and have two electrical fans, with both of them on the temperature sits right around 185*. I use distilled water and some GE green coolant. When I go through the electrical system again, I’m going to wire in my temp-ground switch to only have 1 fan on constant, 2nd if it gets over 190* Oh I used some grommets to separate the body from the rad, I was reading that these alloy rads don’t like to flex. No issues so far. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Here's my side-by-side pic of my old fuse box next to the MSA long-tail replacement. As best as I can make out, the label on the white wire with the male bullet connector reads "horn".

Thanks for posting the 2 pictures, Jerry. You make a good point about this car, it may have its original paint, but it's not a solid survivor and the multiple rust issues have to be addressed. It's a shame about the issues, but it is still a good candidate for a full restoration.

Grinder monkeys driving Ubers! I'm glad I'm on the last half of my book of life. (embarrassed but) I just gave my dog a bowl of beer. Everytime i spill some he licks a cleaner spot of the carpet so I poured him a half a can in a bowl. I got some good news today and felt like sharing because it'll affect him too. We're getting a new HVAC system! Its hotter than 3 feet up a goats arse down here.

I would keep the original paint and thoroughly clean the car inside and out. I would then have a pro adjust the passenger door/ right front fender fit issues, remove the glue from the black 240Z stripes on both side, have paintless dent repair done, buff-out the paint, replace the front bumper and hood emblem with good used ones. Series I and II 240Zs with original paint are just too hard to find and that is the very reason that the seller is asking $20k or best offer for the car.

Wait... I got an idea. How about we get a monkey to sit in the driver's seat of one of those driverless cars? That would work, right? Can monkeys use smart phones?

I've got the steel or chrome sided one from Nissan part number in my 240 file. The dealerships still can get them if you want it. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/59544-intakeexhaust-manifold-gasket/?do=findComment&comment=542398

That part of the HVAC system was evolving and changing a lot through those years. I think factory installed A/C started in 74 with the 260, and in that year they had the fresh air floor vent pull knobs on both sides. They pulled the air in at the front of the fender frame channels through those plastic ducts on both sides. Sounds like 75 and early 76 had the accordion vent and fresh air floor vent on just the passenger side. They still pulled air in through the right side frame channel, but only the right side. For 77, they had redesigned much of the sheet metal, including the frame channels and the cowl area where the windshield wiper motor lives. So for 77, they went back to fresh air pull knobbies on both sides, but they pulled the air from inside the cowl area instead of through the frame channels. Just another reason why the 77 is the best year.

that is exactly why I popped for the bolt buster induction heater. With out that I would try welding a nut on with a mig welder, that should get it hot enough break the corrosion bond. I am going to be fighting a broken bolt (front bolt that holds the FI metal hard lines in place) that happened before the bolt buster. Got a mig welder now so will try it out.

Cliff, in your case you got it better yet, they have adapters that are plug and play to convert the new Li lo 20v to old(er) dewalt tools https://www.ebay.com/itm/DCA1820-20V-To-18V-Battery-Converter-Adapter-For-Dewalt-Cordless-Power-Tool-HS/112963406385?epid=3018615709&hash=item1a4d24ca31:g:n3AAAOSw6sRa4o00 The batteries are cheap too...you can get knock offs for around $20-30 each shipped. they do work, the case material may not be to OEM spec but they do use good cells, head over heals better then the older nimh crap.

Right you are....at the corner of N.Druid Hills Road and the Buford Highway. I spent a lot of time there back in the 70’s. Not sure if Nick is still there, but it’s a must place to go!

Damn Guy, you got those wheels turning that have been on lockdown since 2006!

Been there many times. Has a bar b que shaped like a revolver in front. Cannonball Run.